A8TCNWFAB02 Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

Per instructions

Removed/replaced ice maker and valve per enclosed instructions. If you can service your own lawn mower this R&R should be easy for you.

followed the video as instructed. Saved two repairman calls, one to find the problem, one to install. Net savings was about $130.00

With service sheet, Enter service dagnostic mode, NO-6 is Desrost heater / Bi-metal Component status indicator shows 02 , it means Bi-metal is open, It should read 01,It's cover with Ice ( bellow 32 Dig. F )Mostly it open at 50 dig. F, To replace remove lamp cover and lamp + six hex screw with 1/4" nut driver, pull back cover ( with commen requirement to turn of power and deice the evaporator coil )out, bi-metal element is top at enterance of coil,cut both wire near bi-metal, join new bi-metal with wire nut or Insulated wire Jointer, Tape jonts proper,do neat work no hanging wire, Replace back removed parts back,Turn power back

remove fiber grill cover, remove large bolt holding under frame ( with a 2X4 block, place under refrigerator on outside edge so frame can drop down.) remove pin from broken wheel, replace reversing proceedure. Note: when blocking refrigerator, care must be taken not to let block extend under entire frame. it only needs to be placed approx 3/4" under edge of refrigerator.

Turn off power to the frig. Remove the shelves and back brackets from the freezer, then with a 1/4" nut driver remove the nuts holding the rear metal panel in place. Once removed the defrost thermostat is right in front of you. You will have to clip the wires from the old t-stat because they are in a harness. Once clipped, strip the wires back, wire in the new t-stat, add wire nuts and put it all back together. Very easy job to do, works great. Thanks Parts Select, Mike.

It was so easy. This is the second Ice maker we have put in this fridge. Thank you very much.

I tried to just replace the cover rather than the whole unit but it was impossible - the cover would not go/stay on. I tried to remove the old unit completely but it would not unplug it was practically fused to the back of the fridge and the liner was cracking. I ended up breaking the cover and jerry rigging it over the bulb to prevent items in the fridge from being able to touch. Bad solution.

remoove all the food and shelves out from the freezer section, remoove the light bulb lens ( 1 phillips screw) remoove light bulb, take out 6 srews on the back panel then slide out through the top with a slight bending curve motion, the bimetal thermostat will be clamped to the evaporator inlet, ( just after the cap tube) snap it off, then cut the wires about 2 inches from the stat, strip the ends about a quarter inch with wire strippers, same on the new stat, then use 16 or 18 gauge butt splices and crimp them , then reassemble in reverse order.

Added ice maker to our frige as i have never done one so i called a friend and he came over once we figured it out took less than 1/2 hour to install and run water line only thing instructions could have been a lettle clearer to under stand plus i called sears and they wanted 160.00 dollars for just the icemker this did not include the shut off arm or the bucket to catch the ice and there was no screws to attach it to the inside of the freezer you guys saved me $70.00 if not more and got more for my dollar thank you very much over all pretty simple check parts select before going to like sears or any place like them much cheaper here thanks

Watched video of repair. Took all drawers and drawer holders out of freezer to acesss back panel. Removed 6 screws from back panel,slid up and out. Cut 2 wires to remove old bi-mtl defroster. splice the wires and attached new bi-metal def.

The fridge was prepped for an ice maker but was never installed. After much aggravation of people not filling the ice trays I gave up and installed the ice maker. This is probably the hottest summer on record, and we were going thru a lot of ice. Lost a little real estate in the freezer by the ice maker but it was well worth it. Now I know I have fresh ice for cocktails in the evening!Install was fast and easy. A little longer than usual because I had to run the water line as well.

After receiving the new part almost immediately,using two screw drivers, removed the broken switch from the plastic frame. Be careful not to scratch or otherwise tear the plastic...very pliable. Since the original switch was factory installed and the wires were packed in fiberglass insulation, the switch came out but the wires and clips were still in place and could not reach the new switch. It was necessary to pull them down with bent long nose pliers...used a lot of "pull" but the wires held up.Connected the switch, turned the power on and there was light! Reports from other users really took the uncertainty out of the task.

Switch off power at mains outlet. Pull off the front trim panel on the control box at top of the refrigerator compartment (it is just clipped into place). Behind are two screws which you remove. Remove the bulb and also two screws underneath and towards back of the control box. You can then pull down the control box. The defrost timer board is now visible and can easily be switched out (it comes with instructions how to do this). This job too no more than 20 minutes and saved me buying a new refrigerator at $1000.

After ordering the ice-maker, but before it had arrived, I installed a valve in the pex water line in the room right below the fridge. I had to rent a pex clamp kit from Home Depot. It cost $8 for 4 hours and came with the crimpers and band cutters. I then ran a poly line to an in-line filter which I mounted to an exposed stud and fished the line up the wall and out a small hole I drilled behind the fridge. When the ice-maker came, it took less than 30 minutes to install and start my first batch of ice. With the in-line filter, the ice forms with practically no sediment flakes. Part Select was the only place I could find a replacement ice-maker. In addition to the parts in the ice-maker kit, I had to buy 12 feet of poly water line, a ball-valve, the in-line filter and a compression fitting. A total of $20 at my plumbing contractor store.