ABD2233DEB0 Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

The new Ice Maker Assembly arived in less than 24 hours. I was amazed that it came so fast.

I had already removed the old ice maker in order to get the modle number.

I just took two parts off of the old ice maker and quickly snapped them into place on the new ice maker. Then attached it to the refrigerator in less than 10 minutes. With in a few hours I had ice again !!!!!

I would definatly use partselect.com again.

Inside the food section above the top shelf behind the light in the back, remove the lid from the cover in lifting from the lower edge no tools necessary here. Remove two screws with Phillips screw driver remove entire housing inclusive Styrofoam insert. Unplug damper Control Unit. Remove two screws and remove damper control unit and replace in reverse order. Finally that refrigerator is quiet, I should have done this long time ago. Unbelievable this is the second part I have to replace on this expensive refrigerator.

It's good to note, first, that the dual water valve on Amana fridges are notorious for cracking and leaking, either due to the fridge being left in the cold (the water inside the valve freezes and expands, cracking the water valve) or from issues related to shipping. Read the reviews, here - it's a common issue, but easy and cheap to fix yourself. Here's my steps. I first turned off the water source to fridge by closing the correct valve. Next, I unplugged the fridge from electrical and from the water source line. When looking at the back of the fridge, I unscrewed the bottom left cover plate from the fridge body. After unscrewing and removing the plate, I made sure to note which lines came from which areas of the fridge and where the lines ended up at the dual water valve, and how they were routed through the plate and into the valve. The way this fridge is setup, the water source line screws into a main line that heads to the top of the fridge where the water filter is (like a "line in"). There's another line that heads back down to the bottom of the fridge (line out). The "line out" inserts into the outside plug of the dual water valve. The two lines coming out of the dual water valve are different sizes. Make sure to note which line goes to the icemaker and which line goes to the water dispenser inside the fridge. Once I knew which lines needed to go where, I grabbed my empty bucket, pulled the water lines out of the dual water valve with some pliers, and emptied the water into the bucket. After cleaning up any water splatter with my dry towels, I unscrewed the dual water valve from the plate. Once the old dual water valve was removed, I replaced it with the new valve and screwed it back into the plate. I cut off just a bit of the water line ends that were damaged due to pulling with the pliers, and then inserted them back into the correct spots on the dual water valve. I screwed the plate back into the fridge, reconnected the water source line (make sure to use some kind of water sealer tape or putty), plugged the fridge back into the electrical socket, turned the water source valve back on, and waited for leaks. No leaks! Once I was convinced there weren't any leaks, I had to bleed the water lines for about 20-30 minutes (it takes FOREVER...) by putting my bucket under the water dispenser inside the fridge and holding the water button for what seemed like an eternity - until the water was streaming steadily out of the dispenser. Voila! Good as new! Keep in mind that I didn't go through ALL the minute parts of each step - that would take too long. I'm believing that you'll be perceptive enough to catch the small things like looking at how the lines are routed into the dual water valve and where things are screwed into. Use your BRAIN, and you'll be fine. :-)

Freezer would get cold at bottom and some of the refrigerator. Took of freezer back panel and located freezer fan. Took a meter and saw power was getting to it, but not working. Removed fan and replaced with new on, working like a charm. Cold air was not circulating enough throughout the unit because fan was not working. It was not the thermostat or adapter control.

Replacement of freezer door handle.
1. Removed freezer door handle. First I read the freezer door handle removal instructions in the Amana refrigerator user guide. Removing the handle requires inserting a plastic card at least 1.5 inches under the left end of the right side of the handle so it releases the butterfly clip latch on the freezer door. Next I pulled the right side of the handle to lift it away from the freezer door. Then still holding the handle away from the door, at the spot that is 1.5 inches from the inside of the right side of the handle, I held the plastic card vertically and slid one corner of it between the handle and the freezer door and worked the card down until it released the butterfly clip latch. Keeping the card at the same space under the handle so the latch was released, I then turned the card to the left until it was horizontal and was lifting the left end of the right door handle away from the freezer door. I then slid the handle across the card to the left until it cleared both door butterfly clip latches and it lifted off the door.
2. Installed freezer door handle. First I read the freezer door handle installation instructions in the Amana refrigerator user guide. The handle is curved on one edge and must be installed the curved side down. Correctly installed, the outside ends of the handle curve upward and the handle curve is down so it looks like a frowning mouth. Next holding the handle curved edge down, I turned it up so I could see the brackets and held it against the door. I lined up the handle brackets slightly to the left of the butterfly clips on the freezer door. Next I turned the handle with the brackets against the freezer door and slid it slightly to the right until the left side of the handle held onto the door butterfly clip by itself but was not latched. Then I lined up the right handle bracket with the right freezer door butterfly clip and carefully slid the whole handle to the right until I heard the left butterfly clip latch click. Next I slid the handle back slightly left once more and then slid it back to the right until I heard the right butterfly clip latch click.

Took drawers out, inserted the rail and put the drawers back in and voila. Fixed.

I started by unplugging the unit, then removing the air outlet cover, then the housing & foam insulation. Next ,I disconnected the harnesses & unsnapped the damper assy., & put the new one in. Total repair time was about 10 minutes. I did buy the repair manual, but it was special order & arrived after I made the repair. I am an automotive technician, & this was a very simple repair for me.

Followed instructions supplied. It was relatively easy and the parts fit exactly right. Sears wanted twice as much for the part and service would have charged me another $100 to come to my home. I saved over $100 doing the project myself.

Turned the old one to unseat and replaced with a new one in the reverse order.

Removed the ice maker. Removed the screws holding the back panel in place. Unplugged the fridge, cut the wires for the defrost thermostat and installed the new thermostat with the connectors provided. For anyone with a similar problem, I would recommend getting a multi-tester and testing the Defrost timer, defrost thermostat, and defrost heater all the same time according to the directions on this site. Then order the parts that are bad and be up and running in no time.

Refrigerator was stored for about 2 years and we picked it up when the owner decided to move into an apartment and no longer needed to unit (lost home to foreclosure). Brought the unit home and it worked great for about 3 days. On the third day my wife noticed a slight electrical burning smell. I did also and quickly emptied the unit and hoped for the best. The unit did indeed stop working. I fancy myself a do it myselfer but I would normally not go near electricity but thought what the heck it was free if i ruin it I would give it away. After a little research i found Partselect and they had a great design and a few stories that sounded similar so i pulled the relay capacitor for the compressor and sure enough the unit showed burn marks where the unit had shorted out. Maybe a bug got in there or water, dirt but I ordered the part. I arrived in two days which was great. I installed the part and plug the unit in and crossed my fingers. Very happily the unit clicked on and has been running great ever since. thanks Partselect, while I may not be one of your big customers I will refer anyone with appliance issues to your site first.

It was great. We replaced the thermistor A little difficult to get to the thermistor but once we found it five minutes. My refrigerator seems happy but we will monitor it and see.

Removed timer. Tested timer with a continuity tester-seemed ok. Checked heater element-30 ohms-checked ok. Defrost thermostat measured 53k ohms when it was cold or warm. Should be open at room temperature and closed when cold. Part Select recommended changing the heater when you replace the thermostat. I was not able to slide the heating element out of freezer coils without removing coils. Put the old element back in. Seems to work ok. Thanks.

I unplugged the fridge. Loosened the 2 top screws on the ice maker and removed the lower screw. I disconnected the wiring harness and removed the Ice maker. I removed the plastic timer cover in front. I then loosened the screws on the face of the ice maker and removed the broken ice stripper and replaced it with a new one. Re-tightened the screws on the face, installed the timer cover, plugged in the wiring harness, re-attached the ice maker. Plugged the fridge back in and walla, it was making ice in 30 minutes!

I removed the back panel. I used my hair dryer to remove the build up ice. Then I removed the old thermostat, spliced the wires to install the new thermostat, and crimped the wires. I saved $150 doing it myself. If you know how to splice and crimp wires, you can do this; even a caveman can do it.