ABB1927VEB2 Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

Remove rail and removed broken black plastic spring mechanism with new one and then replace rail.

Removed the door and replaced the broken door closure bushing. I had courteous help and responce from Parts Select people. Excelent turn around time on parts delivery.

Easy fix, it's right in the back of the fridge under a cover that just clips in, a piece of foam, and two screws. The hardest part is getting the clips free without breaking them. After replacement it's silent instead of making a grinding noise regularly.

Removed the 2 screws holding the light bulb shield, then the 4 uolding the metal panel. Unplugged the olw door switch and replaced.
reassembled the pieces.

Pop off vent cover remove 2 screws removed cover housing and foam. Removed damper by unclipping tabs on left and right side of control lift up and out. Unplugged power wires reinstalled in reverse order.

Ordered new fan motor
Got part took fridge apart
Result was the motor was running
The fan blade had come off the motor
Replaced the motor anyway and reinstalled the fan, working well

Popped out with butter knife and unplugged 3 prong connector and reversed with anew switch.

But, unfortunately it got broken again exactly same way as before.
So, I ordered same switch again for 2nd time.

Maytag should recall that Rocker Switch and build with better materials.

I first removed the bottom shelf. Then I popped the rail in. It was pretty easy although I did have to use some force to fit it in. Ordering the part and doing it myself was a lot cheaper than calling the repair man.

went on this website to fine info ALWAYS GO TO TYE OF APP. FIRST THEN TYPE IN MODEL NUMBER...THAT WAY YOUR GOING TO GET THE INFO ONLY TO YOUR APP. then search under symptom .." DO LOTS OF READING HERE ",CLICK ON COSTUMER REPAIRS thats were i found additional info on my problem..now on to the fix.. it stands to reason that on my appy. anyways that if the to parts plug into each other then you should think smart and get both avoid the coming "i told you so, you should have ordered the other part to" didnt cost that much extra... word of advice here .. i have big hands so when " they say" to plug both together then plug into the compressor...DONT!!!! plug the start device in first then plug in capacitor... almost forgot!!!! make sure ALL ELECTRICAL PLUGS AND WIRES ARE CLEAN-NOT BURNT ECT... used a can of electric contact cleaner-NOT ON THE NEW PARTS JUST THE COMPRESSOR AND THE WIRE THAT PLUGS INTO THE CAPAC. .. its just that simple... you will have to let the app. run for at least 24-36 hrs. to get cool enough and stabilize. after that we had to readjust the temp settings a little bit no bigee enjoy!!!!!

I initially tested the heating element and defrost thermostat using an ohm meter. the defrost thermostat was incased in ice, so I replaced it first. The refridgerator worked for about a week and then froze up again. I then replaced the thermistor and the unit is working as designed.

My son (who does HVAC, but not appliance repair) did some investigating by taking front and back panels off and determined that the evaporator coil was freezing over because the defrost wire was not heating up. He and his girlfriend did some real-time internet searching for diagnostic info because NO control diagram was included with the refrigerator. He determined the problem was most likely the electronic control board. Ordered and installed a new board and the refrigerator is back to working fine. Took about 2 hours to diagnose the problem and 1/4 hour to actually install the control board. Kind of disappointing that this control board failed when the refrigerator was less that 4 years old.

Watched video. Unplugged refrigerator and popped out switch. In plugged connector and pushed switch in place. Plugged in refrigerator and the light worked

Failure detected as Damper Control at upper rear of compartment would continuously open/close, would never stay open or closed. Sometimes the main board would turn it off (maybe a low thermistor limit?), but it would stick open a bit, and keeping letting freezer air into fridge. Could have potentially been control board, but as it turns out after disassembly of the defective damper, the internal microswitch was stuck in the closed position so it wouldn't shut off the motor. Easy fix by gently pulling the cover off the damper control, pull out Styrofoam encasement, then a phillips to remove the damper assembly. Gently push tabs to release wire connectors. Reverse the process and you're done! If I really wanted to go on the cheap, I could have just changed the microswitch, but that looked like a shaky maneuver at best. This site saved me on this one, so happy to share my experience with this Maytag and its nasty habit of freezing my milk and eggs!! :)

Popped off the control panel at the top behind the door. Found the thermistor and replaced it, cutting the wires and splicing the new one in. Immediately the warm section of the refrigerator was getting below freezing temperature readings, so the cooling vent was not opening. I put the old one back on and the temperature readings went back to being accurate. So this was not the problem. I believe now that the fan somehow is not blowing enough cold air up. So now I'll probably buy a fan motor and maybe a blade and try that. Otherwise the computer module I priced at $500 so I hope it isn't that. I replace the fan motor a few years ago already.

Snapped in new part