DNT22H9 8B32A Admiral Refrigerator - Instructions

just as video instructions said, very easy just following them ,part arrived in very short time and was exact fit completely satisfied, saved repair man service charges and wait time

pull unit away from the wall, and unplug it. remove the grill, and cardboard guard on the lower back of the unit. remove Three screws for the motor bracket. Remove the bracket legs from the old motor and assemble them to the new motor. take the fan blade off the old motor, place it on the new. Cut the wires at the old motor, strip the insulation back, use supplied wire nuts to connect the new motor. Reverse order to reassemble. Plug in unit to test function.

I pulled the dispenser bin and emptied the existing ice (the maker worked, the dispenser would not dispense). Though there appears to be more, there are about 4 (reciting from memory)very small tap screws holding the front of the dispenser unit to the bin. The dispenser activation screw mounts over protruding items at each end. The item at the back (away from the dispenser gear package) is the drive ring that was broken. The drive ring is a small plastic cup that inserts into an opening at the back of the bin (female side to the rear) and slides into the distal end of the activation screw on the same end. One must line up the small slot on the inside of the drive ring with the end of the screw. Slide the assembly together (make sure that the cube/crush switch rod is properly clipped in place with the return spring hooked to the clip), GENTLY install the 4 or so screws and return he assembly to the freezer. It should work flawlessly. Elapsed time: 15 - 20 minutes.

Had to replace ice bucket rack because auger motor broke the plastic backing and also the auger motor because shaft was bent on old auger motor. Just followed directions on web site to do repair.

removed the old tank replaced with new tank I had to cut the end of each water line to make it fit into the fitting. check for leaks. It is good to run a bit of water through the tank to get out the air

Easy repair - Don't over complicate it. 1) Flip up ice bar to stop making new ice. 2) Pull out the complete ice bin/tray. 3) shut freezer door while you work on the ice bin. 4) All you need to do is remove the 4 screws holding the ice bin holding tray to the front of the Ice cutting section in the front. 5) Screw drive can then be pulled forward to remove the old/broken white drive cap. Just replace the White Drive ring, put the drive screw back into the ice bin tray and re-install the 4 screws. 6) When re-inserting the bin, you may have to twist the screw drive slightly to re-align with the motor bracket in the back of the freezer. Suggestion: throw out old ice because if it is wet or slightly melted, when you put it back in the freezer the ice will freeze/clump together into a large ice clump; not cubes. Also dry out the ice bin so there is no water to freeze up or create a new jam when the ice bin now re-freezes.

shut off water to frig.- removed screws for old water tank, cut lines, installed lines into new tank, screwed new tank to back frig. wall.

Pulled the fridge out, Took bottom panel off. Removed 3 screws holding motor. Unplugged connector, cut wires, attached old connector on new motor. put blade on new motor.installed in fridge, put cover back on.

Mine was alittle different than the online instructions. 1. I removed the motor. 2. I took the fan off the old motor and cut the wires about 3" back from old motor. 3. Mounted the new fan on bracket and put the fan on the new motor. 4.connected wires that were cut and used wire nuts to connect. 5. Mounted bracket and motor/fan to unit and it works like its brand new. Thank you PartSelect!

Removed the six screws holding the bottom access plate found at the rear of the refrigerator. This gives you easy access to the run capacitor that has a retaining clip. Remove the wire clip and pull out the capacitor (it has two quick disconnect terminals). Reverse the process using the new run capacitor to complete the repair.

Unscrewed the right control knob. Removed the left temperature control knob (there is no screw holding it), removed one screw to rear of small panel then pried open from the rear of the small panel, there are two plastic tabs in front of the small panel holding it in place. Unscrewed the failed control unit and replaced it with the new one. Replaced the small panel and screw then the left side control knob, making sure of the alignment in the "off" position as the knob has to be pressured into a clamp arrangement on the cold control thermostat. Re-screwed the right knob into place, as well.

opened box,read directions,took out bad motor,installed new one.PRESTO CHANGO way to go.

Pulled refridgerator forward away from the wall. Remove the cardboard back behind the appliance.I saw that the condenser fan motor was not working. Unplugged the appliance from the electrical outlet. Removed a 3 wire plug from the condenser fan motor. Remove 3 screws (with a nut driver) which held the condenser fan motor in place. Remove the condenser fan motor from the appliance. Looked up the part needed for repair using the appliance model number. Found which part was applicable for the appliance. Placed the order from Price Select on a Monday morning and recieved the part 2 days later on Wednesday via FedEx. The item shipped was a 2 wire condenser fan motor. Read the instructions that came with the part. Using wire cutters, cut the old 3 wire plug. The center wire is a green and yellow striped wire. Use the same colored wire that is also shipped in the box and has connectors on both ends. Cut one of the connectors off and use the wire strippers to remove plastic wire coating. Connect both ends from the appliance and the green and yellow wire that was shipped. Use a wire nut (also shipped in the box) to connect the wires. You will have 2 black wires left on the new condenser fan motor that need to be connected to the appliance. You should have an orange colored wire and another wire that is black with a white stripe. Connect one wire from the new fan motor to the orange wire and use a wire nut to attach both wires together. Use the other black wire from the new fan motor to the black/white striped wire from the appliance. Use the wire nut to attach both those wires. Place the new condenser fan motor back in the appliance using the screws that come with the motor. Attach the green and white wire with the connector on the end to one of the 3 screws that hold the motor in place and secure the screws. Use the electical tape to hold the wires all together and away from the fan motor. Plug the appliance into the outlet. You can see the condenser fan motor working properly. Note that when connecting the 2 black wires from the new condenser fan motor to the orange and the black/white wire from the appliance, for my appliance, it did not matter which wires were connected as the fan motor was a clockwise motor. Place the cardboard appliance backing, back on to the appliance and push the refridgerator back in place. Allow about 5-6 hours to get the freezer to between 0-5 degrees. The refidgerator should be between 34-38 degrees and will take a little longer to get to that projected temp.

The old light fixture and socket were easily removed. This was done with the power connected, but I already knew the switch didn't need to be handled. The solderless connectors are all insulated, so I just had to be careful. The new socket would not accept the connector for the "hot" (red) wire in the fridge, due to a design change. This is, of course, why you furnished a loose 3/16 inch crimpon connector. Rather than cutting the red wire (remember, the power is still connected), I obtained an insulated 3/16 connector of the opposite gender, and a short piece of red-insulated wire from an old fluorescent tube ballast, and made a jumper. The connector I provided (male) did not fit tightly in the original fridge connector, so I put a layer of resin-core solder on my male connector. You need tight connections. If the solder layer is too thick, it's easy to file down. Make sure to heat the solder sufficiently that the solidified solder is shiny and not dull gray. I used a 100-watt gun. 20 watts would probably work too. DO NOT USE ACID-CORE SOLDER OR FLUX ON ELECTRICAL WORK! I knew the switch was good, because I had checked for voltage at the socket terminals using my voltmeter, before I ordered the socket. It read 120 volts every time the door switch was open, and zero volts every time the door switch was pushed closed. A simple voltage tester would work here, too. Be very careful if you do this test or this repair with the power connected to the fridge; there is considerable potential to find yourself touching 120 volts with one hand while your other hand is touching a perfect "ground". There doesn't seem to be any choice if you want to test the switch. You do have a choice with the socket replacement - - the jumper described above. If you're not going to use the jumper approach, cut the power! If you are going to make a jumper and are not comfortable working on a "live" circuit, cut the power.

The kit I recieved was perfect. All parts fit and where a perfect match. I will give you an A+ in handling my order and shocked by speed of your delivery.