SC22H (P7836014W) Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

Used the suggested problem list here to narrow down that the repair was most likely the run capacitor. Poped the new one in and I now have better control of my compartment ranges. I have a temperature gauge in each compartment. Check them every opening of the doors.

Was told capacitor was problem 90% of the time.Capacior was not the problem.Bad start relay.

Like you video

I just popped out the old switch with a flat head screwdriver. Removed the connections and then installed new switch by reversing steps. Popped in back in and the light went on.

Talked to a bud who does this kind of work and he walked me thru the simple job. Also watched a you tube segment. Very easy job. Took off the front kick vent panel. Unscrewed the metal holder and unplugged old part, plugged new part in and put panel back on. Turned on unit and it is working like a charm. Got my fingers crossed just in case.

Removed the access panel on back of unit located the Run Capacitor on the compressor and removed the bad one and put the new one on and pugged refrigerator back in and it started up and works fine now

Unplug fridge, unpluged fan motor from plug socket, removed bracket screws, removed fan retainer clip from shaft. removed screws holding fan to bracket

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires... Put a thermometer in a glass of water & now runs at 38 degrees.

I removed 7 screws hold the heavy cardboard cover on the rear of the fridge. The dificult part was taking the screws that hold the 3 fan motor braces on the fan out. After that it was a matter of making the wire conections and putting it back in. I did not have enough room to laydown to do the work, If i had it would have been a lot easier to see the screws that had to be removed. All in all an easy job, and the part was a perfect fit.

inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thick. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."

Ordered new fan motor on line took out old motor and replaced with new one

The fridge door was easy. Just unscrew top and lift off hindge. The freezer door took longer. But I had the user guide which helped. We unhooked the power harness at the top of the door, and disconnected the water line at the bottom of the door.

Frankly, it wasn't that hard for me because I had my son-in-law do it!

The instruction sheet supplied with the new motor described the steps to take very good. Replaced the rubber grommets for the three motor mounts also. A flashlight or light source was needed or was very helpful.

Eased the putty knife under the edge of the switch housing and pried it off. Pulled two wires off the old terminals and hooked them onto the new one and reinstalled into the refrigerator body.

Pull refrigerator out to access back, unplug unit and remove the 3 .25" screws cut the power leads to motor and install new with easy to understand instructions provided with new motor. Plug refrigerator back in and enjoy your cold beverages once more. EASIEST REPAIR EVER.