ABR2227FES12 Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

The Ice maker unit had to be removed and the shaft had to also be removed, which required dis-assembling the motor drive. The thickness of the shaft and the bearing fill cup prevents it from simply pushing it in place. Other than that I have Ice.

removed 3 screws.disconnected power connection.removed old ice maker,put new one in.tightened 3 screws.reconnected power plug turned unit on.now makes great ice.

Removed the 2 screws holding the light bulb shield, then the 4 uolding the metal panel. Unplugged the olw door switch and replaced.
reassembled the pieces.

took about 15 min just took off gasket with flat screwdriver cleaned and put it on no glue it has magnets very easy

At first I went to a local part supplier and they didn't have it in stock but could order it for me for $55.00 plus $10.00 to ship it. I told them I would have to think about it. I went home and got on the computer and found your web site and was I shocked when I saw the same part listed for $6.98 and $7.00 to ship it. You guys saved me $50.00. The part arrived in two day and took 5 min. to install. I now have light in my refrigerator. Thank you.

Easy fix, it's right in the back of the fridge under a cover that just clips in, a piece of foam, and two screws. The hardest part is getting the clips free without breaking them. After replacement it's silent instead of making a grinding noise regularly.

Instructions were great five minutes to remove and replace fan....Thank You............ saved big money

Pop off vent cover remove 2 screws removed cover housing and foam. Removed damper by unclipping tabs on left and right side of control lift up and out. Unplugged power wires reinstalled in reverse order.

After the original center crisper drawer slide rail broke and and second also looking in deep into your parts catalog I discovered that the refrigerator never came with a crisper frame brace from the store or factory.
Thanks to you , I no longer have the use of the center rail breaking off for now everything is made out of cheaply make plastic by whirlpool.

I first removed the bottom shelf. Then I popped the rail in. It was pretty easy although I did have to use some force to fit it in. Ordering the part and doing it myself was a lot cheaper than calling the repair man.

Watched video. Unplugged refrigerator and popped out switch. In plugged connector and pushed switch in place. Plugged in refrigerator and the light worked

My son (who does HVAC, but not appliance repair) did some investigating by taking front and back panels off and determined that the evaporator coil was freezing over because the defrost wire was not heating up. He and his girlfriend did some real-time internet searching for diagnostic info because NO control diagram was included with the refrigerator. He determined the problem was most likely the electronic control board. Ordered and installed a new board and the refrigerator is back to working fine. Took about 2 hours to diagnose the problem and 1/4 hour to actually install the control board. Kind of disappointing that this control board failed when the refrigerator was less that 4 years old.

I initially tested the heating element and defrost thermostat using an ohm meter. the defrost thermostat was incased in ice, so I replaced it first. The refridgerator worked for about a week and then froze up again. I then replaced the thermistor and the unit is working as designed.

long story, but good experience with Partselect.com...ordered a defrost heater as I had to replace same 15 years earlier, when part arrived I managed to test continuity of old heater in place and appeared fine (unless due to intermittent break that opened with heat) - so went ahead and order defrost thermostat and arraigned for return of heater (kept until testing after installation of the thermostat) - replacement of thermostat pretty easy - be sure to watch video of how to remove freezer rails for bottom freezer.
When I plugged back in the compressor wouldn't start, tried to and then shut off over and over. I had the dreaded thought that either I had put a leak in the coils or the compressor had failed due to overwork with failed defrost mode. Fingers crossed I ordered start capacitor and relay kit...sure enough when I removed the old capacitor and relay - I heard loose parts in the relay and pieces fell out when I shook it. installed new relay/capacitor and the fridge works like new - 21 year old Amana - very well engineered and easy to work on - great videos on disassembly re-assembly - when I replaced the heater 10 years ago I couldn't figure out how to remove side rails - no idea how I managed to pull the bottom of the cooling unit past the rails to remove and replace the heater.
I would recommend doing what I did, unless you are sure of the failure mode - which is to leave the back panel open for a day in the freezer after repair to be sure the defrost mode is working.

Failure detected as Damper Control at upper rear of compartment would continuously open/close, would never stay open or closed. Sometimes the main board would turn it off (maybe a low thermistor limit?), but it would stick open a bit, and keeping letting freezer air into fridge. Could have potentially been control board, but as it turns out after disassembly of the defective damper, the internal microswitch was stuck in the closed position so it wouldn't shut off the motor. Easy fix by gently pulling the cover off the damper control, pull out Styrofoam encasement, then a phillips to remove the damper assembly. Gently push tabs to release wire connectors. Reverse the process and you're done! If I really wanted to go on the cheap, I could have just changed the microswitch, but that looked like a shaky maneuver at best. This site saved me on this one, so happy to share my experience with this Maytag and its nasty habit of freezing my milk and eggs!! :)