ARB9059CS (PARB9059CS1) Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

We have a bottom freezer refridgerator that kept having ice build-up in the freezer. We thought it was being caused by people (kids) not fully closing the freezer door. The ice build-up was really thick especially behind the rear cover. i defrosted the freezer about 3 times and it kept happening. We replace the timer (PS2065577) and have not had a problem since. The timer is actually in the refridgerator compartment , but controls the defrost cycle in the freezer.

removed ice maker and wire shelf. removed back panel screws and tilted forward. removed 2 screws holding motor bracket. swapped fan blade and reassembled

For the timer, I removed the upper light panel in the refrigerator with a screwdriver and the defrost timer is just plugged in. Easy fix, however most websites were saying it was located down by the kickplate. The thermostat was I think was te real culprit of my problem. I removed the back plate of the freezer after removing the pullout drawers. It just took four screws. The vent/grill just pops out if squeeze it to one side and slide out the other. Then swivel out door. Note that I do not have the ice maker installed in mine so yours may have a another step. I unplugged the refrigerator at this point and grabbed my blow dryer. I melted all the ice that had formed on condenser. The thermostat is located to the right of the fan. Unclip old thermostat and snip wires with enough slack to attach new one. Attach with wire nuts, reclip and start moving in reverse back to the beginning. 7days and no problems!

first I looked into the refrigerator for blockage of air flow.
none found, I looked into the freezer area to see if fan was working ,it was, noticed ice built up on the outside of the metal cover letting me know it was not defrosting ,It was easier for myself to pull freezer door off , then the ice-maker,only three 1/4" hex head bolts,two 1/4" hex bolts only holding the metal cover . The quickest way to defrost was using a blow hair drier .once it was all defrosted I disconnected the defrost heater and using a volt/ohm meter,I ohm out the element,finding out I had no reading .The one thing I forgot to mention, unplug the frigertor first !!!

Removed two screws that held cover plate. remove cover plate. Remove water hose, and clamp, by compressing clamp with pliers. Remove fill tube by pulling HARD, from back.

Replace fill tube, check to be sure that it entered ice maker properly. Replace hose and clamp.
Replace cover and screws.

I didn't know what the plastic was - just that it was unappetizing. Reading other posts, it must have been the teflon coating. The refrigerator is 13 years old and reading other posts, I guess I'm lucky it lasted that long.

My boyfriend did the repair and here is his story:

The first ice maker we received was cracked on one corner. Not knowing how it got that way, I was concerned that there might be additional internal damage and that the unit wouldn’t work properly. Part Select was contacted and a replacement unit was sent with no difficulty.
As other reviewers have said, the replacement was quite easy, taking less than half an hour. The only tools I needed were a screwdriver and a nut driver. To begin, unplug the refrigerator and turn off the water supply to the ice maker. Loosen, but do not remove, the two top attachment screws. Then remove the bottom screw. Lift the unit up off the top screws and remove the water inlet hose at the top right. It’s probably a good idea to have a container handy to catch the small amount of water that comes out, but you’ll need a third hand for this.
The electrical wiring harness is very short and may be tricky to disconnect. On my refrigerator there is a round vinyl connector that plugs into a receptacle on the back wall of the freezer compartment directly behind the ice maker. This was removed with no difficulty (accidently, actually). Once the unit is out of the refrigerator you can remove the connector from the ice maker by using a screwdriver to depress the latch tab that is visible in a window in the unit housing. When installing the connector in the new unit make sure it is fully seated. Next, reconnect the round vinyl connector to the receptacle on the back wall of the freezer compartment. This was the worst part of the whole procedure. You have to support the unit close to the back of the freezer (due to the short harness) with one hand while inserting the connector with the other. This requires both arms in a confined space. The first time I did it I apparently didn’t get a good electrical connection on one end of the harness, and it didn’t work. Because the connectors are directly behind the ice maker I had to remove the unit and re-install it, but it was much quicker the second time, less than 10 minutes.
Once the connectors are in place put the water inlet hose into the opening at the top right. You may need to re-use the retaining clip from the old unit for this. Slide the two top mounting ears down between the screw heads and the back wall of the freezer compartment and tighten the screws. Then install the bottom screw. Plug in the refrigerator, turn on the water and make yourself a frosty beverage.
All in all, a relatively quick and painless procedure.

Another note - we kept saying "is there ice yet"? I think the metal bar that controls the ice maker needed to be raised and lowered a few times before it would work properly as it seemed to raise 1/2 way but the ice would not drop so I put it down and it worked its way up. Had to do it a couple of times over a 4 hour span but once going, it is working like a champ.

unscrewed to removed old and screwed in new

I used a flat screwdriver and released the lock tab on the bottom of the light switch, and pried the switch out, being careful to not damage the plastic around the mounting place of the switch, unplugged wiring from old switch, plugged in the new one and pushed the new switch into place. Job finished light switch now working.

First I removed the 14.3 tons of freezer contents, closed the water valve, shut off the juice, and removed the freezer bins, the freezer door and the three screws that held the element in place. After bringing in 397 hand tools from my garage inventory, I loosened the unit and, after extensive evaluation, I finally disconnected the wiring connector from its freezer rear wall connector counterpart. You ain't gonna believe the rest of my story--of total ineptitude by an experienced fix-it-yourself dummy.

I searched the internet for a replacement ice maker and found it at partselect.com. I called Sears to ask if I could add my refrigerator to my existing appliance repair account. Sears said sure--it would cost me only one arm, three toes and one grandchild. I abruptly declined their magnanimous offer—I don’t give up my arms and toes so easily.

I visited the local Maytag repair parts and service retailer, who advised they didn't do parts anymore. Expecting their repair price would be greater than Sears, I resorted to partselect.com. I called them to be assured what I was buying was not mistakenly a 747 Landing Gear. On the afternoon (West Coast) of 4/28/10, I ordered (via internet) one PS21215123 Ice Maker Assy. Much to my pleasant surprise, it arrived via FedEX on 4/30/10 (no freight charges to me).

My repair/replacement efforts were hampered by the effects of my right rotator cuff surgery a few months before and major left wrist surgery two months ago to remove fractured bones and torn ligaments.

Undaunted by my physical handicaps, I forged forward. After re-installing the unit, I turned the water supply and electricity back on. It was graveyard dead. I wisely then bought two bags of ice as an interim solution to the severe needs of my wife and me for our daily chilled evening cocktails. I removed the unit, checked it out and re-installed it. I bought two more bags of ice. All the while, I turned the water and electricity off and on as required by reasonable safety standards. High tediousness!

Several more home maintenance tasks then arose for Sergeant Super Fixer, but I returned to the ice maker problem on 4/8/10. Last chance--remove the device and insure there was no frozen ice in the inlet tube--or call the local partsless repairman. No ice found, but I did learn the wiring connector to the unit was awry--no contact! While explaining that to my wife, I realized the two upper mounting screws were intended to be partially installed into the freezer wall to accommodate the unit's slotted mounting holes! Then, tighten the screws. Oh my God! During my 143 installations and removals, I had installed those screws blindly--using the (handicapped) skills of my right and left hands without any benefit of direct eyesight.

I returned to my challenging project this morning (4/9/10), fully utilizing all the expertise I had gained yesterday. Fifteen minutes of amusing effort! Turn on the juice! Turn on the water!Two hours later, ice cubes were dropping into the bin like rhinoceros bisquits in the jungle.

Hallelujah! I now am free for the next challenge!

HINT: Put a bed pillow (an old one, or your wife's) in the freezer compartment to soften the harshness of its cold metal on your back, if you use the "crawl in on your back" approach.

I just opened up the fridge back panel accessed the old relay/capacitor, pulled it out, replaced with the new one, snapped it back into place, tested it (compressor came on), replaced the back panel and went on my way. Really, really easy repair.

Problem: My Maytag side by side door refrigerator just stopped cooling and has to discard all frozen items after I discovered being away for 3 days. First, I went to my computer and read some of the repair stories at Part Select “Need help with your repair?” and installation video guide.
1. I ordered the Refrigerator Adaptive Defrost Board (ADP) - followed the procedures how to disconnect and installed the new part. Unfortunately, it did not correct the problem and only warm is coming out.
2. I ordered the Defrost Heater Thermostat Assembly - removed the old and replaced with new assembly. Again, warm air coming out. Meanwhile, I kept on hearing “clicking sound every few second” not knowing where this coming from. Again, at Part Select, I read the story about it and I ordered the
Run Capacitor and the Overload/Relay with Capacitor. Soon as I opened the parts and tried to match it from the part at the back of the refrigerator and to the part from the compressor, I have discovered that they are not in compatible with the original parts from my Maytag Refrigerator and cannot be installed. And so I contacted (Email) Part Select customer service (Jeanette) if I could return the unused parts and had provided me the “Return address and the Reference Number”. This time, I gave Jeanette the Maytag Model and Serial numbers and asked where I could find this on my refrigerator and make the necessary repair and came back with the diagram and located #4 to the compressor. Ordered the correct part# PS2004058.
3. Upon receipt of the part above, I was puzzled, in the plastic container are four parts, included a plastic cover. I have not given up, I removed the original part encased in white plastic container pulled straight off the compressor and examined it closely. Before detaching all the wiring, I also noted before disconnecting from wire harness and read the Diagram/Instruction Sheet provided.
4. From the four new parts provided, installed the Overload Terminal, bottom part on Compressor with one terminal to the Blue wire. Connected White Jumper to the old harness. Lastly, I plugged the PTC Start Device (two terminals) above the Overload Terminal on the Compressor with the proper wiring as I previously noted and installed the electrical cover. “Plugged in the refrigerator to the power outlet”. To test the result, I left a glass of water inside the freezer and a bottle of wine into the refrigerator. The result - I checked after 2 hours, the water was frozen and a cool wine. “Little frustration included here, as I am not an electrician.” But now, I could say, I fixed it, and very proud of this accomplishment.
Thank You, PartSelect and to a great Customer Support!
Safety Note: Always make sure to unplugged the refrigerator (power off) prior doing the necessary repairs.
Rodolfo Julao/S. San Francisco, CA

An easy job for smaller hands. Removed the two bolts holding the light cover. Removed two electrical connections from the old switch by pinching the retaining clip,removed the switch, snapped in the new one and re-attached the connectors. Your online illustrations helped me to know that the plastic housing for the light switch would only swing down so far and was not intended to be removed. Saved me from breaking that plastic cover's tabs. This home repair saved me more than 5 times the cost of hiring a professional to do it. Very happy homeowner.

rmv panel (5min) rmv fan/motor 3 screws (10 m) cut wire 2in from motor, re route remainder of wire to front so can strip for wire nuts. ( 10m) attach old fan to new motor, place in old opening ,3 screws, a little fussy to align, ( 15m ) route and strip wire from new motor , zip ties work well, wire nuts , plug in fridge vola, no noise, close up, reverse panel. ( 20m). i also took time to clean grilles with small vac and damp rag, ( looks and sounds like new) bob Wi.

The lid that covers the front of the lower meat / produce drawer hinges upward on two small ( easily broken) plasic pins, one on each side of the drawer. One pin is moulded into each "END CAP" that also supports the drawer glides and glass shelf above. The entire end cap must be replaced to repair the hinge. The left side is easy (it's the only one I had to replace); the right side might be more difficult because the right end cap includes a temperature control.
1) Remove the two produce drawers above the lower drawer.
2) Lift off the front glass shelf support, the glass shelf, and the rear glass shelf support from below the two produce drawers.
3) Slide the lower drawer half way out. Remove the drawer lid by disengaging it from the remaining undamaged hinge pin on the OK end cap. Careful not to break the good one.
4) Slide the lower drawer all the way out, then lift up and towards you to remove it from its glides.
5) Using a 1/4" nutdriver or socket, remove the three recessed screws. Leave the drawer glide alone for now.
6) Pull the front of the end cap up and towards you about 3/4" to disengage it from a small retainig button at the top front. Pull the end cap toward you to disengage the two rear retaining fingers.
7) Using a small Phillips screwdriver, remove the drawer glide from the broken end cap and attach it to the replacement end cap. Note which end is the front before removing it.
8) Reassemble in reverse order. Again, be careful with the hinge pins.

Original parts froze when the fridge was stored in the garage, so when we brought it in and hooked up the water supply we discovered the cracks.

I used a wrench to remove the back lower cover of the fridge. attached to that cover were both the parts I needed to replace. I removed one nut each per part so they were free of the back cover. Once free I unhooked the two electrical plugs per part and reattached the new part so as not to confuse the positions of the wiring. Then I did the same thing with the two hoses attached to each part, swapping old part for new. Once connected, I reattached the new parts to the back cover and replaced the back cover to the fridge. Connected the water line and tried the ice maker and water source on the door. I didn't realize it, but the filter, located in the refrigerator side of the unit had also frozen and cracked, so I had water now pouring from the fridge! Replaced that filter, cleaned up the water and everything is working great!

800 number customer service person Kim originally helped me locate the correct parts via schematic diagram, as no part numbers were visible on my broken parts. She was incredibly helpful and got the correct parts on her first guess ( she told me it was a guess but she was right on the money).