21374A Admiral Refrigerator - Instructions

First, I read the instructions that came with the replacement ice maker, which I found confusing because they were apparently written to be installed in some other make of refrigerator. However, after removing the white plastic cover on the new unit and insuring that it was identical to the one that came with the refrigerator, I removed the old unit by first, removing the bottom screw that held the unit to the side of the refrigerator. Then, I loosened the two top mounting screws. slid the unit up and pulled out and away from the side of the refrigerator. Then, holding the unit in my left hand, I pinched the two plastic tongs on either side of the wiring harness where it attached to the outlet at the back of the refrigerator, took the ice maker out of the freezer compartment and set it aside. Then I located the water regulator screw on the right side of the new ice maker and turned it one complete turn clockwise to reduce the amount of water that would fill the unit. After reinstalling the white plastic cover on the new ice maker, I saw that the wiring harness that came with it would not fit my refrigerator's outlet. So I removed the wiring harness from the old ice maker and installed it on the new one. Then I connected it to the outlet at the back of the refrigerator, slid the ice maker over the two top mounting screws and then pulled down to seat the screws. Next, I used a small torpedo level to level the ice maker both vertically and horizontally. This required placing several flat washers behind the metal mounting bracket at the bottom of the ice maker and the refrigerator wall. Once I had leveled the new ice maker, I tightened all three screws and shut replaced the ice receiver tray. Works fine.

First pull out frig and unplug. Shut off water valve. I just had to remove two screws to disconnect unit from bottom rear corner of frig. Pull element out just a few inches and disconnect the plug that feeds it electric. Disconnect water hose and reattach to new unit. Reconnect electric plug and reinstall in back of frig, securing with two screws. I have an older appliance, so I had to jury rig a bit when reattaching new unit by drilling two new holes for mounting. Also, I had to buy a new water hose because the old part would not accept the standard female end of the hose to connect to. Home Depot has the standard icemaker hoses with two female ends. These two glitches would probably not apply to a newer appliance, but anyway, it's cranking out the ice just fine now! Sure I saved alot of money, even with the extra $10 investment for the hose.

Turn off power. unscrewed and removed the panel in the freezer compartment exposing the defroster(6 screws). pulled off the two defroster wires from their lugs. Removed the two plates (4 screws) holding the two heater elements. unsnapped the two heater elements from the plates. installed new heater elements. attached the plates.attached the two wires to the lugs.done

Removed existing and installed the new part. The hard part is reaching to the back of freezer as it not very wide and is farily deep. Hard to get to arms in at the same time.

Replaced refrigerator cooling control. No luck. Replaced freezer cooling control. No luck. Coils were icing up. Unplugged frig and allowed coils to defrost. After more poking around, found that condenser fan was not spinning. Touch it and it'd start. That was definitely in need of replacement. Replacement was easy. Refrigerator is now running as it should.

Ice make was still working but no water coming in to make ice . Pulled refrigerator back and found water valve at bottom of refrig close to the floor. I disconnected water line and electric plug - went to whirlpool web site - no help at all to confusing - found partselect and compaired picture of old valve with picture of new valve . When I got it in mail it took 30 min to install - working fine now hint - mark top of electric plug so you install correctly

order a new try and install

Removed old valve first, found part # on it.
Entered part # into search box on computer.
It came up with the right replacement part the first time!!!
Ordered part, it came in sooner than I thought it would.
I attached the supply line, pushed in the plastic outlet hose, connected the power line, and attached it to the refrigerator frame. We had a full container of ice the next morning.It couldn't of had been easier.

I used this part on a little, under-counter U-line ice maker that is the best little ice maker in the world. The single solenoid part from U-line cost more than twice as much as the generic GE one I ordered from you. It arrived in only 2 days and I was able to just remove the inlet and outlet line from the old solenoid and unscrew the bracket to remove it. I used the included bracket and one screw affix the new one to the ice maker, then just pushed on the inlet and outlet lines, tightened them on, plugged it back in and In about 20 minutes from start to finish, it was back in business, cranking out ice really quick as it was before. Could not imagine summertime in Texas without my U-line,,,Thank you!!!

Removing the old heater coil was a bit of a task as you need to take off all the brackets holding the heater coil and then remove the wiring from back of the coil. Installing the new heater coil assembly in the brackets and feeding the wirings back up to the top was a major task. Need to have long arms as the heater is located way back in the freezer compartment. The part was the exact match. The part was delivered in 2 days. Thanks alot. Will use your site again.

First of all I want to thank Michael from Carlisle,PA and this site for publishing Michael's info on the wiring specifics on the new 3 connector Start Relay ( WP2262185 ). The original relay only has 2 connectors The 2 orange wires which are combined to one female connector need to be clipped and separated each to its own connector. Refer to Michael's blog as to which wire goes to which connector on the Start Relay. I replaced the Run Capacitor, Start Relay and Overload just to be safe. The Start Relay was the actual culprit.Thank you for an excellent website!

removed back cover, removed fan motor and replaced with new one. connected new power wires. worked right away

I was told to order the run capacitor and the technician thought it would repair the refrigerator; but it did not. The appliance technician had to take the run capacitor off and install what he called a "hard start" and the refrigerator is operating right now.

Removed and replaced the old tray, which had lost its elasticity and wasn't emptying properly. This couldn't have been easier.
Several years ago, we had the same problem, so I called a repair service and paid a dude about $85 to diagnose the cause and correct it. This time, based on observing that prior repairman, I ordered the replacement part for about $25, from this outfit, and repaired the fridge in less time (including time online) than previously spent finding a repair service and dealing with it.

No repair needed. I had only to wash the new ones and use them.