SL25J (P7870132W) Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

Not so good that was not the problem. Fan is not seized and all the lights work and display is not on but lights up as well. No start once plugged back in after 15 minutes of being unplugged. Nothing same no change.

Was told capacitor was problem 90% of the time.Capacior was not the problem.Bad start relay.

Used the suggested problem list here to narrow down that the repair was most likely the run capacitor. Poped the new one in and I now have better control of my compartment ranges. I have a temperature gauge in each compartment. Check them every opening of the doors.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires... Put a thermometer in a glass of water & now runs at 38 degrees.

Like you video

Removed the access panel on back of unit located the Run Capacitor on the compressor and removed the bad one and put the new one on and pugged refrigerator back in and it started up and works fine now

Unplug fridge, unpluged fan motor from plug socket, removed bracket screws, removed fan retainer clip from shaft. removed screws holding fan to bracket

I removed 7 screws hold the heavy cardboard cover on the rear of the fridge. The dificult part was taking the screws that hold the 3 fan motor braces on the fan out. After that it was a matter of making the wire conections and putting it back in. I did not have enough room to laydown to do the work, If i had it would have been a lot easier to see the screws that had to be removed. All in all an easy job, and the part was a perfect fit.

Talked to a bud who does this kind of work and he walked me thru the simple job. Also watched a you tube segment. Very easy job. Took off the front kick vent panel. Unscrewed the metal holder and unplugged old part, plugged new part in and put panel back on. Turned on unit and it is working like a charm. Got my fingers crossed just in case.

inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thick. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."

removed old and instaslled new. biggest problem was getting to one of the screws.

Partition between Freezer and Fridge was running very hot. (Warm is normal). Oiling fan did not work. The only problems encountered in the replacement were getting fan out and in through coolant lines, cut plug off to accomodate generic fan wiring, getting the screws back in without cooking your hand on a hot compressor. Unit works great!

Ordered new fan motor on line took out old motor and replaced with new one

I removed the nuts that held the motor mount, then removed fan blade, cut the wires, and slid the motor pass the mounts and the coil shroud, Installed motor in reverse order. worked out ok.

removed lower back cover. diconnected fan ass'y electrical connection, removed fan housing (3 screws). removed fan motor from housing. cut old connector from fan and installed on new fan with wire nuts included. re-installed new fan to housing and re-installed housing to frame.