58635-P1317501WE Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

removed door.examined problem,. installed part. super easy

Emptied unit and removed screws holding panels at rear of freezer compartment. Removed panels. Removed two screws holding motor. Made diagram of wire locations and fan blade orientation. Removed three wires and fan blade from motor. Took new motor and installed wires and fan blade to motor. Installed motor with screws. Test ran frig and reinstalled panels.

Most difficult part was finding where they hid the defrost timer. (it is in the left front under the fridge behind the kick panel.) just unscrew the two fastener screws from the front, tilt fridge up on one side, slide timer bracket back and remove. Unplug and remove timer from metal bracket. Replace timer and remount bracket.

Unplugged fridge.
Opened the back panel in freezer with nut driver. Removed nuts to compressor fan mount with nut driver. Old fan blade was not fixed on fan post, i.e., spinning freely. Pressed new fan blade on, remounted fan motor mount, and plugged in fridge. Fan works. Unolugged fridge again to replace the evaporator thermostat at the same time. Note: Tug gently on the thermostat lead that goes through a hole in the back panel. The wires pull relatively easy but the hidden connector is not connected on the other end and needs to be gently tugged through that hole which is shared with a wrapped HVAC line. It wasn't too difficult but it finally pulled through. Then I pushed the new wires and connector back through the same hole. The other wire connectors around the evaporator are attached in the same manner as the old. Zipped tied the wires into a tight bundle that wouldn't interfere with the fan.
Remounted back panel in freezer with nut driver. Everything works great. Stay frosty my friends!

Pop off six mounting screws and the ground screw. Remove the fan blade and reattach. Reinstall. Save yourself big bucks.

It's self-explanatory. The procedure is obvious; it's just a little difficult. The only hard part is attaching the mounting brackets to the fan. If you can't tighten the mounting bolts, loosen them and reposition the brackets. You might end up mispositioning them at first, because they are hard to reach.

I got the product very quickly. (thank you) Looked at online instructions that were quite vague. Pulled plug.Removed the holder for the fan motor slid it out to see what I had. Removed the mounting screws (3) and slid the motor an fan blade out. I made a cut between the wires and marked the "top" wire to motor to be sure to spin in right direction. Removing fan blade hold down clamp was NOT explained at all but I noted that the shaft on the motor was threaded, so I used pliars and held the shaft white un-screwing clamp. I cleaned the fan blades with degreaser and scraped edges of opening on holder opening. Make sure to use ALL the NEW parts included with this kit when re-installing. They send them for a reason. When slpicing and connecting wires it is a 50/50 shot if you don't mark before cutting. You can connect and try plugging fridge back for moment and make sure it is blowing OUT. Put everything back together and after turning DOWN the thermostats twice, fridge is back to usual. Ice maker is cranking out ice and outside case is cool to the touch.

Note: This can be a DIRTY job especially with 4 dogs in house. Fir and grease don't mix well

figured out the condenser fan was kaput. Tried WD, worked for several days then gave out completely. Took off back of fridge and trained small fan on compressor while I ordered new condenser fan. The swap was easy, undid the housing bolts, stripped off the connector, reconnected and voila! works perfect.

Removed screws to pull the part out and took fan off. Put fan back on the new part and put it back in place. Runs very quiet !!!

Thanks !

First I removed all the screws from the back cover.
2nd removed fan nut and fan blade
3rd removed fan bracket
4th I traced wire to the condenser and disconnected wires from wire nuts.
Installed existing fan brackets to new motor kit
then reconnected wire nuts to new motor cord
Reinstalled fan nut and blade,
reinstalled cover, plugged it in and BAM .WORKS PERF!

Philips screwdriver
Removed screw (1)
Removed light bulb
Put in new light bulb
Closed door to bulb compartment
Returned screw.

Pro tip! Check how many bulbs you need before ordering. Mine only needed two. I got two. I suspect I’ll buy a new microwave before new bulb burns out again. Ordering/delivery was fast. No need to have spare on hand.

I had a son put in the new light bulbs. Rather simple

Removed the top hinge cover with Philips screwdriver. Removed the three bolts holding the top hinge in place. Removed the top hinge, and lifted the door off the remains of the lower hinge. Unbolted the remnants of the lower hinge closure mechanism and replaced it with the new set. Reassembled the door on the lower hinge, and then replaced and bolted back on the top hinge. Door back to full working order in less than fifteen minutes.

The chiller door frame is easy to install. Simply remove the egg holder, gently pry the door off [if the tabs on the old one haven't broken off yet] by gently prying the door sides where it mounts to the frame tabs. The door will then slide out. Lift the chiller door frame up then slide it towards you. when putting the new chiller door frame back in place just line up the two [2] front alignment pins on the chiller door frame [one on each side of the chiller door frame in the front] with the holes in the front of the chiller drawer basin. Slide the new frame back and down in to place. Next, carefully adjust the freezer air flow register to the desired temperature [it's best to do this with a thermometer and take your time since the temperatures change slowly depending on how long the freezer side runs]. To change the desired height for installing the new chiller door frame remove the chiller door frame as stated above [you do not have to remove the chiller door to change the chiller assembly height] then lift up and slide out the the chiller drawer basin. Remember, there's holes on the side of the frame where the cold air from the freezer can enter the chiller - make sure one of these holes lines up with the opening from the freezer. When you have the desired slide the chiller drawer basin back and down on the slots in the refrigerator door. Next line up the two [2] front alignment pins on the chiller door frame [one on each side of the chiller door frame in the front] with the holes in the front of the chiller drawer basin. Slide the new frame back and down in to place. Next, carefully adjust the freezer air flow register to the desired temperature [it's best to do this with a thermometer and take your time since the temperatures change slowly depending on how long the freezer side runs]. I keep mine at 34`F so the milk keeps a long time yet doesn't freeze.

First I removed the cover to the evaporator in the freezer section and found the coil iced up, then I turned the defrost timer until it clicked into the defrost mode, the heaters came on so I left the timer in the defrost mode to defrost the coil, it stayed on and did not change. The timer motor was bad, I ordered a new part and had to manually defrost the refrigerator by turning the timer. To replace the part I had to first unplug the power cord then pull the kick plate off at the front of the refrigerator and remove two screws that hold the timer in place, then pull it out unplug the electric plug in the new timer secure it with the two screws and put the kick plate back in place. I then plugged in the power cord and the refrigerator came on as is now working great..