SXDE25JP (P7870129W) Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

Old ice maker leaking water and produced ice cubes with black inclusions. First, I removed old ice maker per video instructions. Transferred electrical cable, cover, and bail to new ice maker. First installation failed because I failed to make sure water tube correctly enter back of ice maker. No ice. Initially thought electrical cable wasn't firmly in place. Then I noticed frozen water dripping down back of freezer. A clue! Removed ice maker and reinstalled making sure water tube went through the hole in back of ice maker. Now the new ice maker works beautifully!

very easy. removed the old solenoid because it was cracked and spraying water all over the floor. installed the new part, turned on water supply and that was it!! water dispenser in the door works better, it fills a glass faster and the ice maker works better too.

I removed the back cover, disconnected the water line from the valve and unplugged the wires. I went to the Parts Select website and entered the info on the part (Plastic, Electrical) and brought up several beautiful pictures that immediately allowed me to identify and order the part without ANY part or model numbers! Wonderful! 3 days later, I installed the part in reverse order and the icemaker works like new again. Thanks for making it so easy!

First I removed all the screws from the back cover.
2nd removed fan nut and fan blade
3rd removed fan bracket
4th I traced wire to the condenser and disconnected wires from wire nuts.
Installed existing fan brackets to new motor kit
then reconnected wire nuts to new motor cord
Reinstalled fan nut and blade,
reinstalled cover, plugged it in and BAM .WORKS PERF!

Moved frig away from wall, unpluged and took off lower back panel. Disconnected water line and ice maker lines from water valve (after shutting water off). Removed 2 screws, New valve was exact replacement. With new valve in hand, I removed electrical connecters one at a time and placed them on new valve. Put new valve in place, inserted 2 screws and tightened, Connected water lines, checked for leaks, moved frig back in place, job complete. No more drips, worked perfect. Total time, about 30 min.

1. Moved the firdge out so I had room to get bhind it.
2. Un-plugged the fridge so I didn't get electrocuted.
3. disconnected the the water hose from the broken water inlet with adjustable wrench.
4. Put hose in bucket to drain and moped up water from inlet valve with towel.
5. removed the 2 scrwes with socket driver that holds inlet on fridge.
6. reached in behind the inlet valve and unplugged the wires from the inlet valve (total of 2 plugs)
7. pulled the inlet valve out of the back of the fridge.
8. removed the bolt that holds the ground wire the metal plate that the inlet valve was connected to.
9. removed the defective inlet valve from the metl plate and tossed the defect valves.
10. put the metal plate on the new inlet valve.
11. screwed on the ground wire to the metal plate from new valve.
12. plugged in the 2 plugs back onto there proper locations on the inlet valve.
13. put the assembly back into place in the back of the fridge and screwed in the remaining 2 screws to hold it in place.
14. Put plumbers tape around outside of inlet to reduce leaks.
15. re-attached the hose and tightened it with the wrench.
16. turned on the water from the wall and verified there were no leaks.
17. Plugged in the fridge and tested that the water on the door worked.
18. Pushed the fridge back into place and the kids could once again enjoy water from the door of the fridge and in about 5 hours we had some ice again for our drinks.

Loosen the screws on the sidewall (don't take them all the way out and drop them on the floor as I did) and remove the screw from the bottom bracket. Change out the electrical wires and the wire level sensor that does not come with the new unit. Put the new one in place and give it some time to cool down and make ice ( don't be impatient like I was and think the new unit was bad or that you replaced the wrong part)

figured out the condenser fan was kaput. Tried WD, worked for several days then gave out completely. Took off back of fridge and trained small fan on compressor while I ordered new condenser fan. The swap was easy, undid the housing bolts, stripped off the connector, reconnected and voila! works perfect.

Just kept working on it.

I got the product very quickly. (thank you) Looked at online instructions that were quite vague. Pulled plug.Removed the holder for the fan motor slid it out to see what I had. Removed the mounting screws (3) and slid the motor an fan blade out. I made a cut between the wires and marked the "top" wire to motor to be sure to spin in right direction. Removing fan blade hold down clamp was NOT explained at all but I noted that the shaft on the motor was threaded, so I used pliars and held the shaft white un-screwing clamp. I cleaned the fan blades with degreaser and scraped edges of opening on holder opening. Make sure to use ALL the NEW parts included with this kit when re-installing. They send them for a reason. When slpicing and connecting wires it is a 50/50 shot if you don't mark before cutting. You can connect and try plugging fridge back for moment and make sure it is blowing OUT. Put everything back together and after turning DOWN the thermostats twice, fridge is back to usual. Ice maker is cranking out ice and outside case is cool to the touch.

Note: This can be a DIRTY job especially with 4 dogs in house. Fir and grease don't mix well

****Make are you order Capacitor & Starter relay too (we ordered separtely so had to pay shipping twice)**** Super easy just open access panel on back near compressor and remove retention clip with fingers, remove & replace both capacitor & starter, put clip and access panel back on, plug in and allow 8 hours to cool! Works like new again! Hope it goes another 10 years

I did not do the repair yet, there is no schematic on how to route the hose; also no description of how to do the routing/connections.

I'm sharing this story because what appeared to be the fault of a defective water inlet valve, turned out to be something else. Maybe it will be helpful to you. Because the refrigerator and not been hooked up to water for several months, several knowledgeable people suggested I replace the solenoid valve, as its malfunction was the likely problem. I did so, without results. That is, still no water or ice. Then I remembered, the door with the dispensers had been removed and replaced at the beginning of the period in which there was no water hook-up. Looking for some other reason the dispensers did not work, it occurred to me it might be the wiring from the door to the body of the refrigerator, and so it was. When the door was reinstalled, they misaligned the four-wire plug, resulting in faulty connections. When I rotated the plug to get the colored wires to match up, everything worked as it should. Had I thought of that first, I could have saved $70 on a valve I did not need.

inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thick. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."

First i used a nut driver to remove the bottom screw, the unclipped the two top clips by leaningthe bottom of the unit outwards. I used a mirror to see the two top clips as i could not see inside. Then i removed the wiring harness from the refrigerator. The unit came right out, i transerred the needed parts, and re-installed. Not too bad - about 45 mins. It works great!