HMG191340 Admiral Refrigerator - Instructions

After several repairmen and still leaking, I did my own diagnosis. I went to Partselect and got the part the NEXT DAY!! Followed directions from video on line and it took less than15 mins.! Now we have more ice than we need! Thanks Partselect!!!

I have never before seen a bulb with the filament intact not light. If the bulb's filament seems intact, screw the bulb into a known working lamp and see if it lights. When screwing it back into the socket in the fridge, it takes a bit of extra effort to fully seat (until it does, it won't light!). For replacing the switch, I unplugged the unit, used a paint scraper and worked it under the switch bezel from the right side. A bit of moxie, and the switch came out. The replacement switch had a different spade contact spacing than the original. I used a pair of scissors to cut the rubber bridge between the two switch wire connectors so I could connect to the new switch. In the end, it turned out to be the bulb. NOTE: The Model TC18KL is _not_ listed! What I finally found that the number "P7803211WL" on the sticker is actually a manufacturing code. Found this out by searching, and Sears' part search came up with matches.

I followed the repair instructions the Part Select site provided for this replacement valve. The only differences were I needed a small socket/wrench set in place of screw drivers.

ordered the parts. The bar took awhile to come in. The bar was too long for the fridge, so I had to hack of the end of it, then slid it into the two retainers I had put into the fridge.

Fairly simple install. Shut off water supply. Removed the old unit. Reversed order and installed the new unit. Turned water back on. Checked for leaks. . . Then put fridg. Back in position. Fixed the problem. . . Makes nice cubes. . .

Cut water line, removed cover,removed old valve and replaced with new one.

Simply stick a putty knife between the switch and refrig wall. Pop out old swith, remove both wires by pulling off switch by terminals. Throw switch out. Put wires on new switch and push into slot and all done. Nothing to it! Took me 5 minutes if th

We were not hearing the water turning on to fill the icemaker tray. Took a chance it was the inlet valve. We were right. Removed old one, found on the lower back side of the frig. Unplugged electric supply, plugged new one in and refastened. In 5 minutes we were hearing the water turn on to fill the tray! Thanks

followed the video as instructed. Saved two repairman calls, one to find the problem, one to install. Net savings was about $130.00

My Magic Chef Refrigerator Door Shelf Retainer somehow got lost. When I contacted PartSelect they zeroed in on exactly what I needed. Service was great and I will do business with them again. Norman MacDonald Issaquah, Washington State

Received the part the day after ordering. Appreciated the quick service and repair took less than a minute.

Researched this problem on the web. Disassembled the main refrigeration unit (slide out freezer floor panel). The cooling coils were completely iced up. Thawed overnight. Tested the coil thermostat with a multimeter and discovered it worked. Note that the activation temp on this thermostat is 15 degrees Fahrenheit so the ice-water bath test on many web videos will NOT work. My test was in another refrigerator freezer compartment (everyone has two, right?). When the temperature went below 15 and stayed there for 15 minutes, the thermostat opened the circuit. Further investigation revealed that the defrost heater was burnt and shorted. Replaced the defrost heater only to discover that the defrost timer was also broken. After replacing the defrost timer and testing each component thoroughly, the refrigerator is back in service. Freezer maintains about 8 F and the main refrigerator stays at about 36. The unit cycles off properly and the defrost timer is correctly initiating a defrost cycle. Further, when the defrost heater is cycled on, the thermostat correctly shuts it off once the coils are defrosted. Watch the youtube videos. Find your parts and note their specifications so you can test them properly. And good luck.

I tried to remove the old light switch using a putty knife and a hammer. It was hard to compress the plastic tabs to pull it back through the hole, but all of a sudden, the lights came on. I guess banging on the switch freed-up the contacts. The new switch is now a spare part in case I need it.

After receiving the new part almost immediately,using two screw drivers, removed the broken switch from the plastic frame. Be careful not to scratch or otherwise tear the plastic...very pliable. Since the original switch was factory installed and the wires were packed in fiberglass insulation, the switch came out but the wires and clips were still in place and could not reach the new switch. It was necessary to pull them down with bent long nose pliers...used a lot of "pull" but the wires held up.Connected the switch, turned the power on and there was light! Reports from other users really took the uncertainty out of the task.

Partselect was great, but I "Gilligan-ed" on the fix changing both the icemaker AND water feed solenoid, BEFORE determining the white rubber water feeder tube that installs from back of fridge and feeds ice maker tray inside of freezer was frozen/ blocked. Make sure you check this FIRST, by proding a screw driver up the tube inside freezer and/ or pulling feeder tube out from back of fridge. If the blockage is substantial enough, it will make removal difficult until melts and tube contracts. Good luck!!