AS2625PEKB Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

1. Turn your water OFF and pull the refrigerator out from the wall so you can access the back.
2. Use pliers to remove tubing clamp.
3. Remove old water fill tube.
4. I used a putty knife to gently pry out the old fill tube from the back of the refrigerator. Once the fill tube pulls out about 1/4 to 1/2", then you can gently pull the remainder of the tube out by hand. Once I removed my "old" fill tube, that is when I saw the "ice plug" that was causing pressure in the water supply line and caused my water line to pop off.
5. Install new fill tube. The end that goes in first needs to go through a small "ring" inside the freezer (this "ring" is not encountered until the fill tube only has about one more inch to be inserted into the back of the refigerator. I could barely see this "ring" if I opened the freezer drawer and stuck my head in as far as I could. I had to gently rotate the new fill tube until it cleared the "ring". You will feel some resistance until it lines up properly.
6. Snugly push in the part that stays on the outside of the refrigerator until it looks like it is sealed.
7. Gently push up the water fill tube where it belongs in the new part and replace the tubing clamp.
8. Turn your water on and make sure there are no leaks (I left my refrigerator out for about an hour).
9. Push your refrigerator back in place.

proped up frig, loosened screws, cut pin, installed rooler w/ new pin, rounded pin end, reistalled, lowered frig...everyone happy, thanks again partselect.

Watched video. Unplugged refrigerator and popped out switch. In plugged connector and pushed switch in place. Plugged in refrigerator and the light worked

I initially tested the heating element and defrost thermostat using an ohm meter. the defrost thermostat was incased in ice, so I replaced it first. The refridgerator worked for about a week and then froze up again. I then replaced the thermistor and the unit is working as designed.

Truth is, this took a couple hours of cursing, but that was due to poor information and no prior experience. I imagine the next one would take 20 minutes. The issues are these: videos tell you to use a putty knife to pry the old switch out. That is harder than it seems because each switch has a plastic spring that pops open to hold the switch on, and you can't access the spring when the switch is installed. So it is important to use the knife on the side of the switch (left or right of spring -- look at the new switch), and back and forth until the switch is worked out. Then it can get worse. The new switch has to plug in electrically before it can be installed mechanically. In my case, with the switch on the fridge wall rather than the top, the outlet for the plug was encased in foam insullation. That gives the appearance that the plug was fixed, immovable, which makes it impossible to plug it in electrically before the switch is in place, and of course once it is in place you can't then plug it in. The problem here was poor instructions. Just scrape out a lot of the foam around the plug and you find that the plug is really not fixed, but attached to reasonably long wires that allow you to plug it in with the switch a couple inches from the wall, and then insert the switch. None of the online instructions tell you this about the wires.

Popped out with butter knife and unplugged 3 prong connector and reversed with anew switch.

But, unfortunately it got broken again exactly same way as before.
So, I ordered same switch again for 2nd time.

Maytag should recall that Rocker Switch and build with better materials.

Cut old fill tube into pieces, removed and replaced with new tube. Extremely easy.

Problem led to 3 possible problem parts, defrost thermostat, defrost heater or defrost control board. Defrost heater ohmed out to 31 ohms, so seemed good. Defrost thermostat was open when warm but was open after running refrigerator to get freezer side cold enough for thermostat to close, it did not I thought. So I ordered thermostat. Once part came in, I cut up a couple inches on orange and brown wires, stripped off enough to work with. I soldered new one in and heat shrunk the wires. I turned on and it seem to work and all night. Working fine right now.

Remove two screws from top door hinge.
Remove door from unit
Remove old broken plastic cam 1 screw
Replace new door cam tighten 1 screw
Reinstall door and top hinge screws.

Super easy - emptied door of all food, unscrewed bracket from top of door, lifted door off and set aside. Broken cam removed, new one screwed in, and lubed with some Vaseline. Set door back in new cam, screwed bracket into the top, and good to go. I was kinda worried about shopping from PartSelect since I had never heard about them, but the part was here in less than 2 days. Pretty awesome little company.

I changed the bulb but it still didn’t work. I ordered a bulb holder and replaced it and it works properly now. It was an easy repair, remove the bulb, gently pry the bulb holder out with a screwdriver and snap the new one in.

It was useful that under the description of the part in the catalog, it showed that this part was often used to repair this issue. The service was great and the delivery was fast.

Removed the door by taking 3 screws out of the top and lifting straight up, then replaced with the new parts and very easily replaced the door, worked ike a charm, if i didn't know any better it was like factory new

Emptied the door.
Removed the door, top bolts first.
Lifted out the door.
Installed new cam at the bottom.
Set the door back in place.
Bolted the top hinge back on.
Smooth!

The part came quickly and was the right one. You can't imagine how many outfits lose it here. Well done and thanks.

Unloaded refrigerator. Pulled refrigerator from wall. Removed bottom panel on back and replaced bolt. Reversed steps but leveled rear wheel before reloading.

Super simple following the instruction video you posted. Thanks!