AB2225PEKS Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

(1) Ordered PS371704 from PartSelect! Best advice EVER! (2) Unplugged refrigerator (since the water solenoid on the back of the refrigerator is powered to switch ON the water, you NEVER have to turn off the water!) (3) Pull off the refrigerator's bottom grill. (4) With a small saucer under the fittings, unscrew the black and white tube fitting. There is only one nut to remove on the white tubing side. You'll need to undo the compression fitting on the black tubing and slide off the compression nut. You'll need to MAKE SURE you keep these nuts and replace onto the black and white tubing the SAME WAY you took them off. You'll NOT need to use nut drivers as finger tight is the key. Too hard and you'll ruin these plastic nuts. You should get only about 1/8 cup or less of water during this whole exercise. (5) Cut off the old, broken water nozzle. (4) Find a screw of the appropriate size to fit tightly 1/2 way inside the new tubing (this is to ensure your old and new tubing are connected to feed through the door). If screw is not tight within the tubing, wrap part of a plastic (thin) sack around this screw a couple of times and force into the tubing. You'll, of course, then need to use the hacksaw to cut the head off the screw as you'll be forcing the other half of the screw into the old cut tubing (6) Chase the dog out of the kitchen and cajole your wife (significant other) to push the newly joined tubes through the top of the dispenser, through the door and out the bottom as you will be gently PULLING on this old tubing from the bottom until the new tubing pops through the doors bottom. (7) Once this new tubing is out, you will separate the old tubing and, using the nuts in the proper sequence, connect this new tubing to the white tubing. (8) Plug the refrigerator back in and test flow the water. Check to ensure the plastic nuts have no leakage ... button up the bottom grill ... and enjoy the fresh water! PS> Don't forget to praise the wife (significant other) and give the dog a treat for staying out of your face!!

Followed video

Just plugged it in

I took out the old one and put in the new one. For some reason the repair story associated with the ice bucket had nothing to do with ice buckets.

Removed the cover using a mirror to see how to release the clips on the rear side of the cover, removed the circuit board noting how everything was installed and also visually verified the part was the same. Broke the circuit at the designated score, installed and followed instructions for programming. All is well now.

Work was done by service tech. I ordered the arm for my mom to save time when tech came back to do the job correctly.

Just take the crisper out and just put it in the hall access

I found the instructions on line which seemed very simple but I soon learned otherwise. The instructions say to remove the water line and then firmly pull the fill tube out as it is a tight fit. I couldn't get the tube out and ended up removing the lower freezer door/tray, the upper tray and the icemaker where I found the water had frozen solid in the end of the tube. I used a hair dryer to melt the ice then I could easily remove the tube. After several attempts to install the new tube I finally inserted a 3/8" OD flex tube thru the passage then I was able to slide the new fill tube over this and get it in place. I then reinstalled the icemaker, upper tray and the door/tray assembly. Turned the water on the check for leaks then plugged the unit back in and all is working well.

The plastic fill cup part is also used to hold one end of the wire “one/off” switch that is manually activated or activated when the ice tray is full. This wire piece fell out because one end, that is part of the plastic fill cup, broke off. The wire switch was fine.

The video demos show you exactly what to do. The repair man showed me a trick to speed up the testing process. The trick is to insert a wire jumper cable to actuate the ice maker and make it rotate. But this isn’t necessary.

Hardest part of this fix is emptying the freezer (bottom with a slide out door) and removing the door.

Why this part is so expensive is beyond me. But I’m happy it was available for a 24yo fridge that still works!!

Everything went as planned except the cold temperature (freezer door switch located inside freezer) made deflection of the switch locking tab difficult to remove. Letting the switch warm up was not an option.

I checked the element and the thermostat and determined the problem to be the control board. I simply followed the instruction in the video. Everything went well until the last step, the video said to push the freezer down button. When this did not work I refered to the written instructions which told me to push the up button. That did it. Job complete. The unit is working as it should.

Emptied and disassembled the freezer. Defrosted and dried the coils. Tested the defrost heater coil ( 50 ohms ) PRT and fan - all OK. Opened the lower back panel and cleaned the water collection tray. Vacuumed out all debris including coils underneath. Reassembled everything. Removed the old control board and installed the new board paying attention to ESD steps. Applied AC power. Programmed the new board per the video link ( nicely done ). 3 weeks later and the unit seems dry and happy. Running at lower settings with good temperature results. Suspect the 24VDC relay activating the defrost heater coil on the control board or what controls the relay not working. May pull relay for test.

I just popped out the old switch with a flat head screwdriver. Removed the connections and then installed new switch by reversing steps. Popped in back in and the light went on.

Pried out old part with screwdriver. Unplugged. When new part came, just plugged it in and pushed the part into place.

Followed the video exactly as shown from the website. I do suggest using a mirror or your phone to visualize the notch to press to drop the cover.