XRSS465BB (PXRSS465BB0) Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

The instructions in the package were not helpful. They wanted me to cut the wiring harness and described where to cut based on the wire colors. My wires were not the same color! I removed the light mechanism using a combination of a screwdriver, putty knife, and plain old muscle with my fingers! The wiring harness unplugged easily and the new one inserted. It was easy to push the whole assembly back into the door. I spent more time looking for something to cut the wiring harness with (and never did find it) than the whole job actually took without needing to cut anything!

Popped out the old light switch with a butter knife from the bottom first, disconnected the plug in. Install was just the reverse. Super easy fix

Took the old one out. Washed the new one and put it in. The best part was: This company had the part in stock and we received it the next day. Amazingly fast service. Thank you very much.

Couldn't figure out how to get the old one out till I saw the new one.Pop the old one out slide the 2 wires on the new one pop it back in place,good to go.

Popped out broken switch with blunt flat edged instrument. Disconnected switch from unit . Plugged new piece in and reinserted into side panel of refrigerator. Very easy.

Order the new criper and when it came I installed it.

I removed ice bin and cover that sits ontop of the icemaker. I inserted the longer end of armwire assy first in the front part of the icemaker arm until it clicked in place then inserted the shorter end in the back side of icemaker arm and pressed until it went into the hole all the way through. This was very easy to install.

1. Unwrapped the drawer.
2. Washed the drawer.
3. Placed drawer in refrigerator.

:)

This was not a repair but rather a decision to make use of the dead space in the refrigerator door by adding another bucket to the door and relocating the other buckets accordingly. This project worked out very well and increased the shelf space by 20%. . .

Removed old agitator unit - 4 nut-head screws removed, and installed new agitator and screws aligned easily.

Disconnect plug from wall. Insert putty knife between light switch.and trim panel , apply pressure to depress plastic spring holding switch in place. Apply a slight twist too putty knife releasing switch from trim piece. This wil expose plug connected to switch. Disconnect plug from switch. Connect new switch to plug. Insert switch into trim. Plug refrigerator into wall socket.

Removed Ice carrier and diassembled the Ice carrier with a socket set. Four screws, cap came right off. Placed the new one on and finished.

Watched a Utube video

There is a plastic flapper valve that is spring-loaded in the closed position that prevents ambient room air from entering the freezer compartment via the ice chute. The Ice Chute Seal is a simple flexible (rubber-like) disk that just slips over the circular flapper valve. With the freezer door open one can see the flapper valve down the ice chute and one can reach it easily from the outside of the freezer as well. The Ice Chute Seal has 3 notches that make it very easy to remove the old seal and replace it with the new seal. This can be done by feel. I removed the old seal by pushing the flapper valve open with one hand (from the inside of the freezer door) and could then peel off the seal surrounding the flapper valve with the other hand. Once the old seal was removed I slipped the new seal around the flapper valve. No tools required, no screws needed to be removed. The problem I had with frost/ice build-up was solved; there is no more ice/frost build-up inside the freezer near the top of the ice chute. The old seal LOOKED OK but was obviously a bit too stiff to seal the opening against the warm, moist, ambient room air. I was most happy to see that this solved the problem and that it was so easy to do (really less than a minute or two!).

Followed the instructions in the video provided via email from Partselect
However, the part received was the opposite design of the part removed.
It appeared this could be left hand right hand choice of part. Moreover, the button on the switch that turns the light off/on when door is open/closed was not functional due to the part being the opposite of the part I was replacing. I tested the switch I was replacing and it appears this is not the problem. I think the light socket is the problem. I am 69 year old female and capable of doing small repairs, but limited knowledge of electrical so having to troubleshoot by trial and error. Thank you.