HMG621867 Admiral Refrigerator - Instructions

I used a flat-head screwdriver to pop out the old light rocker switch. Then, I unplugged the wires, plugged them into the new light rocker switch, and then popped the new switch into the hole. That's it! Lights began working again.

Unplug the refrigerator. Remove face plate located in the upper back of the refrigerator compartment. Remove face place bracket on the right using nut driver. Removing these screws also frees the metal case enclosing the Defrost Timer. Pull the case away from the back of the refrigerator exposing the Defrost timer. Remove the electrical plug from the Defrost Timer. Then remove the Defrost Timer from the case by removing the two screws securing it. Reverse the procedure to install the new Defrost Timer.

An easy job for smaller hands. Removed the two bolts holding the light cover. Removed two electrical connections from the old switch by pinching the retaining clip,removed the switch, snapped in the new one and re-attached the connectors. Your online illustrations helped me to know that the plastic housing for the light switch would only swing down so far and was not intended to be removed. Saved me from breaking that plastic cover's tabs. This home repair saved me more than 5 times the cost of hiring a professional to do it. Very happy homeowner.

Once I saw the replacement part I understood how to pry out the switch with a small screwdriver. Then just unplug the old one, plug in the new one and pop it into place.

The PartSelect site made it easy to correctly identify the correct part, it was inexpensive, and the shipping was fast.

I'm very pleased!

tested bulb good ,replaced door switch first(least expensive)then ordered light socket and circuitboard.If clicking sound is heard replace circuitboard first to save on return shipping because the switch and socket where ok

unplug refrigerator. remove contents from freezer. remove shelves, trays, icebucket, light cover & bulb. defrost back panel w/hair dryer. remove screws from: ice dispenser motor housing, back cover. remove back cover. defrost evaporator w/hair dryer. remove heater leads from connector on feedthru. remove heater mounting screws. pull leads down thru evaporator while removing heaters. install new heaters on mounting plates. feed leads up thru evaporator. connect to feedthru. install everything else.

part was exact fit. same resistance as on schematic, leads were long enough. no problems encountered.

This was an easy fix. The old one had cracked probably from the frige being left out in cold weather. Just remove the back cover. Unscrew the water line and two plastic lines and unplug the two plugs. Then remove a single screw that holds the valve in place and put on the new one and reattach everything. Good idea to recut the ends of the tubing to remove old crimp.

Just replaced the switch, but unfortunately that was not the problem; nor was it the bulb....so I am back to square one.
But Parts Select is a great place to order from. Thank you.

Tips from internet forums helped me figure out the problem: The defroster heaters were not working and the freezer side would frost up and prevent cold air from entering the refrigerator side. I removed the drawers, drawer slides, ice maker, then the back panel to expose the cooling coils. You can check the heaters for continuity before rempving them by disconnecting the two lead wiresonce you have the back panel removed. Not getting any continuity, I removed the old heaters after defrosting the coils. Removing the heaters was the most difficult part as they are a little "long" for where they fit, but with care it can be done, the same applies to installing the new heaters. I had to cut the connecting wire on one of the heaters to remove it, but got the new set installed OK. Works fine now, the bottom heater was defective, and since the are wired in series neither one will work independently. Everything works fine now, problem solved.

It was so easy!

Thanks for the rush to my home on the part.

I just unscrewed the plate that locks in the light switch (screwdriver) and unplugged the old faulty part and plugged in the new switch, screwed the cover back on and I was done!

Easy!

And I am not Mr. Fix-it!

Unplugged refrig., emptied freezer, removed ice bucket drive, removed back wall of freezer, used blower side of vac to defrost coils, remvoed glass heaters and pulled a chase line thru as I removed old wires. Replaced heaters and chased new wires using chase wires.

Used a screw driver to pull old switch. Pulled one wire at a time, only two wires. After wires instlled to new switch push new one back in place where the old one was.

I simply removed the old switch using 2 small screwdrivers and the old switch case popped out. I then upluged the wires from the old switch and reversed the process. Didn't take longer than 5 minutes begining to end! Thank you for the great service! Duncan quaid

The factory installed fill tube was formed and molded, hard plastic. Nothing like the replacement part or the one depicted in the install instructions.To remove it, I had to grip the exterior water tube module with a pair of Visegrip pliers, twist and pull as hard as possible, to expose a section of fill tube. I then had to cut through the tube with a hacksaw to remove the module and flange that secure it to the access hole. From the inside, I removed the ice maker and fan shield to expose the remaining section of fill tube. Using a section of copper pipe and a hammer, I was able to drive the tube through the back wall of the appliance. Fitting the new tube was easy. However, it is too short to reach the fill cup. I fashioned a section of the old tube to create an extension which I inserted in the new part. And, much to my surprise, it actually works!

Removed existing and installed the new part. The hard part is reaching to the back of freezer as it not very wide and is farily deep. Hard to get to arms in at the same time.