BX20S5E-P1196502WE Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

proped up frig, loosened screws, cut pin, installed rooler w/ new pin, rounded pin end, reistalled, lowered frig...everyone happy, thanks again partselect.

simpley place the support into slot provided.

At first I went to a local part supplier and they didn't have it in stock but could order it for me for $55.00 plus $10.00 to ship it. I told them I would have to think about it. I went home and got on the computer and found your web site and was I shocked when I saw the same part listed for $6.98 and $7.00 to ship it. You guys saved me $50.00. The part arrived in two day and took 5 min. to install. I now have light in my refrigerator. Thank you.

Pretty simple really after reading online some other owners' experiences. This is a bottom freezer unit. Remove the ice maker, the tray slides, and the back cover of the freezer box. In my case I had to thaw it out with a hair dryer as the cover was frozen in place. I checked the old 'stat and found it was bad; I temporarily wired the leads together until the new 'stat arrived. It does allow the refrigerator to warm up during a defrost cycle but it beats de-icing it twice.The defrost 'stat is clipped over the refrigerant line in the upper right corner of the box. Resistance was 65k ohms and wouldn't close on low temp (tested by clipping it to an exposed refrigerant line in another upright freezer) but there was no obvious damage. The one lead on the replacement 'stat has the wrong connector so you have to cut off the original lead from the old unit and splice it on the wrong lead on the new one. I used an epoxy sealed heat shrink type butt splice. Reassemble and let it run. One word of warning: be careful tightening any screws as they will strip easily

Happen to locate your site by Google. Was impressed and really pleased to find a schematic and directions to find and remove and specs to test the water valve and Defrost thermometer using an electric multimeter. You cannot tell by "looking" at a component if it is still OK.
So I put all the freezer contents into my beach cooler. The repair went as follows.
1. Removed the 6 screws from the back panel and pulled it out of the way.
2. Located the defrost thermostat and pulled it off of the coil.
3. Pulled the two connections off and took it to the bench to test. It showed no readings indicating it was dead.
4. Ordered a new one which came in two days.
5. Had to change the electrical connections using wire nuts.
6. Reversed the process plugged the refrigerator back into the wall. It started and later on I was getting ice cubes.
A great experience. Don't mess with repair guy as they normally are not up to speed on all devices and you are paying for them to learn how to repair your appliance in several trips. Probably using this site. If you can follow instructions, you can do this stuff.
Note. I tested the Water valve using given instructions. More time is used moving things around than the actual repairs. I avoided $150.00 for a new ice maker unit.

Easy but time consuming. I followed the excellent video instructions on this site and read through all the user comments before starting. I am a handy 65 year old woman who did this alone. I put the gasket in the dryer for 15 minutes then laid it flat for 24 hours before starting. I used a kitchen spatula to release the failed gasket and the plastic panel from the freezer door. The old freezer gasket allowed moisture into the insulation behind the plastic panel on the inside of the freezer door. The insulation inside was frozen solid and took several hours to defrost before I could continue, so prepare for down time by unloading your freezer. I used spray foam insulation after removing the old insulation and cleaning the plastic panel. The foam expands 2x so don't overfill the crevices or you will have to carve it out later like I did. It's really messy so wear gloves and protect surfaces. Putting it back together is easy. I used a heat gun to smooth out the kinks in the gasket and used the spatula to slide the gasket in place. I learned the hard way that there are 4 oval shaped openings on the plastic panel (one on each side) that should be screwed in first to align the panel correctly before screwing in the rest of the screws. My 25+ old fridge is running like new again! It's quieter and the blower isn't running as often. Very happy.

first thing i thought was the condenser was plugged so pulled out and cleaned with shop vacum backwards so it became a blower not a vacum cleaned it good and put together. wife noticed cracking noise inside freezer. took all freezer food and shelfs out. took 1/4 inch hex nut screws out and found complete condenser solid ice. did some research on internet and found parts select stories. i buy passed thermostate and hooked heating coils direct which then thawed condenser. checked timer by turning of and it worked fine until i got part and installed.

Referencing the info/schematics you have on your website, I unscrewed/unattached top-front panel (carefully), from behind the panel you have to detach the wires (2) from the switch, pushed "in" the switch to remove, put in new switch and attach wires to test BEFORE remounting panel. Tada!! Thank you PartSelect! You saved me at least $80...would have been at least $100 to have a repair person come to the house!

First of all I want to thank Michael from Carlisle,PA and this site for publishing Michael's info on the wiring specifics on the new 3 connector Start Relay ( WP2262185 ). The original relay only has 2 connectors The 2 orange wires which are combined to one female connector need to be clipped and separated each to its own connector. Refer to Michael's blog as to which wire goes to which connector on the Start Relay. I replaced the Run Capacitor, Start Relay and Overload just to be safe. The Start Relay was the actual culprit.Thank you for an excellent website!

I took the two screws out of the original handle to remove from the refrigerator. Then I took out the four screws holding the plastic logo decorative strips off the original handle.
I put the plastic decorative strip onto the new handle using the same four screws.
Then I put the new handle back onto the refrigerator using the original two screws. Totaly time about 5 min.

I removed the screws holding the side onto the drawer, removed the side, placed the new one on and put the screws back.

Repair went well,took about five to ten minutes to disconnect the power from the fridge removed the defective switch installed the new one ,reconnected the power,,,and Let there be light and there was light!

I simply removed the old switch by gently pulling down on the old switch with a screwdriver. When it was about half way out I just gently pulled down on the old switch and it popped out... I removed the two connectors attached to the old switch by pulling on the connectors with a pliers...I tried using my fingers but wasn't able to pull the connectors off so I used pliers. It worked perfectly.. When pulling off the old connectors, make sure you attach the new switch to the same tabs on the new switch... It was very easy to do and took under 5 mins.....The light switch works perfect....P.S. You should unplug the frig while making the connection just in case....Safety first....!!!

First I removed the 2 screws that held the handle to the door. Then I removed the 4 screws that held the name plate on the handle. I removed the name plate and put it on the new handle. I put the 4 screws in to hold the name plate to the handle. And last of all I attached the new handle to the refrigerator door with the 2 screws.

inserted a knife between the switch and the plastic interior in order to pop the switch out.
then took off the 2 wires on the old switch put them on the new switch and reinserted the switch into the plastic interior.