BZ22QL-P1153002WL Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thick. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."

I replaced the run capacitor wich is located near the compressor, i first turned power off to fridge than remuved capacitor checked for continuity and the capacitor was the problem thanks

It was easy after it was apparent that the run capacitor was plugged into the compressor. This was determined from a parts diagram of the actual model refrigerator. The part was the same but the location on the video was wrong. A large screwdriver was used to unplug the capacitor from the compressor. The temperature range of the refrigerator is still too wide but it's colder.

removed old and instaslled new. biggest problem was getting to one of the screws.

Removed the access panel on back of unit located the Run Capacitor on the compressor and removed the bad one and put the new one on and pugged refrigerator back in and it started up and works fine now

Unplug fridge, unpluged fan motor from plug socket, removed bracket screws, removed fan retainer clip from shaft. removed screws holding fan to bracket

remove ice maker vent and back piece. Unclip defrost thermostat and unplug. Plug new thermostat in and clip to element, reattach back piece, vent and ice maker. Is a tight fit getting icemaker out, there are 3 screws 2 on top and one on bottom.

First of all let me say I can't believe I fixed it! And I can thank this website for it, they also had my part at my front door in less than 24 hours. I am so amazed! I am a stay at home Mom, and because my husband is always off with the military I knew the job was up to me to fix. And because times are tough we certainly couldn't afford a repairman. After reading many stories here about the same problem I had, I diagnosed what was wrong with my refrigerator. The defrost thermostat was faulty. First thing to do was turn off the refrig and then unplug it. I then emptied the bottom freezer, used a screwdriver to remove back panel wall. Lo and behold the coils were covered with ice. I defrosted the freezer using a blow dryer, also had to empty the drip pan in the back. when it got full of water. ANd because there is no way to remove the drip pan, I actually got a small air hose from my son's old fish tank(clean one) and then siphoned the water into a pot, took all of 10 minutes! I then used needle nose pliers to remove the bad defrost thermostat from the refrig's wiring.The defrost thermostat which had a bulge in it so knew I was on the right path. I looked at the new defrost thermostat and they had different ends on it then the one I just removed, and I remember reading what another member did, and that was to cut off the connecting caps, strip the wires , use electrical tape to join them and use a crimping tool to place the old caps on to the new defrost thermostat .I then inserted the thermostat to the freezer's wiring. Hope that makes sense to everyone. WEll, everything is running great! Thank-You Part Select, you saved me lots of money!

I removed 7 screws hold the heavy cardboard cover on the rear of the fridge. The dificult part was taking the screws that hold the 3 fan motor braces on the fan out. After that it was a matter of making the wire conections and putting it back in. I did not have enough room to laydown to do the work, If i had it would have been a lot easier to see the screws that had to be removed. All in all an easy job, and the part was a perfect fit.

Remove handle from refrigerator using phiilips screwdriver(2 screws).Interchage face plate(4 screws)and reinstall to refrigerator.Had the part the next day after ordering,kind of thought sixty bucks was a little expensive,but had little choice,had to have it.

Not so good that was not the problem. Fan is not seized and all the lights work and display is not on but lights up as well. No start once plugged back in after 15 minutes of being unplugged. Nothing same no change.

Once I removed the contents of the freezer I found ice on the inside back panel Removing the panel I found ice on the cooling coils and the defrost thermostat was bulged out where the wires were attached.I removed the panel with the nutdriver as shown in the video. I removed the ice maker connection and removed the panel from the freezer section. I then had to manually defrost the area with a heat gun. The ice had actually covered the Defrost Thermostat - which was bulging where the wires were attached.. The defrosting took the majority of the repair time - the actual Defrost Thermostat replacement only took about 20 minutes once I could get to it. I spliced the wire with a crimping tool as discussed in the video. Once all was defrosted I reversed the operation.Overall, a very simple part change out. The video was extremely helpful - if nothing else to mentally prepare me for the task.

Was told capacitor was problem 90% of the time.Capacior was not the problem.Bad start relay.

I just popped out the old switch with a flat head screwdriver. Removed the connections and then installed new switch by reversing steps. Popped in back in and the light went on.

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