GTG18B2L (P1192803W L) Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

I first loosened all screws that are hidden by seal leading edge. I then removed seal. I made sure that I knew which side of seal was to be in contact with refrigerator door frame to provide the seal. I positioned the seal on the door inner panel starting at the top. After I had finished positioning the top I proceeded to position both sides and then the bottom. I tightened the screws only enough to hold the seal in position. After I had the seal in the proper position I tightened the screws that hold the seal in position. I used a hair dryer to heat seal and smooth out the the sealing edge.

Replaced refrigerator cooling control. No luck. Replaced freezer cooling control. No luck. Coils were icing up. Unplugged frig and allowed coils to defrost. After more poking around, found that condenser fan was not spinning. Touch it and it'd start. That was definitely in need of replacement. Replacement was easy. Refrigerator is now running as it should.

The good news is that the part (the wheel was available.) I bought two in the event that the other wheel may break in the future. The bad news is that the housing that holds the wheel was riveted together by the wheel axle. It would have been nice to know that before I bought the part and if the housing with the wheel installed was available. The refrigerator was at my summer house a hundred miles away. Anyway, we had to grind the end of the riveted axle to dislodge it from the wheel housing. With the axle dislodged from the housing we were able to install the wheel and then hammer the end of the axle flat to keep in place, like the original rivet installation. It is not perfect but it held and should be fine. I am glad I was able to get the part and will be back in the future, if in need of other parts.

simpley place the support into slot provided.

Removed the 2 screws holding the light bulb shield, then the 4 uolding the metal panel. Unplugged the olw door switch and replaced.
reassembled the pieces.

I removed all the screws except the top screws. These screws I loosed to make sure the door shelves remained in place. I did not want to remove the refrigerator door. I had read this method on PartSelect. It worked fine. I would recommend a power drill because of the number of screws supporting the door shelves; a power drill really help.

Please note there are only 3 sides of the "new" door gasket that are magnetized. It would have been nice to identify which are the magnetized sides before I did the installation; I guess I should have read the directions before hand.

It was an easy job.

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

Repair went well,took about five to ten minutes to disconnect the power from the fridge removed the defective switch installed the new one ,reconnected the power,,,and Let there be light and there was light!

Referencing the info/schematics you have on your website, I unscrewed/unattached top-front panel (carefully), from behind the panel you have to detach the wires (2) from the switch, pushed "in" the switch to remove, put in new switch and attach wires to test BEFORE remounting panel. Tada!! Thank you PartSelect! You saved me at least $80...would have been at least $100 to have a repair person come to the house!

The hardest part of the repair was how to remove the panel the part was behind. Once we figured out where it was (behind the temperature controls in the front of the refrigerator), it was very easy to take out the old & install the new. Works perfect now.

My friend tore into the thermostat and found it no longer was working so we go onto the chat line askeing questions and ordered the part expecting it in 4-5 days standard delivery. The part arrived in two days. He attached it quickly and it is working perfectly. I will order again if I have appliance problems. I love the chat thing. Repair time with tare down and put back together probably less than one hour.

proped up frig, loosened screws, cut pin, installed rooler w/ new pin, rounded pin end, reistalled, lowered frig...everyone happy, thanks again partselect.

First of all I want to thank Michael from Carlisle,PA and this site for publishing Michael's info on the wiring specifics on the new 3 connector Start Relay ( WP2262185 ). The original relay only has 2 connectors The 2 orange wires which are combined to one female connector need to be clipped and separated each to its own connector. Refer to Michael's blog as to which wire goes to which connector on the Start Relay. I replaced the Run Capacitor, Start Relay and Overload just to be safe. The Start Relay was the actual culprit.Thank you for an excellent website!

removed back cover, removed fan motor and replaced with new one. connected new power wires. worked right away

I simply removed the old switch by gently pulling down on the old switch with a screwdriver. When it was about half way out I just gently pulled down on the old switch and it popped out... I removed the two connectors attached to the old switch by pulling on the connectors with a pliers...I tried using my fingers but wasn't able to pull the connectors off so I used pliers. It worked perfectly.. When pulling off the old connectors, make sure you attach the new switch to the same tabs on the new switch... It was very easy to do and took under 5 mins.....The light switch works perfect....P.S. You should unplug the frig while making the connection just in case....Safety first....!!!