GTA18B2L (P1192602W L) Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thick. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."

Was told capacitor was problem 90% of the time.Capacior was not the problem.Bad start relay.

The old piece had broken off, so no removal of the old part was necessary.

New post snapped right into place, no tools required.

Total time for repair was less than two minutes.

Not so good that was not the problem. Fan is not seized and all the lights work and display is not on but lights up as well. No start once plugged back in after 15 minutes of being unplugged. Nothing same no change.

I ordered the post, pulled it out of the box, pulled off the glass, pulled out the drawers. I looked at where the post looked like it shoul go and put it in. put the drawers in, glass on. It took me about 5 minutes and everything is perfect.

Removed the access panel on back of unit located the Run Capacitor on the compressor and removed the bad one and put the new one on and pugged refrigerator back in and it started up and works fine now

Like you video

Used the suggested problem list here to narrow down that the repair was most likely the run capacitor. Poped the new one in and I now have better control of my compartment ranges. I have a temperature gauge in each compartment. Check them every opening of the doors.

I just popped out the old switch with a flat head screwdriver. Removed the connections and then installed new switch by reversing steps. Popped in back in and the light went on.

I did not remove the door from the fridge deciding to replace the gasket while the door was still attached. Next time I will follow their suggestion to remove the door and lay it down. I didn't realize that when you take the screws out (And there are A LOT of screws!) the whole panel comes off the door. It also took a long time to clean the door and panel with years of dirt/mildew to deal with. I had a hard time trying to get the kinks out with a hair dryer, didn't seem to work. Putting the new one on and screwing it back in place was pretty easy (would have been easier if it was laying flat). There are a couple of places where the seal is not perfect because of the kinks, but not going to worry about that.

removed upper freezer door, then removed refrig door,laid door on 2 saw horses, removed screws holding old gasket on,removed old gasket, installed new gasket as instructed by the on-line video,used an electric hair dryer to soften up gasket and work out the kinks,remounted he doors and i was done. door is back to sealing properly. the on-line video was very helpful

1) I took everything off the door.
2) I removed the door from the bottom because it was easiest doing it from the bottom
3) I layed the door on the table and proceeded to unscrew the panel that holds things
4) I removed the panel and the old gasket
5) I cleaned all around where the gasket was screwed to the door and we cleaned the panel and we cleaned the refrigerator where the seal touches the door.
6) I made sure it was all dry and I fitted the new gasket on the door and put the panel making sure it fit around the panel
7) I began replacing the screws starting at the second screw from the corner and I did all 4 corners then I proceeded to screw the screws further into the corner and finally screwed all the rest of the screws.
8) put the door back on the refrigerator.
Now be patient because at first when closing the door there are sections that you have to push on to make it seal and this can happens for about a week. But finally it seals.

removed old and instaslled new. biggest problem was getting to one of the screws.

Exposed evaporator and fan.Turned refer back on. Evaporator started to get cold but fan did not run. Removed fan and applied 115 volts. Fan did not run. Installed new fan kit. Old refer works as good as new. Vary easy job. I almost bought a new refer. Glad I didn't. Probably saved myself $500+ Shopped several sites on internet. Other sites wanted about the same price for motor only and 15-20 bucks more for the fan. Vary pleased that I found this company to buy this part. Received fan kit in just a few days.

Partition between Freezer and Fridge was running very hot. (Warm is normal). Oiling fan did not work. The only problems encountered in the replacement were getting fan out and in through coolant lines, cut plug off to accomodate generic fan wiring, getting the screws back in without cooking your hand on a hot compressor. Unit works great!