AFI2539ERM02 Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

Let the ice in the freezer melt while installing P trap drain tube

Open and remove door by loosening two screws on both sides of the door. Lift up and away the door.place the door on flat surface, grab and lift up on seal pulling out of reach. Clean track, alone seal on food before pressing in place. Check to make sure seal is set in place. Install door job done.

Replaced water/ice maker inlet valve from video instructions from Just Answer. The inlet tube for the water dispenser would not cede in the valve and this created a leak problem from the water dispenser connection. Called repair tech and he could not get the line to cede correctly in the inlet valve. Am going to request a replacement part. This has been very frustrating!

Looked online for instructions. I had to remove the shelves from inside the frig, then pop off part of the right inside back wall. The way the 3 water lines attached to the inlet valve was a terrible design. There are plastic little collars that need to be pushed back to release the water lines from the old valve, then when you install the new valve, you need to push them back to reattach the water lines. Once installed, one had a leak. No matter how hard I tried I couldn't get the little plastic collar to disengage. I couldn't push the line in further and I couldn't get it back out. Ended up cutting the line off at the valve just to get it out. Then had to cut out the piece that was still stuck in the valve. Tried to install it again and it leaked even more. Ended up putting the old valve back in and throwing away the $130 new inlet valve because there are no returns on electrical parts. Total waste of time and money ! ! ! Not happy to say the least.

The ice selector solenoid was a snap to replace.
You do have to pull the ice maker out. I looked on you tube to find out how to take off the wire cover and how to release the ice maker so it will slide out.
Firmly grab it and pull try to keep it level while pulling and it will slide out better.
After removed its 2 small screws and a release clamp to get the old part off and snap the new one in replace screws and wires.
The toughest part of this was figuring out that it was the solenoid in the first place.
Best of luck do it yourselfers like me.

I easily ordered the part. When it came in, I just shut off the water, disconnected the electricity, and followed instructions to remove shelving and drawers. Then removed the rear interior cover, removed the old water inlet valve and installed the new one. Just a couple moldex wire connections and the 3 water lines in and out. Don't know if this is still ok, but so simple a caveman could do it. Sorry Geico.

I ordered the wrong part for my refrigerator. The refund processed easily. However, the email that I was promised with return instructions has not been sent. I have asked several times about how to return this part and total silence from partselect. I'm ready to throw this replacement bin in the trash.

It was easier than I had anticipated. Just had to make sure that I was very careful in removing the old part so I did not break any of the good plastic that I needed in order to install the plastic temperature control to the new part.

First I removed the pantry drawer; then the two crisper drawers and glass shelf. Then I removed the hex screws that held end cap in place. Removal of cap from refrigerator was complicated by the adjustable temperature control - it is loosely attached at the back of end cap and also has to be removed to get cap out. Gentle persuasion accomplishes this. Getting the slider off end cap also a bit difficult. Then I removed the drawer glides. Reversing all steps was fairly easy and the rest of the "fix" went well. I wished that there had been some written directions - or at the very least, a diagram of how all went together. All in all was still cheaper than repair person.

I safely unplugged the power from the refrigerator first before starting the repair. I then had to remove the bottom access panel which is secured with hex head screws, then disconnected the two plugs from the two failed parts that connects to the appliance compressor. After installing the replacement parts and returning power back to the refrigerator I buttoned up the access panel and I waited at least three hours to turn the cooling system back on. This allows the coolant in the compressor to settle. The two replacements parts fixed the cooling system.

I removed and replaced the right pantry end cap, as well as the drawer lid.

Don't try and remove the front/handle from the broken pan, you will break it and its double the price of the pan, just use the small hammer to break the pan into smaller pieces and remove handle from them then the handle will just snap onto the new pan. Piece of cake!

Failure detected as Damper Control at upper rear of compartment would continuously open/close, would never stay open or closed. Sometimes the main board would turn it off (maybe a low thermistor limit?), but it would stick open a bit, and keeping letting freezer air into fridge. Could have potentially been control board, but as it turns out after disassembly of the defective damper, the internal microswitch was stuck in the closed position so it wouldn't shut off the motor. Easy fix by gently pulling the cover off the damper control, pull out Styrofoam encasement, then a phillips to remove the damper assembly. Gently push tabs to release wire connectors. Reverse the process and you're done! If I really wanted to go on the cheap, I could have just changed the microswitch, but that looked like a shaky maneuver at best. This site saved me on this one, so happy to share my experience with this Maytag and its nasty habit of freezing my milk and eggs!! :)

Popped out with butter knife and unplugged 3 prong connector and reversed with anew switch.

But, unfortunately it got broken again exactly same way as before.
So, I ordered same switch again for 2nd time.

Maytag should recall that Rocker Switch and build with better materials.

Removed old shelf and installed new shelf. No tools required