HMG19384-7B Admiral Refrigerator - Instructions

I tilted the unit back enough to scew the new legs into the threaded holes.

The Whirlpool water inlet valve was better design than the original. All I had to do was drill 2 holes to mount it since it didn't mount in the same location as the old one. I liked the push in connection for the water outlet to the ice maker better than the original plastic screw connection.

Ordered new single outlet water valve, received in less than two days. Removed old one, and the repair pretty much feel in place. Instructions were there as a backup. ........ Just curious if the connection from the water source to the valve outlet connection could b a quick connect just the like the water line going directly to the ice maker. Gregg in PA.

unplug the refrigator, remove everything from
frezer compartment. remove ice maker three screws and un plug. remove rear panel 4 screws
remove motor bracket from rear panel 4 screws
unplug motor . replace motor and reasemble in
reverse order. the new motor is very quiet.

Turn off water, removed two mounting screws, unplugged solenoid, removed incoming water connection and plastic pipe to ice maker. Installed new valve, connected water lines, reconnected plug, remounted with screws. Turned water back on, over rode power to ice maker and checked for leaks. Total time about 5 minutes. Very easy repair.

bulbs were not burnt out. received the new switch in a few days. watch the short video, was good to see how it comes out. used a putty knife to release the defective switch, removed wires put them on the new one and posed the new switch back in. Not bad Part cost $11.00 7 dollars shipping so for 17 bucks it works great. nice to see what is inside the refer!

Eased the putty knife under the edge of the switch housing and pried it off. Pulled two wires off the old terminals and hooked them onto the new one and reinstalled into the refrigerator body.

We looked up the problem online with the model number of the refrigerator. We ordered the part and followed the video installation that was sent with the order and was found online prior to purchasing

The first issue was to determine if the problem was with the ice maker or the water dispenser / pump. I chose to try to repair the dispenser first since there air bubbles in the plastic line. Also, the ice maker seems to have been working. There just wasn't enough water so the ice cubes were hollow.

I unplugged the power cord, , removed the cardboard backing and two bolts that secured the pump to the refrigerator. I vacumned the area so I could see around. I pulled the valve out and disconnected it from the internal power source. I disconnected the copper water intake and the plastic tubbing to the ice maker. I used a pipe cutter to take the old flanged area off. A new flange was included in the package. I used that and reconnected the copper intake and the plastic tubbing. I replaced the power source and secured the valve to the refrigerator makeing sure the plastic tubbing wasn't twisted. When I plugged the refrigator back up, the ice maker started working within five minutes.

Very simple repair. Ice maker was operating, but not receiving water. Once new valve was in place it works like new.

The hardest part was taking out original light bulb because screws on shield where hard to unscrew after all this years . The old bulb vent out leaving neck in socket. It took narrow electrical pliers to get neck out .The generic appliance bulb did not fit and had aluminum neck ,not recommended for brass sockets in ovens.Putting new light bulb in was not the problem.

The old water valve leak required me to purchase this new complete part. After shutting off the water supply, disconnect the supply line, take out the old water valve by disconnecting the "plug" from the refrigerator, and disconnect the plastic water line going into the ice maker. Then just reconnect the new water valve by plugging it into the 2 pronged receptacle, note to be sure to write down which wire goes into which input when disconnecting the old valve. Then hand tighten the plastic tube into the valve. Next attach your water supply line into the new water valve, tighten this supply line as you would any plumbing supply line with a couple of adjustable wrenches and some teflon tape at the connection. I would also recommend at this point, if the compression fitting on your supply line was like mine a bit old, to spend a couple bucks on a new fitting and put that on the supply line, since you don't want to worry about it being a good seal at the supply line point, once the repair is done. After checking for "no leaks" reattach everything to the rear of the refrigerator (make a note of the attachment before taking out the old valve) and see if your ice maker starts to make some ice. You will hear the valve feeding the water to the icemaker if all is properly setup.

Fridge has a top freezer. I unplugged the fridge and removed the lower panel in the back. I removed the two screws that hold the valve bracket to frame of fridge in lower right corner (facing fridge from back). I then disconnected the modular wiring plug and both the water supply and the hose to the icemaker.
i connected the power plug to the new part, reconneced the hose to the icemaker and reattached the bracket with the two screws into the frame of the fridge. finally, i reconnected the water supply and plugged in the fridge. In a few hours the icemaker was working like new. I figure i save about $100 or more by not having to call a repairman and it was easier than I had expected.

By watching a video.

Checked the manuals and found the needed part. Having worked with solenoids before gave me an idea that it was the defective part. The valve would open when water was needed and you would hear this gushing sound. Water supplt was okay and the ice making unit was also working. Bought the part from this website, switched the unit and now the ice maker is working perfectly. This could not have been any easier. Make sure to keep your manuals handy!