TR25S5-P1196401WL Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

bulbs were not burnt out. received the new switch in a few days. watch the short video, was good to see how it comes out. used a putty knife to release the defective switch, removed wires put them on the new one and posed the new switch back in. Not bad Part cost $11.00 7 dollars shipping so for 17 bucks it works great. nice to see what is inside the refer!

Removed the 6 screws that held the panel up, pulled the panel down. Removed the wires on the old switch. Pulled out the old switch, and pushed the new one back in place. Attached the 2 wires, pushed panel back into place and installed the 6 screws. Pluged back in and light works every time the door is opened now.

I removed the nuts that held the motor mount, then removed fan blade, cut the wires, and slid the motor pass the mounts and the coil shroud, Installed motor in reverse order. worked out ok.

removed lower back cover. diconnected fan ass'y electrical connection, removed fan housing (3 screws). removed fan motor from housing. cut old connector from fan and installed on new fan with wire nuts included. re-installed new fan to housing and re-installed housing to frame.

The instruction sheet supplied with the new motor described the steps to take very good. Replaced the rubber grommets for the three motor mounts also. A flashlight or light source was needed or was very helpful.

Ordered new fan motor on line took out old motor and replaced with new one

Partition between Freezer and Fridge was running very hot. (Warm is normal). Oiling fan did not work. The only problems encountered in the replacement were getting fan out and in through coolant lines, cut plug off to accomodate generic fan wiring, getting the screws back in without cooking your hand on a hot compressor. Unit works great!

removed crisper drawers, then food items from shelf above, then replaced support post and replaced drawers and food items from shelf

I was changing a defective bulb and somehow the hot lead for the socket got grounded, and arched. This made the socket defective. I simply took out the defective socket and replaced it with the new one I ordered. Working fine now. PCH

I removed two screws holding the assembly. removed the assembly then toke the roller and bracket out of the houseing and replaced with new part. reverse the procedure for installation.

Very easy to do -- removed a screw - pulled the broken center rail away and replaced with new one -- realigned the humidity control band - installed the new roller on the rail -- reassembled the unit and done!

Note to those ordering new rollers. The mounting screw for the roller is not in the bag -- apparently it's ordered separately -- very strange -- seems like they should come together.

Removed rear cover to see non-operating fan - removed three mounting screws on the motor that were a challenge to access. Swapped fan from old motor onto new motor - one threaded nut on the motor shaft. Spliced new fan wires into fan wires of the wiring harness and mounted with three self-tapping screws supplied with new fan motor. Replaced rear cover and plugged it in! Now the refrigerator cools like new (1981 model side-by-side Admiral)

The hardest part was taking out original light bulb because screws on shield where hard to unscrew after all this years . The old bulb vent out leaving neck in socket. It took narrow electrical pliers to get neck out .The generic appliance bulb did not fit and had aluminum neck ,not recommended for brass sockets in ovens.Putting new light bulb in was not the problem.

Pulled out the refrigerator and removed the two panels from the rear of the refrigerator. Removed the fan held in by four screws and unplugged the connector. Soldered on the original connector, installed the fan to the motor and re-installed the unit into the refrigerator. Then blew out and vaccumed the condenser coils.

Lifted both drawer runners removed the broken post, put new post in place. Job completed in lest than two min.