ART2107BS-PART2107BS0 Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

Simply stick a putty knife between the switch and refrig wall. Pop out old swith, remove both wires by pulling off switch by terminals. Throw switch out. Put wires on new switch and push into slot and all done. Nothing to it! Took me 5 minutes if th

Turn off power. Remove 1 screw to remove the plastic cover (cover snaps out). Snap out socket. Pull off two wires. Plug wires onto new socket. Snap in the socket. Replace the cover and screw. DONE

Apparently, the manufacturer sometimes substitutes a part but keeps the same number, which is what happened here. The part wouldn't fit in the actual space on this model--even though the number was apparently correct! Refunding my money and assisting me to contact the manufacturer directly couldn't have been easier! Impressive customer service in a difficult situation.

Looked at questions, picked one that applied, ordered suggested part, fix was super easy after watching video, Frig in running, part fixed it. Very excited, Thankyou.

Unplug Refrigerator remove lower back panel to expose compressor.Unplug Capactor relay assembly,Plug in new start assenbly,and then the refrigerator to elect'outlet .Compressor srarted right up . Real easy fix simple tools to perform change out. Thanks!!! Saved a bunch of $$$$$ .

I removed the cover panel. There is a clip that holds the relay and capacitor to the pump. Use a screwdriver to pry it off. Unplug the relay. The capacitor is plugged into the relay and they come together which was a surprise, I thought I only ordered the relay. Unplug a cable from the relay. Insert that cable into the new relay and plug it into the compressor. Reattach the clip. One be important instruction. Unplug the refrigerator for at least 8 hours before installation to allow the compressor to cool down. I tried first without allowing the compressor to cool and it did not work. After letting it cool I tried again and it worked like charm. Make sure the refrigerator is unplugged when doing the repair

I had ordered some other parts for something entirely different off your website and service was great. So after almost ten years of a dark refrigerator, because of a defective switch, I decided to see if you had the part to fix it... You did and the part got here in 3 days. I had a working light switch and all the light in the world where my husband needed it most (in the fridge). It took me at the most ten minutes to replace the part. All is well now and I have a happy husband who can find the leftovers just fine. Thanks for your great service!

I have never before seen a bulb with the filament intact not light. If the bulb's filament seems intact, screw the bulb into a known working lamp and see if it lights. When screwing it back into the socket in the fridge, it takes a bit of extra effort to fully seat (until it does, it won't light!). For replacing the switch, I unplugged the unit, used a paint scraper and worked it under the switch bezel from the right side. A bit of moxie, and the switch came out. The replacement switch had a different spade contact spacing than the original. I used a pair of scissors to cut the rubber bridge between the two switch wire connectors so I could connect to the new switch. In the end, it turned out to be the bulb. NOTE: The Model TC18KL is _not_ listed! What I finally found that the number "P7803211WL" on the sticker is actually a manufacturing code. Found this out by searching, and Sears' part search came up with matches.

You just take the back panel off (8 screws with hex heads), disconnect one wire harness, pull off the relay, and push on the new one. Easy peasy. Getting the wires off was the only tricky part, they clip in place so you have to pry the retaining clip loose. Unfortunately, it turns out our compressor is shot so replacing the relay did not fix the problem.

I watched the video and thought "I can do this". Made some notes and then proceeded to remove the old switch and replace with the new one. Thank you.

The Amana You Tube video explained and demonstrated how to isolate the problem. After finding the problem I ordered the Water Valve on a Sunday and I installed it Tuesday morning in about ten minutes.

Removed and replaced part...

After unplugging the refrigerator, I removed the lower rear access panel that exposed the condenser and the overload/relay start capacitor with 1/4" nut driver (6 total). Next, I unplugged the wire harness and spring loaded keeper with needle nose pliers. Then I pulled the overload/relay start capacitor out of the 3 pronged male receptor located on the side of the condenser and plugged in the new one. Replaced the keeper, plugged the harness back in, and replaced the panel. Very easy fix.

Viewed the viedo - it showed what to do

My 8 year old Maytag side-by-side started having a buzzing sound coming from the compressor area that lasted around 8 to 10 seconds which was followed by a "click" sound. It would repeat every 3 minutes or so. From what I read, the Overload/Relay with Start Capacitor was the likely culprit. I got it replaced tonight but unfortunately, the same problem is occurring. The downside is I likely have a bad compressor (not worth replacing after cost of parts and labor) and wasted $60 on the Overload/Relay with Start Capacitor. Partselect's service though I would say is top notch. I received the part within two days of placing the order and my order confirmation email even had a link to a youtube video detailing the installation. That was very helpful. I just wish I was looking at a $60 fix vs a grand for a new fridge! Oh well, live and learn....and no more Maytag.