ABD2533DEQ Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

First I removed the Ice bin, I then loosened the ice bin rail under the ice maker and removed the screw that attached the bottom of the ice maker to the side of the fridge. I unplugged the power to Ice Maker from the back of the fridge and unscreewed the two screws that secured the ice maker to the fridge. This allowed the Ice Maker to be removed from the fridge. To replace the new ice maker I simply repeated the steps in reverse.

Philips head screwdriver and ten minutes was all it took! I removed the two screws that hold the icemaker assembly in place, then pulled it out a little and disconnected the electrical plug freeing the icemaker assembly. Then I snapped the external parts off my old icemaker assembly and snapped them on the new icemaker assembly. Installing the new icemaker assembly was just as fast and easy. I snapped the electrical plug into the new icemaker assembly, then screwed in the two screws. It was making ice shortly thereafter. Glob free ice! I'm glad I didn't call a repairman. I probably saved a hundred bucks. A ten year old could accomplish this simple and easy task. No wonder the Maytag repairman has time on his hands.

After moving the refrigerator away from the wall I removed the cover on the lower back of the unit by removing the screws that held it in place. The condenser fan was not turning and there was heat build up in the area causing the refrigerator to not work properly creating elevated temperatures in both the freezer and regrigerator. Removal of three torx screws from the original motor was all it took to get the motor free. By turining it and working the fan blade around the mounting bracket I had the motor out in just a few minutes. Replacing the new motor was just as easy to reinstall. The fan was removed from the old motor and placed on the new for installation. The original motor was wired to accept a connector from the wiring harness of the refrigerator. I simply cut the connector off the wiring harness and stripped the insulation from the wires which easily allowed me to connet the wires of the motor and harness with two wire nuts. Three self tapping screws were used to hold the motor in place replacing the torx screws. Installed I plugged the unit in and immediately the fan started spinning as the unit came to life. Cleaned and replaced the cover over the back and slid back into its spot. Running as good as it did when it was new. Easy job to take care of.

This is the 2nd time I had have had to replace the center rail in 2 years....

Found the coils in the freezer frosted up and no cold air getting to the refrig compartment. I first replaced the defrost timer but should have checked with a volt meter as it turned out that it was a thermostat on the coils in the freezer that was faulty, it actually had a visable defect, it was bulged out. I think that this thermostat prevents the defrost heater from over heating the coils. Replaced the defrost timer an this thermostat and all is good now.

I changed out the water valve behind the refrigerator that controls when the ice maker and water dispencer receives water. It was easy. I removed the lower back panel to get access to the valve. Pulled the hoses out by pushing up on the ring between the valve and hose and the hose came right out. I disconected the power lines. Of course the water was disconected and power plug out prior to starting the job. I replaced the valve and reconnected the lines and power. I put the back panel back in place and turned the water on to check for leaks. The next day I had ice in the ice maker.

The new Ice Maker Assembly arived in less than 24 hours. I was amazed that it came so fast.

I had already removed the old ice maker in order to get the modle number.

I just took two parts off of the old ice maker and quickly snapped them into place on the new ice maker. Then attached it to the refrigerator in less than 10 minutes. With in a few hours I had ice again !!!!!

I would definatly use partselect.com again.

Begin by turning off the water source from the wall, next using a line wrench, remove the brass water line fitting nut from the copper water line from the wall. Next remove the second water line from the plastic push fitting by depressing the fitting to release the water line. Remove the Styrofoam insulation piece that resides between the water lines that run into the refrigerator, then pull the old filter head out. Reverse steps for installation.

It's good to note, first, that the dual water valve on Amana fridges are notorious for cracking and leaking, either due to the fridge being left in the cold (the water inside the valve freezes and expands, cracking the water valve) or from issues related to shipping. Read the reviews, here - it's a common issue, but easy and cheap to fix yourself. Here's my steps. I first turned off the water source to fridge by closing the correct valve. Next, I unplugged the fridge from electrical and from the water source line. When looking at the back of the fridge, I unscrewed the bottom left cover plate from the fridge body. After unscrewing and removing the plate, I made sure to note which lines came from which areas of the fridge and where the lines ended up at the dual water valve, and how they were routed through the plate and into the valve. The way this fridge is setup, the water source line screws into a main line that heads to the top of the fridge where the water filter is (like a "line in"). There's another line that heads back down to the bottom of the fridge (line out). The "line out" inserts into the outside plug of the dual water valve. The two lines coming out of the dual water valve are different sizes. Make sure to note which line goes to the icemaker and which line goes to the water dispenser inside the fridge. Once I knew which lines needed to go where, I grabbed my empty bucket, pulled the water lines out of the dual water valve with some pliers, and emptied the water into the bucket. After cleaning up any water splatter with my dry towels, I unscrewed the dual water valve from the plate. Once the old dual water valve was removed, I replaced it with the new valve and screwed it back into the plate. I cut off just a bit of the water line ends that were damaged due to pulling with the pliers, and then inserted them back into the correct spots on the dual water valve. I screwed the plate back into the fridge, reconnected the water source line (make sure to use some kind of water sealer tape or putty), plugged the fridge back into the electrical socket, turned the water source valve back on, and waited for leaks. No leaks! Once I was convinced there weren't any leaks, I had to bleed the water lines for about 20-30 minutes (it takes FOREVER...) by putting my bucket under the water dispenser inside the fridge and holding the water button for what seemed like an eternity - until the water was streaming steadily out of the dispenser. Voila! Good as new! Keep in mind that I didn't go through ALL the minute parts of each step - that would take too long. I'm believing that you'll be perceptive enough to catch the small things like looking at how the lines are routed into the dual water valve and where things are screwed into. Use your BRAIN, and you'll be fine. :-)

Since it was apparent the crisper glass is fragile I was very careful to not stress it. I opened the box then took a large board almost as big and slid it on. I carried both items to the fridge and with both doors open slid the glass into place. I am 65 yrs. Old and have owned many refrigerators but this is a first. They don't build them like they use to. .

Freezer would get cold at bottom and some of the refrigerator. Took of freezer back panel and located freezer fan. Took a meter and saw power was getting to it, but not working. Removed fan and replaced with new on, working like a charm. Cold air was not circulating enough throughout the unit because fan was not working. It was not the thermostat or adapter control.

Followed instructions supplied. It was relatively easy and the parts fit exactly right. Sears wanted twice as much for the part and service would have charged me another $100 to come to my home. I saved over $100 doing the project myself.

Replacement of freezer door handle.
1. Removed freezer door handle. First I read the freezer door handle removal instructions in the Amana refrigerator user guide. Removing the handle requires inserting a plastic card at least 1.5 inches under the left end of the right side of the handle so it releases the butterfly clip latch on the freezer door. Next I pulled the right side of the handle to lift it away from the freezer door. Then still holding the handle away from the door, at the spot that is 1.5 inches from the inside of the right side of the handle, I held the plastic card vertically and slid one corner of it between the handle and the freezer door and worked the card down until it released the butterfly clip latch. Keeping the card at the same space under the handle so the latch was released, I then turned the card to the left until it was horizontal and was lifting the left end of the right door handle away from the freezer door. I then slid the handle across the card to the left until it cleared both door butterfly clip latches and it lifted off the door.
2. Installed freezer door handle. First I read the freezer door handle installation instructions in the Amana refrigerator user guide. The handle is curved on one edge and must be installed the curved side down. Correctly installed, the outside ends of the handle curve upward and the handle curve is down so it looks like a frowning mouth. Next holding the handle curved edge down, I turned it up so I could see the brackets and held it against the door. I lined up the handle brackets slightly to the left of the butterfly clips on the freezer door. Next I turned the handle with the brackets against the freezer door and slid it slightly to the right until the left side of the handle held onto the door butterfly clip by itself but was not latched. Then I lined up the right handle bracket with the right freezer door butterfly clip and carefully slid the whole handle to the right until I heard the left butterfly clip latch click. Next I slid the handle back slightly left once more and then slid it back to the right until I heard the right butterfly clip latch click.

I pulled the whole unit(condenser&overload relay)
with my hand & disconnected the wire connected
to it & Replaced it with the new one.Peace of cake.

Turned the old one to unseat and replaced with a new one in the reverse order.