GZ2626GEKB Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

Popped out the old switch and replaced it with the one dying

pull open seal lift up release bottem catch push in to release top catch clean disk and installnew seal put back in the reverse of taking out dont take any thing else apart

Emptied and disassembled the freezer. Defrosted and dried the coils. Tested the defrost heater coil ( 50 ohms ) PRT and fan - all OK. Opened the lower back panel and cleaned the water collection tray. Vacuumed out all debris including coils underneath. Reassembled everything. Removed the old control board and installed the new board paying attention to ESD steps. Applied AC power. Programmed the new board per the video link ( nicely done ). 3 weeks later and the unit seems dry and happy. Running at lower settings with good temperature results. Suspect the 24VDC relay activating the defrost heater coil on the control board or what controls the relay not working. May pull relay for test.

The plastic fill cup part is also used to hold one end of the wire “one/off” switch that is manually activated or activated when the ice tray is full. This wire piece fell out because one end, that is part of the plastic fill cup, broke off. The wire switch was fine.

The video demos show you exactly what to do. The repair man showed me a trick to speed up the testing process. The trick is to insert a wire jumper cable to actuate the ice maker and make it rotate. But this isn’t necessary.

Hardest part of this fix is emptying the freezer (bottom with a slide out door) and removing the door.

Why this part is so expensive is beyond me. But I’m happy it was available for a 24yo fridge that still works!!

Removed the cover using a mirror to see how to release the clips on the rear side of the cover, removed the circuit board noting how everything was installed and also visually verified the part was the same. Broke the circuit at the designated score, installed and followed instructions for programming. All is well now.

Followed the instructions in the video provided via email from Partselect
However, the part received was the opposite design of the part removed.
It appeared this could be left hand right hand choice of part. Moreover, the button on the switch that turns the light off/on when door is open/closed was not functional due to the part being the opposite of the part I was replacing. I tested the switch I was replacing and it appears this is not the problem. I think the light socket is the problem. I am 69 year old female and capable of doing small repairs, but limited knowledge of electrical so having to troubleshoot by trial and error. Thank you.

Refrigerator was not cold.

I had this problem before and it was the control vale in the back of the refrigerator. I ordered it and change that out in 5 minutes. That wasn’t the problem. I had the repairman come over and within 5 minutes he told me what the problem was. He showed me where the control board was. He then walked me through the removal process.

First remove the light cover on the Freezer & Refrigerator in front where the light button is located. Pull down on the front of the light cover. It pops out.

Second, in the front of the freezer & refrigerator temp control panel put your fingertips in front of the panel and pull down it’s hard to get the pins to release but the front pins will release, then pull down a little to allow the back hooks to release. (You can use a small common screwdriver if you can’t get it with your fingertips).

Next, once the panel is removed then disconnect the wiring harness. Then bring the panel to the counter, this is where you remove the circuit card and replace it. There are 4 hooks that hold the circuit board in place. Use a small common screwdriver to push the hooks away from the board. The new board comes as one piece. The board is perforated to allow you to snap the board. Directions come with the board and how to snap it. You will need to pay attention on how you removed the board. You will need to put the new board in the same way it came out.

Once the board is re-installed and lock into position reverse the process and install the control panel back into position.

Next is the programing of the board. Follow the directions that come with the control board and you will be back in business

This task took about 15 minutes to remove & replace and to program.

The switch fix but did not fix the problem. I assumed the wires go on the same way as on the old switch. Is it possible if one light Burns out, the other will not work either?

I had to cut a groove in the bushing to put the elec. wires through it, & then just remove the hinge, put the bushing in & replace the hing.

Everything went as planned except the cold temperature (freezer door switch located inside freezer) made deflection of the switch locking tab difficult to remove. Letting the switch warm up was not an option.

I checked the element and the thermostat and determined the problem to be the control board. I simply followed the instruction in the video. Everything went well until the last step, the video said to push the freezer down button. When this did not work I refered to the written instructions which told me to push the up button. That did it. Job complete. The unit is working as it should.

Disconncted power, pulled plug on disconnect, loosened 3 ice maker attach screws, removed ice maker. carefully removed old broken part, to understand reasembly. Reinstalled new water fill & bearing part.. hung icemaker and tightened attach screws. Reattached electrical plug.. turned on power, it all worked. .took about 45 min to remove, 15 min to reinstall. Right tools needed re disassembly AND ASSEMBLY

The fridge door was easy. Just unscrew top and lift off hindge. The freezer door took longer. But I had the user guide which helped. We unhooked the power harness at the top of the door, and disconnected the water line at the bottom of the door.

Frankly, it wasn't that hard for me because I had my son-in-law do it!

remove the tray from the freezer. unsnap the front cover from the bin. remove the four screws holding the metal helix and grinder assembly to the bin. slide the metal helix and grinder assembly out. slide the new end cap onto the end of the helix. (this is the only tricky part and takes some patience. The stub end of the helix has to slide into the hole in the end cap. You can't bend the helix, just work the end cap around until it slides over the helix end stub). Reassemble the grinder and helix to the bin, snap the cover on and slide back into the freezer.

Pried out the old switch and installed the new switch.