GT2424NXCW Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

I just replaced my defrost thermostat after using the place-in-ice-water method, and I think it may not have been necessary. My timeline: my fridge was not getting cold enough. I realized it the day before going on a trip. I vacuumed the (very dusty) coils at the bottom, and the next morning the fridge seemed colder, but I thought I should order parts just in case. I ordered a heater and a thermostat. The fridge seemed to be operating normally when I returned from my trip, but I had the parts, so I thought I'd go ahead and dismantle the freezer and test the existing parts. My intention was to return both parts if the old ones passed the tests. I opened up the back of the freezer and there was no ice on the fins. I thought, great, the existing heater works! I cut out the thermostat, placed it in ice water, and didn't get continuity. So I decided to go ahead and put in the new thermostat. Because I'm not experienced with using a multimeter, I thought I'd test the new thermostat to see how the test should work. To my surprise, the new thermostat also failed the test! Stumped, I thought I might as well install the new thermostat, since I had opened the package and couldn't return it.
Further internet research suggests the place-in-ice-water method of testing is not adequate. One YouTube video by Parts Dr says to place the part in a working freezer. I froze my old thermostat and tested it; still no continuity. This thermostat may not be typical, though. The video discussed the temperature ratings on thermostats. The temperature rating on both (old and new) thermostats is L8.9-16.7C. That converts to 48-63 degrees fahrenheit, which obviously are not freezing temperatures. I'm not convinced I needed a new thermostat, but I trusted the videos I consulted earlier.
I cleaned the fridge thoroughly, so at least now I have a nice clean fridge to show for my efforts.

The first part I changed was the defrost timer but it did
not solve the problem, I replaced the bi-metal defrost sensor
and I have the same problem.

I can defrost by turning the clock manually and heater works.



























problem.

I pressed the end caps onto the retaining bar. Lined up the tabs and pressed the retaining bar back in place. The first side went in very easy. The second side was a little harder due to the tension of the bar and getting the plastic tabs lined up correctly and snapping them in place. Less than 15 minutes and the shelf retaining bar was fixed.

Unplug refrigerator.
Pry switch out with putty knife
Remove two wires from switch
Attach wires to new switch
Push new switch into slot

I removed the old one and replaced with the new one. The right side one was quite easy whereas the left one took a longer time.

I just popped out the old switch with a flat head screwdriver. Removed the connections and then installed new switch by reversing steps. Popped in back in and the light went on.

snapped in the new parts - took less than 30 sec. Best part about this company is their incredibly speedy ship time.

I replaced the broken end caps by inserting the new ones into the ends of the retaining bar and then inserted the entire piece into the slots of the refrigerator where the bars were missing because the end caps weren't holding the retaining bar and I had to place them in a safe place outside of the refrigerator. Too easy. I'm just glad it was such an easy fix. I'm thankful for this site, the value was great, service quick and my life is now a little easier.

Removed the old cap from the metal bar. Slipped the new cap on the bar. Fit the bar back into the slots in the frig door.

It was perfect. The part arrived on time. The fix was quick. And simple.

The repair required no tools and was simple. I ordered the part on Sunday and I received it on Wednesday. The website was very user friendly. I'm very happy and satisfied. Thank you.

Removed screws securing the inner door compartment, installed new gasket on door compartment and reinstalled inner door compartment.

Please bear in mind I am 65 years old & it was harder to get up & down off the floor then to change the switch. Was very easy - watched video, unplugged unit. I used the putty knife at the right front corner to work loose, when it came loose had to loose the left side a little. The unit pulled out easily. detached the wired that had a single plug with 2 prongs on it. Attached the plug, pushed new switch into place. There was no way you could place wires on wrong prong. When done, plugged refrigerator back in & checked if working. I CAN SEE THE LIGHT and the food in the freezer now. Thank you for making an easy repair.

Took out lower shelf. Unscrewed screws holding two broken shelf supports and removed broken supports. Replaced with new supports and screwed in the screws. Nothing to it.

At first I went to a local part supplier and they didn't have it in stock but could order it for me for $55.00 plus $10.00 to ship it. I told them I would have to think about it. I went home and got on the computer and found your web site and was I shocked when I saw the same part listed for $6.98 and $7.00 to ship it. You guys saved me $50.00. The part arrived in two day and took 5 min. to install. I now have light in my refrigerator. Thank you.

After disconnecting the electricity. I followed the instructions as indicated in the "HOW TO" article on the website. I used a steel putty knife and pried the light switch out of its retaining hole. I worked the right side the most since this is the side with the retaining clip. After I removed the switch I transferred the two electrical outlets to the new switch and easily snapped it into place. Engaged the electric power and tested the switch.