BH20S5L (P1196501W) Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

There was water on floor at front and ice cubes in freezer were wet.
Freezer cooling cycle had become warmer.
Received part. disassembled the temperature control; i.e., pulled off the control knob; removed 3 screws holding unit to top of freezer; pulled two wires from their connectors to the old "control unit"; pushed them onto the connections of the new unit; reassembled the control to the top of the freezer with the three screws and pushed on the control knob.

bybob

Pulled off old ones and warmed new seals in warm water first to make it easier to slip on. Then I just pressed them on.

The good news is that the part (the wheel was available.) I bought two in the event that the other wheel may break in the future. The bad news is that the housing that holds the wheel was riveted together by the wheel axle. It would have been nice to know that before I bought the part and if the housing with the wheel installed was available. The refrigerator was at my summer house a hundred miles away. Anyway, we had to grind the end of the riveted axle to dislodge it from the wheel housing. With the axle dislodged from the housing we were able to install the wheel and then hammer the end of the axle flat to keep in place, like the original rivet installation. It is not perfect but it held and should be fine. I am glad I was able to get the part and will be back in the future, if in need of other parts.

Replaced refrigerator cooling control. No luck. Replaced freezer cooling control. No luck. Coils were icing up. Unplugged frig and allowed coils to defrost. After more poking around, found that condenser fan was not spinning. Touch it and it'd start. That was definitely in need of replacement. Replacement was easy. Refrigerator is now running as it should.

remove front grill. with pry bar and wooden block, elevate side with broken wheel and insert wooden block behind assemble from the exterior bottom. With roller wheel assemble lose from the wooden block remove front elevator screw from the front frame. next remove cotter pin with the pliers and pull assemble pin. next elevate assemble out. drill out axle on the crimp side insert from the hardware store one 5/16 x 21/2 bolt with nut and new wheel. reinsert assemble in the reverse order. Remove wooden block and adjust height of wheel. replace grill. job complete. good job

it was self explanatory, very quick delivery. Will use again if the need arises.

Removed the 2 screws holding the light bulb shield, then the 4 uolding the metal panel. Unplugged the olw door switch and replaced.
reassembled the pieces.

simpley place the support into slot provided.

Did the troubleshooting with online instructions and a multimeter. Bought the new thermostat. Disassembled the freezer compartment using a nut driver to expose the evaporator, etc. The thermostat was easy to locate in the upper right hand corner. The new thermostat had one wire that didn't have the correct connector on it so I stripped the wire back and used a crimp connector and heat shrink to attach the connector from the failed thermostat. After plugging the new thermostat in I ran the refrigerator for 15 minutes to cool the thermostat and then rotated the defrost timer to the defrost position and tested the new thermostat. Reassembled the freezer compartment.

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

Pretty simple really after reading online some other owners' experiences. This is a bottom freezer unit. Remove the ice maker, the tray slides, and the back cover of the freezer box. In my case I had to thaw it out with a hair dryer as the cover was frozen in place. I checked the old 'stat and found it was bad; I temporarily wired the leads together until the new 'stat arrived. It does allow the refrigerator to warm up during a defrost cycle but it beats de-icing it twice.The defrost 'stat is clipped over the refrigerant line in the upper right corner of the box. Resistance was 65k ohms and wouldn't close on low temp (tested by clipping it to an exposed refrigerant line in another upright freezer) but there was no obvious damage. The one lead on the replacement 'stat has the wrong connector so you have to cut off the original lead from the old unit and splice it on the wrong lead on the new one. I used an epoxy sealed heat shrink type butt splice. Reassemble and let it run. One word of warning: be careful tightening any screws as they will strip easily

I removed all food items from inside fridge/freezer doors.I then noticed how gaskets slip behind outter skin of both doors after removing all screws except a few on the top, inorder to keep from having entire door skin fall to the floor.Using back of spoon helps to properly fit gaskets into place without any rips.Using nut driver really helps with saving time and the "hairdryer" suggestion really helps with having gasket seat firmly around entire unit.Just take your time and pay attention to corners,they may need a little streching.

Happen to locate your site by Google. Was impressed and really pleased to find a schematic and directions to find and remove and specs to test the water valve and Defrost thermometer using an electric multimeter. You cannot tell by "looking" at a component if it is still OK.
So I put all the freezer contents into my beach cooler. The repair went as follows.
1. Removed the 6 screws from the back panel and pulled it out of the way.
2. Located the defrost thermostat and pulled it off of the coil.
3. Pulled the two connections off and took it to the bench to test. It showed no readings indicating it was dead.
4. Ordered a new one which came in two days.
5. Had to change the electrical connections using wire nuts.
6. Reversed the process plugged the refrigerator back into the wall. It started and later on I was getting ice cubes.
A great experience. Don't mess with repair guy as they normally are not up to speed on all devices and you are paying for them to learn how to repair your appliance in several trips. Probably using this site. If you can follow instructions, you can do this stuff.
Note. I tested the Water valve using given instructions. More time is used moving things around than the actual repairs. I avoided $150.00 for a new ice maker unit.

Referencing the info/schematics you have on your website, I unscrewed/unattached top-front panel (carefully), from behind the panel you have to detach the wires (2) from the switch, pushed "in" the switch to remove, put in new switch and attach wires to test BEFORE remounting panel. Tada!! Thank you PartSelect! You saved me at least $80...would have been at least $100 to have a repair person come to the house!

Repair went well,took about five to ten minutes to disconnect the power from the fridge removed the defective switch installed the new one ,reconnected the power,,,and Let there be light and there was light!