HMG22854-2B (5L68B) Admiral Refrigerator - Instructions

order a new try and install

I have to say the packaging of the diary door was A+++ It took less than a minute to snap out the old door (that I had tried to hot glue) and snap in the new door. My story is what a fantastic sales department you have. I submitted my order for the dairy door as well as new shelving hinges. The hinges came in right away; however I received an e-mail saying they no longer had the dairy door. I received a message on my cell phone that the sales lady She said she located a couple of dairy doors in other warehouses and was going to check their availability. Sure enought, it took a week or so, but she did come through with the dairy door for me. I was told they only had a couple left and that they were not making them any longer. Whoever this sales lady is.... three cheers for you what an excellent job. She really did not have to pursue the order any further than her own warehouse but she did - thank you for your excellent service!!!

Removed and replaced the old tray, which had lost its elasticity and wasn't emptying properly. This couldn't have been easier.
Several years ago, we had the same problem, so I called a repair service and paid a dude about $85 to diagnose the cause and correct it. This time, based on observing that prior repairman, I ordered the replacement part for about $25, from this outfit, and repaired the fridge in less time (including time online) than previously spent finding a repair service and dealing with it.

took old socket out, ordered replacement part, dual socket no longer available. Turn off power to appliance, attach new single light socket, screw light socket and light socket holder back into place. Turned on power and it worked. No instructions included in packet, attached wrong first time, blew fuse, attached socket a different way, and it worked.

pulled out old socket and replaced supposed to be a duel socket but no longer exists

replacement was relative easy. The problem came with wire connector that had to be cut, stripped and crimped. The crimping was the dificult part. the connector was a problem to crimp.

Just took old ice tray out and put new one right in place in less than 30 seconds. I am very pleased with how fast the tray arrived after being ordered. if only everything ordered could be made this simple. You are a great company to deal with.

After trying to clean and use chemicles to remove residue, I found that it would not work. Ice would build up in tray causing an overflow in the fill process. this would freeze cubes in tray below causing dispenser not to work properly, New tray seemed to solve the problem. Removed old and installed new

replaced the ice cube tray

The old light fixture and socket were easily removed. This was done with the power connected, but I already knew the switch didn't need to be handled. The solderless connectors are all insulated, so I just had to be careful. The new socket would not accept the connector for the "hot" (red) wire in the fridge, due to a design change. This is, of course, why you furnished a loose 3/16 inch crimpon connector. Rather than cutting the red wire (remember, the power is still connected), I obtained an insulated 3/16 connector of the opposite gender, and a short piece of red-insulated wire from an old fluorescent tube ballast, and made a jumper. The connector I provided (male) did not fit tightly in the original fridge connector, so I put a layer of resin-core solder on my male connector. You need tight connections. If the solder layer is too thick, it's easy to file down. Make sure to heat the solder sufficiently that the solidified solder is shiny and not dull gray. I used a 100-watt gun. 20 watts would probably work too. DO NOT USE ACID-CORE SOLDER OR FLUX ON ELECTRICAL WORK! I knew the switch was good, because I had checked for voltage at the socket terminals using my voltmeter, before I ordered the socket. It read 120 volts every time the door switch was open, and zero volts every time the door switch was pushed closed. A simple voltage tester would work here, too. Be very careful if you do this test or this repair with the power connected to the fridge; there is considerable potential to find yourself touching 120 volts with one hand while your other hand is touching a perfect "ground". There doesn't seem to be any choice if you want to test the switch. You do have a choice with the socket replacement - - the jumper described above. If you're not going to use the jumper approach, cut the power! If you are going to make a jumper and are not comfortable working on a "live" circuit, cut the power.