ARB2107AS (PARB2107AS1) Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

inserted a knife between the switch and the plastic interior in order to pop the switch out.
then took off the 2 wires on the old switch put them on the new switch and reinserted the switch into the plastic interior.

I think spent more time removing the frozen food and cleaning the bottom of the freezer compartment than actually changing the fan.

it came in one well constructed assembly, fan motor and bracket - an exact match for the existing part. I did not have an ice maker to remove so the steps were pretty simple.

1) Remove ice cube tray holder
2) Remove about 8 screws that hold the condenser cover plate
3) Remove two screws that hold the bracket (fan is attached to bracket)
4) Pull bracket away and remove two green ground wire tabs
5) Remove power connector
6) Clip wire ties from bracket that hold power cable
7) Remove old part
8) Reverse procedure

The old part had some built in wire tie holders that held the power cable away from the fan. I had no problem using a normal wire tie to tie it out of the way. You can probably just fed it around without a wire tie and achieve the same results.

All in all a real easy job. I'd say the job was easier than replacing a door knob, but harder than putting on new wiper blades.

Should be no problem for someone with average handy man skills.

The refrig seemed warm so I checked the temp of some liquid with a thermometer. Readings were above 60 degrees and I knew food would spoil soon. I vacuumed the dog fur off the cooling coils underneath the machine to see if that would help. Nope. I realized cold air from the freezer was not reaching the refrig. The fan was working but no cold air was coming out. I figured a blockage either in the air duct from the refrig or in the return duct to the freezer. I didn’t see any blockage in the refrig section. I took everything out of the freezer and removed the back wall. The cooling coils were completely frozen solid with frost. Being a frost free machine, I knew there were heaters that were controlled by a timer that melted this frost away periodically and that this cycle was no longer working. I found a schematic on the web, maybe your site, and educated myself on the heater circuit. The circuit consisted of a timer, thermostat near the coils, and a cal rod heater all wired in series. The timer was easy to get to and being a mechanical device I figured it must be the culprit. I ordered one online. I checked its operation and it worked fine. Realizing time was short, I hot wired the cal rod around the thermostat and rotated the timer to its heat position. The frost melted quickly and I put the freezer back together and ordered a thermostat. I canceled the timer order. When it arrived, I installed the new thermostat and it has worked fine for the past month. A little colder than usual as I don’t yet have the settings back to where they were. I have checked the operation of the old thermostat. It’s supposed to close at 30 degrees and open at 45. I have done a continuity check on it by putting it in the freezer, letting it cool down, take it out, let it warm up and it seems to work fine. So I have doubts if I really solved the problem. Wire connections were tight and not corroded. Maybe the timer was hung up on debris that I freed by cycling it. I don’t think this is the end of the story.

I was told to order the run capacitor and the technician thought it would repair the refrigerator; but it did not. The appliance technician had to take the run capacitor off and install what he called a "hard start" and the refrigerator is operating right now.

Part received was what I needed. There was one issue--the 'feed' opening to receive water and direct it into the ice tray was a side feed and what I needed was a back feed. That means I had to do some exchanging of parts to make it work. That exercise took more time that the actual installation.

After unplugging the appliance I needed to thaw a large ice buildup off the evaporator cover panel before I could even remove the panel. The freezer being on the lower part of the appliance has the evaporator mounted vertically and it was 100% encapsulated in rock hard ice. It took over an hour to thaw the ice and collect all the water with a shop vacuum, since the condensate pan began to overflow.
One thawed, I checked all wiring for good connection, checked heater, defrost thermostat, timer unit with multimeter. The defrost thermostat checked out fine after putting it into another freezer for a 15 minute cooldown, but I noticed a crack in the seal and suspected internal moisture and decided to replace that part. A simple plug in of two leads to the new part after clipping it to the evaporator, replacement of the panel, and the appliance was up and running problem free.
A workbench disection of the old part confirmed my assessment, it had internal rust and water and had failed causing the defrost cycle failure.

replaced the entire ice make - 3 screws and a squeeze -off connector and it's out. Reverse to re-install... except that the fill tube had iced up. To thaw the fill tube: unload freezer section (leave food in fridge, but keep door closed), remove ice maker. Boil water, dip drill bit (dull end) into hot water, swirl around, insert (dull end) into to fill tube. Depending on how hot you got it, maybe a tablespoon of ice will melt. Repeat many times - fill tube is about 14" long! Do not use anything sharp - you will nick the tube and ice will form causing you to repeat this procedure. Do not try to break the ice - let the heat work. It took me about 30 minutes to thaw the whole thing - it made a nive gasping noise when the final plug opened up. Re-install ice maker.

At first I thought the fan motor was vibrating the back panel of the freezer. Nope! It was the evaporator motor itself, with worn out bearings creating an off balance fan. Most of the time was spent on removing and replacing the frozen food before getting at the back panel to expose the fan. It was good to find and toss out a few treasures we had forgotten about down there. It's good to have someone with long arms for this job, as the fan is on the back of the freezer, and you are sitting on the floor to begin with. Thanks PartSelect.

remove 3 screws,rotate assembly,depress lock on wire harnass connector,un plug harnass.remove old assembly,remove and transfer side cover and steel wire at front of assembly,connect harnass to new assembly,rotate into place,aling screw holes and install 3 screws.flip front steel wire down and wait for about 1 hour,first tray of ice will fall..all done.

to easy to describe, remove 3 screws and a wire plug then install new unite.
Works great
Thanks

I removed the switch housing (4 screws), replacing the switch in the housing was a snap. It took 5 minutes, cost $8 and light works like new!

Why didn't I order this part and do the repair earlier? Very simple.

I emptied the refrigerator, pulled out the crisper drawers, removed the left side crisper frame and support post, slid in the new frame and post (no tools required), reinstalled the crisper drawers, reloaded all the food back into the refrigerator. I was done in less than 15 minutes. One of the easiest repairs I have ever had to do.

I had to remember how the original broken part of the drawer glide was placed in relation to the other parts of the drawer. I removed the screws for the moving parts and took the broken glide off. I crossed my fingers that the new plastic glide didn't break as there were a couple of places where the glide had to snap into place. It worked perfectly.

Very simple fix, remove 3 screws, two connectors to the old switch

I was heartbroken when I shattered the 27 inch long glass shelf while cleaning the refrigerator. It slipped out of the frame when I was sliding it back in. Part Select came to the rescue. Not only did they have the replacement glass for only $20, but it arrived practically the next day! I just slid the glass right in. No tools necessary.