HMG19364-0A Admiral Refrigerator - Instructions

Eased the putty knife under the edge of the switch housing and pried it off. Pulled two wires off the old terminals and hooked them onto the new one and reinstalled into the refrigerator body.

We looked up the problem online with the model number of the refrigerator. We ordered the part and followed the video installation that was sent with the order and was found online prior to purchasing

Turn off water, removed two mounting screws, unplugged solenoid, removed incoming water connection and plastic pipe to ice maker. Installed new valve, connected water lines, reconnected plug, remounted with screws. Turned water back on, over rode power to ice maker and checked for leaks. Total time about 5 minutes. Very easy repair.

unplug the refrigator, remove everything from
frezer compartment. remove ice maker three screws and un plug. remove rear panel 4 screws
remove motor bracket from rear panel 4 screws
unplug motor . replace motor and reasemble in
reverse order. the new motor is very quiet.

Remove the 3 screws and disconect the plug. The wiring harnes on the new Ice Make did not match so I use the wiring harness from my old unit. I pluged the new one in and screwed in the three screws and it was ready. I did have to wait a full 24 hours before the first 8 pieces of ice eject out.

Very simple repair. Ice maker was operating, but not receiving water. Once new valve was in place it works like new.

The old water valve leak required me to purchase this new complete part. After shutting off the water supply, disconnect the supply line, take out the old water valve by disconnecting the "plug" from the refrigerator, and disconnect the plastic water line going into the ice maker. Then just reconnect the new water valve by plugging it into the 2 pronged receptacle, note to be sure to write down which wire goes into which input when disconnecting the old valve. Then hand tighten the plastic tube into the valve. Next attach your water supply line into the new water valve, tighten this supply line as you would any plumbing supply line with a couple of adjustable wrenches and some teflon tape at the connection. I would also recommend at this point, if the compression fitting on your supply line was like mine a bit old, to spend a couple bucks on a new fitting and put that on the supply line, since you don't want to worry about it being a good seal at the supply line point, once the repair is done. After checking for "no leaks" reattach everything to the rear of the refrigerator (make a note of the attachment before taking out the old valve) and see if your ice maker starts to make some ice. You will hear the valve feeding the water to the icemaker if all is properly setup.

The first issue was to determine if the problem was with the ice maker or the water dispenser / pump. I chose to try to repair the dispenser first since there air bubbles in the plastic line. Also, the ice maker seems to have been working. There just wasn't enough water so the ice cubes were hollow.

I unplugged the power cord, , removed the cardboard backing and two bolts that secured the pump to the refrigerator. I vacumned the area so I could see around. I pulled the valve out and disconnected it from the internal power source. I disconnected the copper water intake and the plastic tubbing to the ice maker. I used a pipe cutter to take the old flanged area off. A new flange was included in the package. I used that and reconnected the copper intake and the plastic tubbing. I replaced the power source and secured the valve to the refrigerator makeing sure the plastic tubbing wasn't twisted. When I plugged the refrigator back up, the ice maker started working within five minutes.

I had to find a couple screws that would match the clips and kickplate. I screwed on the clips. The kickplate snapped on perfectly.

Just like the video showed me.It still does not work. Have to turn it off and on to make it start up.I also replaced thermostat in freezer. Does not work.

After disconnecting the electricity. I followed the instructions as indicated in the "HOW TO" article on the website. I used a steel putty knife and pried the light switch out of its retaining hole. I worked the right side the most since this is the side with the retaining clip. After I removed the switch I transferred the two electrical outlets to the new switch and easily snapped it into place. Engaged the electric power and tested the switch.

disconnected el. power to fridge. pried out broken switch with small screwdriner and pulled out w/water pump pliers. installed new switch and pressed into opening.

Great service. Unpluged old switch and pluged in new one. Works great

Used a screwdriver to pry loose the old switch, swapped wires to the new switch and pushed it into the opening. Took about 2 minutes.

removed the 2 screws that held the panel in place, had to reach up and push on locking tabs to lower trhe front of the panel. was able to then push on the locking tab of the switch to release it. removed the wires, replaced them onto the new switch, and snapped the switch into place. the rest was reverse of the uninstall process.