ABR1922FES12 Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

Followed Youtube video from Free Repair Help. Only problem was getting down low enough to see the pins on the Compressor to plug the replacement Compressor Start Device and Capacitor-could not replace the old clip to hold the unit to the Compressor like the old unit had. At 77 I just have a problem bending over.

I had previously replaced the defrost timer and thermostat but the freezer was still not cold enough and was frosting up. After replacing the heater element I was disappointed that all the ice melted and the refrigerator was warming up. We were looking for a replacement appliance, but after the second day the freezer and refrigerator were working perfectly! It just took some time to cycle enough to catch up.

The fridge would occasionally run warm, requiring me to turn it off and defrost the evap coils in the freezer. I found an online video that demonstrated the entire process of replacing the control board. The fridge model in the video was different than mine, so it took some time to figure out how to remove the panel. Once that was done, the rest was easy. The only tool required was a flat-head screwdriver that was used to push in the tabs holding the panel in place. The circuit board took more effort to split in two than I had realized, and I had to be careful not to bend any of the components on its surface. The whole process took less than 30 minutes, and the fridge is working properly now..

got the new part, took the old part out and snapped the new part in! Very easy. Thank you.

The instructions in the package were not helpful. They wanted me to cut the wiring harness and described where to cut based on the wire colors. My wires were not the same color! I removed the light mechanism using a combination of a screwdriver, putty knife, and plain old muscle with my fingers! The wiring harness unplugged easily and the new one inserted. It was easy to push the whole assembly back into the door. I spent more time looking for something to cut the wiring harness with (and never did find it) than the whole job actually took without needing to cut anything!

Disconnect plug from wall. Insert putty knife between light switch.and trim panel , apply pressure to depress plastic spring holding switch in place. Apply a slight twist too putty knife releasing switch from trim piece. This wil expose plug connected to switch. Disconnect plug from switch. Connect new switch to plug. Insert switch into trim. Plug refrigerator into wall socket.

use kitchen knife to pry out. replaced switch assemble and pressed back into place. Could not have done this with out help from previous customers. Thanks

Popped out broken switch with blunt flat edged instrument. Disconnected switch from unit . Plugged new piece in and reinserted into side panel of refrigerator. Very easy.

I ordered the part (new shelf) and when it arrived THE NEXT DAY I just let it in. Very easy and quick.

I did not do the repair yet, there is no schematic on how to route the hose; also no description of how to do the routing/connections.

Cleaned all lines running to water control valve and ice maker. Replaced water control valve still no water to Ice Maker. Replaced Ice Maker as tec. support suggested. Still no water to Ice Maker talked again to tec. support they didn't know what to do? After I spent 200.00 dollars in parts and shipping. NOW I still have get a repairman out fix the problem. The program is helpful but I don't see why you don't have someone to talk to about the problem that knows what they are talking about. It may be a defective waters inlet valve that you sent. The Ice maker does work if it had water. I ran a test with the jumper wire as suggested.

The plastic fill cup part is also used to hold one end of the wire “one/off” switch that is manually activated or activated when the ice tray is full. This wire piece fell out because one end, that is part of the plastic fill cup, broke off. The wire switch was fine.

The video demos show you exactly what to do. The repair man showed me a trick to speed up the testing process. The trick is to insert a wire jumper cable to actuate the ice maker and make it rotate. But this isn’t necessary.

Hardest part of this fix is emptying the freezer (bottom with a slide out door) and removing the door.

Why this part is so expensive is beyond me. But I’m happy it was available for a 24yo fridge that still works!!

Disconncted power, pulled plug on disconnect, loosened 3 ice maker attach screws, removed ice maker. carefully removed old broken part, to understand reasembly. Reinstalled new water fill & bearing part.. hung icemaker and tightened attach screws. Reattached electrical plug.. turned on power, it all worked. .took about 45 min to remove, 15 min to reinstall. Right tools needed re disassembly AND ASSEMBLY

I followed the instructions for the installation of the icemaker and its connection to the house water supply.

Unplugged and disconnected the water supply.Disconnected the water line coming from the filter and cut about 1/8 inch off to square it off.
Unscrewed panel to expose inlet valve. With a marker I noted where the lines need to go back to. Disconnected the other two lines and made fresh straight cuts with a utility knife. Disconnected both plugs from the old inlet. The yellow one was difficult to get off, so I carefuly used a screw driver. Be careful, you don't want to break the plug. Reinstalled the new inlet. make sure that you push all of the lines in the valve so that they are completely seated. Make electrical connections. Secure valve to the panel. The water line from the filter should be the last line that you connect. Put screws back in the panel.
Plug in and turn on water supply. Fill up a gallon container from water dispenser. Check for leaks. Let the ice machine fill up. Check for leaks. Place back panel back on and secure. GOOD LUCK!