TH18TL-P1301701WL Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

I did a few tests with the old ice maker and determined that it was the ice maker itself that was faulty. The replacement part I ordered exceeded my expectations in the time it took to get the part. I reused the arm, wire harness and clamps from the old icemaker. Then it was a simple install into the bottom freezer compartment, turning on the water supply and bingo...lots of ice cubes.

It was a complete mess and a failure. There were no in structions with the gaskets except warming them in water to streatch them. Nothing with a photo of what the gasket looks like as it is being installed or after installation. I am still not convinced they are the correct gaskets for the model. It was a total waste of time and $130.00 to try to replace the gaskets. In the end, I determined that it would be cheaper in the long run to buy a used refrigerator than to mess with the gaskets.

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

Removed screw under ice maker. Tilted ice maker up to remove unit from upper two screws. Disconnected plug at rear of freezer. Attached wiring harness, baler arm and cover from old to new ice maker. Reinstalled in reverse order. Had ice within one hour. Very easy fix.

I simply removed the old switch using 2 small screwdrivers and the old switch case popped out. I then upluged the wires from the old switch and reversed the process. Didn't take longer than 5 minutes begining to end! Thank you for the great service! Duncan quaid

I first loosened all screws that are hidden by seal leading edge. I then removed seal. I made sure that I knew which side of seal was to be in contact with refrigerator door frame to provide the seal. I positioned the seal on the door inner panel starting at the top. After I had finished positioning the top I proceeded to position both sides and then the bottom. I tightened the screws only enough to hold the seal in position. After I had the seal in the proper position I tightened the screws that hold the seal in position. I used a hair dryer to heat seal and smooth out the the sealing edge.

Replaced refrigerator cooling control. No luck. Replaced freezer cooling control. No luck. Coils were icing up. Unplugged frig and allowed coils to defrost. After more poking around, found that condenser fan was not spinning. Touch it and it'd start. That was definitely in need of replacement. Replacement was easy. Refrigerator is now running as it should.

Unscrewed the old handles and replaced the new handles with the same screws... that easy! It was the easiest repair that I ever had to do.

Removed the 2 screws holding the light bulb shield, then the 4 uolding the metal panel. Unplugged the olw door switch and replaced.
reassembled the pieces.

The Ice maker unit had to be removed and the shaft had to also be removed, which required dis-assembling the motor drive. The thickness of the shaft and the bearing fill cup prevents it from simply pushing it in place. Other than that I have Ice.

1. Removed the icemaker door
2. Removed the two screws from the underside of the icemaker unit
3. Removed the slide-on plastic cover that protects the power cable connector
4. Removed the icemaker unit
5. Removed the two screws from the control unit
6. Pulled the control unit from the icemaker unit
7. Installed the new control unit and reinstalled the icemaker assembly

A repairman wanted to charge me $250 to do what I did in about 20 minutes for about $120.

First shut off water supply and unplug power. Unscrew icemaker assembly from side wall with 3 screws. Remove front cap and you can clearly see module. Unscrew and remove module ( only three screws). Install new module and revers procedure to finish up. Ice was ready in just a few hours. Video provided by this site was right on and left no questions.

I removed all the screws except the top screws. These screws I loosed to make sure the door shelves remained in place. I did not want to remove the refrigerator door. I had read this method on PartSelect. It worked fine. I would recommend a power drill because of the number of screws supporting the door shelves; a power drill really help.

Please note there are only 3 sides of the "new" door gasket that are magnetized. It would have been nice to identify which are the magnetized sides before I did the installation; I guess I should have read the directions before hand.

It was an easy job.

1. Turn your water OFF and pull the refrigerator out from the wall so you can access the back.
2. Use pliers to remove tubing clamp.
3. Remove old water fill tube.
4. I used a putty knife to gently pry out the old fill tube from the back of the refrigerator. Once the fill tube pulls out about 1/4 to 1/2", then you can gently pull the remainder of the tube out by hand. Once I removed my "old" fill tube, that is when I saw the "ice plug" that was causing pressure in the water supply line and caused my water line to pop off.
5. Install new fill tube. The end that goes in first needs to go through a small "ring" inside the freezer (this "ring" is not encountered until the fill tube only has about one more inch to be inserted into the back of the refigerator. I could barely see this "ring" if I opened the freezer drawer and stuck my head in as far as I could. I had to gently rotate the new fill tube until it cleared the "ring". You will feel some resistance until it lines up properly.
6. Snugly push in the part that stays on the outside of the refrigerator until it looks like it is sealed.
7. Gently push up the water fill tube where it belongs in the new part and replace the tubing clamp.
8. Turn your water on and make sure there are no leaks (I left my refrigerator out for about an hour).
9. Push your refrigerator back in place.

simpley place the support into slot provided.