SRD20S4E-P1190801WE Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

As the prior stories mentioned, this was a fairly easy fix to a nagging problem. Heck, we almost bought a new refer over this, cuz the door would keep popping open.

Needed a screwdriver, and a 5/16" nut driver (mounted in elec. drill). Have two people for this one! Emptying the door would help out tons too. ('course, I didn't do that!)

With the door closed, remove the plastic cover on top by removing 1 phyllips screw. Then, using drill mounted 5/16" nut driver, remove 3 hinge screws. Remove hing by lifting up. Now, carefully open and remove the door. Here is where the 2nd person comes in. There are 2-3 1/4" screws (Must use a 1/4' NUT DRIVER, SOCKET OR MAGNETIC BIT HOLDER) on the bottom of the door to remove the broken plastic cam. Also, you must remove the bad cam from the bottom hinge using I believe the 1/4" nut driver.

Finally , one person lift the door while the other kneels on the floor to help giude the door back onto the bottom hing pin. Close the door, ensuring that the top of the doors are even, and secure the 3 top hinge screws. UR done!

Greg

turn off water and unplug fridge. remove ice maker bottom mounting screw. just loosen the 2 top mounting screws. unplug wire harness from back of fridge. remove old icemaker from freezer compartment. once removed, salvage square endcover and reinstall on new maker. unfasten wire harness from old maker and reinsatll on new one. reinsert thermal wire in new ice maker holding bracket. remove second wiring bracket and reinstall on new maker to hold remaining wires (not mentioned on "how to-" video). remove old ice maker on/off bale and reinstall on new one. remount new maker to top mounting screws, reinsert harness plug into fridge. replace bottom screw,

Repair Refrigerator Kick Plate Grill:
No tools were required. I removed old grill with hands. I attached two clips to new grill, and re-installed the new grill. (less than 5 minutes very easy)

Repair Crushed Ice Bucket:
You will need sockets or nut driver. Remove the Ice crusher dispenser and metal rod from the existing unit. You will then re-install with the new Ice Bucket. There were two scews that held the front cover. You will need to remove four screws to remove the ice crusher mechanism and re-install with new bucket. (10 minutes to replace)

Repair Ice Maker Assembly:
I removed the plastic cap on the top left edged of the ice maker. You will need to use your existing cap with the replacement unit. I then loosened the top two screws on the ice maker assembly. You do not need to remove the top two screws. There is one screw on the bottom that will need to be removed. This will allow you to get to the wiring harness. I pulled out the white tube that fills the ice maker with water. I then used a small bucket to pour existing water out of the ice maker. I used a small screw driver to depess the clip on the wiring harness. You can not pull out the wiring harnes unless the plastic clip is depressed. The new ice maker assembly did not have the same type of water line attachment. It looks like it is made for different assemblys. For my water tube, I noticed a notched area on the new unit that could be cut out to work like my existing unit did for the water line. I used a box knife to cut out the notched area. On the new water tray, there was a hole in the side that my existing unit did not have. It does not affect the installation of the water tube. I installed the new ice maker assembly by attaching the wiring harness. Installed the bottom screw using my original bracket instead of the new bracket that came with the new unit. Tightened the top screws and bottom screw. Attached the water tube to the ice maker assembly. Attached plastic cap between the refrigerator wall and left side of the ice maker assembly. (15 minutes)

Took the rear bottom panel loose , the ice maker and water dipenser valve is in the right corner. Turn off water line to the refrigerator , and also unplug the electric from the outlet. It is easier to take the ground wire loose from the valve bracket now , before taking valve out of the bracket. take the two water lines that run to the door and the ice maker loose, then remove the main inlet line. Once you have the water lines off, then you can remove both electrical plugs from the electric coils. The water lines that run to the door and the ice maker cant be confused , because they are two different sizes , so they will only fit the correct side. The electrical plugs are pretty simple as well as, the wires are the same color as the coils, so its fairly easy to see which one goes where. The replacement process is pretty self-explanitary , just reverse the order. Just as a hint of advice , have a sponge or mop ready to clean up the water that comes out of the lines when you remove them. I also changed the drum wheel in the front of the ice bin, this process is not easy if you let the blades and spacers fall apart , as they have to pretty much have to be in correct order , or your ice bin will not crush ice , and you could possibly bust the bin into pieces. The process is not really hard , just pay close attention to what is coming off from where!!! There are two bolt on the bottom of the front cover , take them loose and pull the cover forward from the bottom, then lift a little , should come off. Then the metal front cover should be exposed, ther are two bolts in it as well , remove them , and the front should be loose , this is when you hold the auger and keep an eye on the blades. There is also a nut , right in the center of the wheel you have to take loose , hold the auger then take the nut loose with a 1/2 in. wrench. Once you remove the nut the drum pulls right off the auger. When going back together , make sure the ice crusher blades all line up correctly , as the blades wont work at all . They have to slide back into the blade pivot bracket (slot made into the plastic bucket front). As I said before , be sure and pay close attention , and this process will go easily. The drum is marked front side , or this side out, be sure its installed correctly , as the ice will not feed right. The first cycle of the ice maker making ice will probably be only 1 or 2 cubes , but the second time around you will have a full set of 8 , the water lines get air in them while they are unhooked so you wont get a full cycle the first time.

Used a screw driver to pull old switch. Pulled one wire at a time, only two wires. After wires instlled to new switch push new one back in place where the old one was.

change light bulbs

Well folks I put up with an ice burg all summer when I really should have took the time to fix it. You know how it goes though. You get so busy you just put it off.
Well don't put this one off because this is just how easy it went.
I came home one evening and wanted to make a drink to relax but that big glob of ice was there waiting for me. I took a crewdriver and beat it down so I could pull the catch basin out. Having looked it over for a minute I grabed a nut driver and took three of the screws out that held it in. I unpluged the wire and bingo it was out. Maybe five min. had elasped.
After taking the unit out I notice how the non stick surface was coming off of the tray and that explains the black pieces that were getting into my ice.
Getting the model number off the back of the fridge and writing it down I went to my trusty lap top and did a quick search for a ice maker for my Jenn Air refrigeraton and blamo...! Part Select came up and I put the part number in their search engine and bingo again there it was, my part.
One quick order and in three days it was right there by my door when I got home.
Now i'm so excited. I went into the house and didn't even chage out of my dress clothes. Within five minutes it was in. Now I just had to wait for the timer to do it's thing and sure enough, I awoke the next morning to a whole tray of beautiful ice cubes. Wow no more ice burgs.
The moral of my story is I spent so much time hacking out that glob of ice and for fifteen minutes of my time, I could have been siping on cold ones by the pool but now old man winter is pressing down on me and I guess a lesson learned was a lesson earned. Fix it!

1 screw remove assembly. Unplug cable harness and remove old cover and wire arm. Replace cover and wire arm and attach wire harness on assembly end. Re attach using screw removed in first step. Plug in wire harness. Making ice within 30 minutes.

I did a few tests with the old ice maker and determined that it was the ice maker itself that was faulty. The replacement part I ordered exceeded my expectations in the time it took to get the part. I reused the arm, wire harness and clamps from the old icemaker. Then it was a simple install into the bottom freezer compartment, turning on the water supply and bingo...lots of ice cubes.

I simply removed the old switch using 2 small screwdrivers and the old switch case popped out. I then upluged the wires from the old switch and reversed the process. Didn't take longer than 5 minutes begining to end! Thank you for the great service! Duncan quaid

I unhooked the wire harness from the ref. and took out three screws and pulled the old unit out. I than changed a few parts from the old icemaker to the new and reattached the new ice maker to the ref. and plugged the wire back in. everything is working fine. No problems. Also I was very happy with the ordering process. Thank you!!

Removed screw under ice maker. Tilted ice maker up to remove unit from upper two screws. Disconnected plug at rear of freezer. Attached wiring harness, baler arm and cover from old to new ice maker. Reinstalled in reverse order. Had ice within one hour. Very easy fix.

valved water off
removed back panels from refrigerator
disconnected water supply line from solenoid
disconneceted outlet to ice maker
disconneceted outlet to water for the door
removed solenoid valve
replaced water line to the ice maker
installed new solenoid and reconnected water lines. Valved water on and pressure tested and put back panels back on. This is a very easy job and if you live in Tennessee your valve will eventually stop up. The first sign will be smaller ice cubes and then no ice cubes.

We came home from a long vacation to discover a warm refrigerator with its contents in various stages of decay.

Turning the freezer thermostat to its warmest setting then back to cold generated clicks, and after a few tries the compressor started and cooled the refrigerator to its normal cold temperatures. But… later the compressor again failed to start, and everything warmed back up again. With persistence and turning the thermostat up and down several times a day, we could keep the fridge cold.

It was time to order parts. We needed a new start relay and capacitor for the compressor. For our Amana ARB2214CW a start relay (WP12555902) and capacitor (WP65889-4) were listed on the first page of the Partselect parts list for my refrigerator. I ordered them, received them, removed the old capacitor and start relay (which rattled when shaken). and prepared to install my new parts. The new start relay did not match the old. The old start relay fit my wiring which had a single plug with two small female spade connectors in the plug. The new start relay required wiring with two separate female spade connectors; one the normal size and one larger. Phone calls to Partselect and to Westinghouse shed no light on the discrepancy. On the second page of the Partselect parts list was a combination of a start relay and a capacitor (W10613606) that matched my electrical connector. I could see the connection in the photograph. I ordered it and it fit. Easy peazy. That fixed the compressor start problem. Every time the freezer thermostat clicked on, the compressor started. Success.

But… from our troubleshooting we now had a thermometer the freezer, and it was obvious that the temperature difference between the cold point where the thermostat turned the compressor off and the warm point where the thermostat restarted the compressor was much too wide. In addition, the knob was hard to turn and was sticky as it turned. Oiling it fixed the sticky knob problem but not the wide temperature difference problem. I ordered a new freezer thermostat (WP67003000), received it, installed it, and all is now fine with my refrigerator. The new thermostat was physically a little different from the original, but it fit and worked.

I returned the first compressor start relay and capacitor and received a refund including the shipping charge.

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model