AFF2534FES2 Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

i had used your web site before and i read several problems that your readers had. i went to the back of the unit, removed the bottom cover and right there the i found the run capacitor and i chaged it. since i had only ordered this part to save money i went back and ordered the Start Device which when i took it off it was completely burned. the replacement part came labeled with 2 different compressor #, so i picked the one that i had and unpluged each wire. the part may differ from the one that it's in the unit but it worked when i pluged everything back on. it also helps to take a picture of everything before removing the wires in case you have to leave it and come back later. i hope to use this refrigerator another 10 years. thank you all for your help.

Looking at the ice maker it is pretty cut & dried as to how to remove the unit. I took out the ice tray and just started removing all the mounting screws. The same for the mold ice tray & heating element. I was just sad that you did not have just the heating element separate from the mold ice tray.

After lots of internet exploring and diagnosis, the icemaker comes right out, and with three screws out and in, the job is all but done. Don't pay anyone for this repair!!!!!

These guys had my part mailed in lighting fast! It arrived in 2 days in a padded box in perfect shape.The price was the best on line and they saved my life one day before thansgiving!! They got my vote and respect! Great job partselect!!! walt , crete illinois

Watched installation Video on the website parts. I put the new gaskets in bath tube in warm water for a few minuets until the gaskets were warm and pliable. I removed old gaskets cleaned door facing and installed new gaskets as instructed on video. Thanks for the information on how to install because I was dreading trying to do this task. "Just follow and listen to the instruction on Video".

replaced the poorly designed "duck bill" drain with this P trap. Very simple repair done by accessing through the back of the refrigerator. The video on this website walked me right through the repair. It did however fail to mention that the ice has to be removed from the inside. I had to remove the drawer face and pull outs. Then the ice maker and back panel are removed. I used a heat gun and screwdriver to chip and melt the ice build up. If one had the luxury of having another refrigerator to move food in to you could just unplug the unit until the ice melts.

I could not determine if the solenoid water inlet valve or the ice maker unit was bad, so I replaced both.
In this model of the refrigerator, the freezer is a drawer on the bottom, so this makes access to the ice maker mounting a little tricky. The need to contort to reach into the back made this take longer and was more uncomfortable than expected. I needed to completely remove the screws for the top brackets, even though most instructions indicate you can loosen these and lift the ice maker off. Be careful to properly re-seat the water guide that directs the water from the inlet tube to the ice maker. That tended to interfere with re-connecting the wiring harness to the back of the freezer. Again, this was likely difficult because of having to bend over into the freezer.
The ice maker needs to be in the freezer for about 12 hours before the sensor in the black wire is cool enough to allow operation. I did not know this at first, so I was initially worried that there was a bigger problem. If you want to use the test functions with a jumper wire, be sure the door switch that controls the freezer light is depressed.
The solenoid value replacement was fairly straightforward. I found it useful to use a small open wrench to push the compression lock for the value-to-ice maker water tube to remove the old solenoid. Otherwise, replacing the water valve was simple.

It was so easy!

Thanks for the rush to my home on the part.

I just unscrewed the plate that locks in the light switch (screwdriver) and unplugged the old faulty part and plugged in the new switch, screwed the cover back on and I was done!

Easy!

And I am not Mr. Fix-it!

Just pulled out theold and squeezed in the new. I forced it and it went in.

Could not figure out why this was happening suddenly. Then remembered I had recently changed the lid to one I had stored for over two years in the garage. They had sent me a replacement lid when the unit was less than a year old because the origianl had a crack in the clear section. Noticed it seemed a little warped. Thought I would replace it to see if that solved the
problem.
We had to replace the side panel of the draawer because the warped lid had broken the peg off of one side. I didn't want that to happen again.
The new lid did the job....This company is the only one I will use in the future for my appliances. Very easy to find parts and the pricing was better.

Removed the middle screw and the whole rail came of. Unplugged wires and removed old rail. Plugged in the new rail and slid top and bottom slides on and put on the middle screw. Job finished

turn off water and unplug fridge. remove ice maker bottom mounting screw. just loosen the 2 top mounting screws. unplug wire harness from back of fridge. remove old icemaker from freezer compartment. once removed, salvage square endcover and reinstall on new maker. unfasten wire harness from old maker and reinsatll on new one. reinsert thermal wire in new ice maker holding bracket. remove second wiring bracket and reinstall on new maker to hold remaining wires (not mentioned on "how to-" video). remove old ice maker on/off bale and reinstall on new one. remount new maker to top mounting screws, reinsert harness plug into fridge. replace bottom screw,

I ordered a right & left gasket but when they arrived there was no indication of which was the right or left one...so I just had to guess...I easily lifted the old gasket away from the door & removed. Then starting at the top began inserting the portion that goes into the groove with the help of the table knife, continuing down both sides..then sat on a stool to push the bottom section into place...Had to go back over several areas to reseat but finally closed the door to hopefully set the gasket..Drank some hot tea, then removed the left gasket & began the process all over...The extra flaps ended up on the left side of the door so I may have to remove this side and reposition...I'll check it in a few..then will blow all with a warm setting of the low dryer to continue helping the molding process..

Broken bottom drawer lid mount

The digital display numbers (0= off and 7=coldest setting) controlled by the ECB would continually be replaced by straight lines, and the refrigerator would stop cooling. I tried unplugging it for a while. After plugging it in again, it worked (the digital display came on, I set it to "4" and it reached the proper temp), but the problem occurred again the following day, and then it stopped cooling entirely. I ordered the ECB, and it arrived in 3 business days. I watched the installation instruction video, took my time, double-checked the vid a few times to make sure I was doing it correctly, and replaced the ECB by myself in less than an hour. The refrigerator has been running without problems for 3 weeks now. My fridge had a different light bulb configuration than the one in the video, but everything else was the same, and it was a simple repair.