BR20K-P7812502W Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

i never bothered to fix the handle untill after repeated "honey do's" to fix it from my honey. didnt realise that after 15 years that i could get a part for it. thanks parts select. two screws and i was done.

1- Remove food from freezer and store in ice chest
2- Turn off refrigerator
3- Remove freezer drawers, 2 drawers, no fastener
4- Remove freezer slide out drawer front , 2 screws
5- Remove ice cube tray holder, 2 screws
6- De-ice back panel with hair dryer / blower
7- Remove back panel in freezer, 8 screws
8- Defrost refrig coil with hair dryer / blower
9- Unplug Bimetal Thermostat, 2 wires, orang / brn
10- Remove Bimetal Thermostat from coil, 1 clip
11- Install new Bimetal Thermostat
12- Re-assemble, reverse order

I got the product very quickly. (thank you) Looked at online instructions that were quite vague. Pulled plug.Removed the holder for the fan motor slid it out to see what I had. Removed the mounting screws (3) and slid the motor an fan blade out. I made a cut between the wires and marked the "top" wire to motor to be sure to spin in right direction. Removing fan blade hold down clamp was NOT explained at all but I noted that the shaft on the motor was threaded, so I used pliars and held the shaft white un-screwing clamp. I cleaned the fan blades with degreaser and scraped edges of opening on holder opening. Make sure to use ALL the NEW parts included with this kit when re-installing. They send them for a reason. When slpicing and connecting wires it is a 50/50 shot if you don't mark before cutting. You can connect and try plugging fridge back for moment and make sure it is blowing OUT. Put everything back together and after turning DOWN the thermostats twice, fridge is back to usual. Ice maker is cranking out ice and outside case is cool to the touch.

Note: This can be a DIRTY job especially with 4 dogs in house. Fir and grease don't mix well

replacement was relative easy. The problem came with wire connector that had to be cut, stripped and crimped. The crimping was the dificult part. the connector was a problem to crimp.

****Make are you order Capacitor & Starter relay too (we ordered separtely so had to pay shipping twice)**** Super easy just open access panel on back near compressor and remove retention clip with fingers, remove & replace both capacitor & starter, put clip and access panel back on, plug in and allow 8 hours to cool! Works like new again! Hope it goes another 10 years

removed old and instaslled new. biggest problem was getting to one of the screws.

inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thick. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."

In less time than it took to turn on the computer
the repair was completeed. Two screws off, two
screws on. It can,t get any easier. Thank you Parts Select, my local parts distributer said the handle was no longer available.

I unscrewed the old handle and transfered the trim piece to the new handle then installed the new handle to the frig.

Remove handle from refrigerator using phiilips screwdriver(2 screws).Interchage face plate(4 screws)and reinstall to refrigerator.Had the part the next day after ordering,kind of thought sixty bucks was a little expensive,but had little choice,had to have it.

Pried out old part with screwdriver. Unplugged. When new part came, just plugged it in and pushed the part into place.

Used the suggested problem list here to narrow down that the repair was most likely the run capacitor. Poped the new one in and I now have better control of my compartment ranges. I have a temperature gauge in each compartment. Check them every opening of the doors.

I removed the back cover in the freezer section by removing six screws. The entire coil, the thermostat and the lines were all iced over. I used a hairdryer to defrost everything. I removed the thermostat by uncoupling the connectors and unclipping it from the coil tubing. I found the thermostat was bulging and deformed. I jumped out the thermostat using an insulated clip lead. I taped it so it would not short to anything. I plugged the unit in, turned the unit to "1" and advanced the defrost timer to defrost. I could hear the water hissing on the coil. I ordered the thermostat. It arrived in 3 days. The new one had a different terminal. I cut off the matching one from the old part and used a scotch-lok to make the connection to the new part. I slapped it in, dressed the wires and replaced the cover. I noticed that when I advanced the timer after replacing the thermostat, it did not immediately come on. The thermostat has an operating temperature window. I checked it several days later and found no frost. Everything works great.

Opened new kickplate from pkg and snapped it on !! So happy

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