TRGI18J (P7791103W) Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

The video of the repair is a helpful guide, but my refrigerator has the compressor very close to the condenser fan motor. With the compressor comes the copper tubing that is all in the way. I had to carefully bend them now and then to allow me to get my hands in position. The how to is easy, but the working with tools in cramped quarters was difficult. I think my Maytag side by side model makes for this job to be difficult, maybe yours may not be so bad. I took a couple of hours to complete. After the first hour, I covered the bare wires, and plugged the frig back in so it could do some cooling. I placed a small in front on the condenser to blow across it. Had a little break, then finished the job.

Removed the old fan; cut the wire and spliced in the new fan and reassembled. A little over one hour. Refrig is working perfectly now with lower settings. It is definitely off much more than on now.

First, watched video on Part Select Website. Very good. Pulled Appliance out from wall, Pulled the power plug, and removed the back shield covering the working parts of the unit. Found the fan and it was almost the same setup as on the video except that I could not get to one of the screws holding the motor in place so had to remove the entire bracket with the fan. Not too hard. Cleaned away dust and gunk around the site and noticed that the fan pulled air through a tunnel-like condenser coil that was packed with gunky lint...this is what probably killed the motor. I cleaned out the tunnel with the bottle brushes and vacuum and installed the new motor / bracket assembly. Then replaced the shielding around the fan and the back cover .panel. This is important because these form the channel that guides air flow throughout the condenser coils. This particular refrigerator has a barrier underneath which guides air flow from the front left to the condenser, through the fan, over the evaporator drip pan and out the right front. I cleaned all the lint and gunk from this area as well. I also made an air filter (cut from a furnace filter) and wedged it in front of the air entry section. This should keep the condenser coil cleaner over time but you have to remember to change the filter once a year. Probably should clean the condenser coil every 5 years as well. This unit has been very reliable over 20 years and may well go for another 20. Good luck with your repair.

It wasn't quite as easy to get to the bolts as the video showed. The lay out of the part wasn't exactly like the video either. However, I managed to put the new part in. Unfortunately, it didn't solve the problem. At first the fridge cycled on and off but after 12 hrs it started to freeze liquids again. Since the appliance was 17 years old we opted to just get a new one.

Well I could what laid on the floor and replaced it but I didn't I emptied refrigerator laid it over change the motor then stood it back up actual work about three hours

Pulled refridgerator forward away from the wall. Remove the cardboard back behind the appliance.I saw that the condenser fan motor was not working. Unplugged the appliance from the electrical outlet. Removed a 3 wire plug from the condenser fan motor. Remove 3 screws (with a nut driver) which held the condenser fan motor in place. Remove the condenser fan motor from the appliance. Looked up the part needed for repair using the appliance model number. Found which part was applicable for the appliance. Placed the order from Price Select on a Monday morning and recieved the part 2 days later on Wednesday via FedEx. The item shipped was a 2 wire condenser fan motor. Read the instructions that came with the part. Using wire cutters, cut the old 3 wire plug. The center wire is a green and yellow striped wire. Use the same colored wire that is also shipped in the box and has connectors on both ends. Cut one of the connectors off and use the wire strippers to remove plastic wire coating. Connect both ends from the appliance and the green and yellow wire that was shipped. Use a wire nut (also shipped in the box) to connect the wires. You will have 2 black wires left on the new condenser fan motor that need to be connected to the appliance. You should have an orange colored wire and another wire that is black with a white stripe. Connect one wire from the new fan motor to the orange wire and use a wire nut to attach both wires together. Use the other black wire from the new fan motor to the black/white striped wire from the appliance. Use the wire nut to attach both those wires. Place the new condenser fan motor back in the appliance using the screws that come with the motor. Attach the green and white wire with the connector on the end to one of the 3 screws that hold the motor in place and secure the screws. Use the electical tape to hold the wires all together and away from the fan motor. Plug the appliance into the outlet. You can see the condenser fan motor working properly. Note that when connecting the 2 black wires from the new condenser fan motor to the orange and the black/white wire from the appliance, for my appliance, it did not matter which wires were connected as the fan motor was a clockwise motor. Place the cardboard appliance backing, back on to the appliance and push the refridgerator back in place. Allow about 5-6 hours to get the freezer to between 0-5 degrees. The refidgerator should be between 34-38 degrees and will take a little longer to get to that projected temp.

followed the video as instructed. Saved two repairman calls, one to find the problem, one to install. Net savings was about $130.00

Pulled the fridge out, Took bottom panel off. Removed 3 screws holding motor. Unplugged connector, cut wires, attached old connector on new motor. put blade on new motor.installed in fridge, put cover back on.

Mine was alittle different than the online instructions. 1. I removed the motor. 2. I took the fan off the old motor and cut the wires about 3" back from old motor. 3. Mounted the new fan on bracket and put the fan on the new motor. 4.connected wires that were cut and used wire nuts to connect. 5. Mounted bracket and motor/fan to unit and it works like its brand new. Thank you PartSelect!

Removed the six screws holding the bottom access plate found at the rear of the refrigerator. This gives you easy access to the run capacitor that has a retaining clip. Remove the wire clip and pull out the capacitor (it has two quick disconnect terminals). Reverse the process using the new run capacitor to complete the repair.

After receiving the new part almost immediately,using two screw drivers, removed the broken switch from the plastic frame. Be careful not to scratch or otherwise tear the plastic...very pliable. Since the original switch was factory installed and the wires were packed in fiberglass insulation, the switch came out but the wires and clips were still in place and could not reach the new switch. It was necessary to pull them down with bent long nose pliers...used a lot of "pull" but the wires held up.Connected the switch, turned the power on and there was light! Reports from other users really took the uncertainty out of the task.

I found the condenser fan was not working so I bought a new condenser fan kit and installed it. Fixed!

Moved fridge out from wall, unplugged power cord. Laid on floor, removed 6 screws from cover. Removed one threaded bolt to allow assembly to slide out. Removed special nut, and took fan off. Removed 3 motor mounting bolts. Unscrewed 2 wire nuts, and untwisted wires. (option 1, no ground) Vacuumed entire area around motor. Used 3 bolts to mount motor to holder assembly, and special nut to install fan. Stripped wires back about 3/4 inch. Twisted two wires together CW, and installed new wire nuts. Slid motor assembly back into slot,(keep wires away from blades) and used one threaded bolt to secure assembly. Reinstalled cover plate with 6 screws. Plugged power cord in to test air flow (out through cover vents). Moved fridge back into place. The loud whirring noise did not stop for a day; then quiet!

I tried to remove the old light switch using a putty knife and a hammer. It was hard to compress the plastic tabs to pull it back through the hole, but all of a sudden, the lights came on. I guess banging on the switch freed-up the contacts. The new switch is now a spare part in case I need it.

Ordered timer-defroster motor and replaced. Very difficult to remove the two screws since there was little room to apply the tools.