21103-0A Admiral Refrigerator - Instructions

First I removed all the screws from the back cover.
2nd removed fan nut and fan blade
3rd removed fan bracket
4th I traced wire to the condenser and disconnected wires from wire nuts.
Installed existing fan brackets to new motor kit
then reconnected wire nuts to new motor cord
Reinstalled fan nut and blade,
reinstalled cover, plugged it in and BAM .WORKS PERF!

removed old and instaslled new. biggest problem was getting to one of the screws.

The plastic fill cup part is also used to hold one end of the wire “one/off” switch that is manually activated or activated when the ice tray is full. This wire piece fell out because one end, that is part of the plastic fill cup, broke off. The wire switch was fine.

The video demos show you exactly what to do. The repair man showed me a trick to speed up the testing process. The trick is to insert a wire jumper cable to actuate the ice maker and make it rotate. But this isn’t necessary.

Hardest part of this fix is emptying the freezer (bottom with a slide out door) and removing the door.

Why this part is so expensive is beyond me. But I’m happy it was available for a 24yo fridge that still works!!

It was easy after it was apparent that the run capacitor was plugged into the compressor. This was determined from a parts diagram of the actual model refrigerator. The part was the same but the location on the video was wrong. A large screwdriver was used to unplug the capacitor from the compressor. The temperature range of the refrigerator is still too wide but it's colder.

Removed top drawer from freezer. Unplugged the ice maker. Uncrewed the bottom screw. Loosened the two top screws. Removed old ice maker. Removed all the parts that didn't come with the new ice maker and installed on new ice maker. Reinstalled the new ice maker. Started making ice with no leaks in about 3 hours.

Adding water to Ice Maker, caused ice to be made. I assumed the Single Outlet Water Valve to be problem (despite %4 probability). I suppose problem could have been in the ice maker itself and it's interface to the Single Outlet Water Valve but fortunately the Single Outlet Water Valve solved the problem. The Parts Select replacement part video was very helpful and the replacement was fairly easy. Were the problem in the Ice Maker itself, I don't know that I could have justified the cost of the the repair for a 17 year old refrigerator.

I watched the video regarding the instillation of this ice maker a few times and then followed it exactly. It was incredibly easy. We had ice cubes about two hours later and no longer had a leak making icebergs!

I watched the repair video on the web site a couple of times just to get comfortable with what to expect. (i.e. pressing tabs on wiring harness to remove, placement of lift arm for removal and installation) These instructions were a big help...I had the removal, modifications and installation completed in less than 30 minutes. Ice cubes (without the extra icicles) in 1 hour...

ordered a new shut-off valve. arrived in 5 days. installation had to wait a couple more day for i had to order a new compression nut. the reason i had to order a new nut was because the original nut was made of teflon and stripped easily when i tightened it to make a leak proof.joint. the new nut arrived in two days and was installed readily being that it was made of brass and consequently did not strip when i tightened to make a drip proof joint. finished in approximately twenty minutes' the video that this site has on the internet was of great value.

I have a Maytag Refridgerator with lower freezer and ice maker. Stopped making ice. Noticed the unit would fill up and freeze but the tray wouldn't rotate to drop the cubes into the tray. Cleared the frozen trays to see if it was just stuck but same thing happened. Replaced unit, not difficult with the exception that the top tray is ridiculously hard to get out. Never did do it, just worked around it. Working perfect now.

I disconnected power, turned off water supply, removed three hexhead screws, disconnected wiring harness plug, then reversed procedure. New icemaker seens to be a little slower in making cubes. However, the cubes are clean, perfect shape and THEY DO NOT CONTAIN ANY OF THE BLACK COATING AS THE OLD ICE MAKER CAUSED. THIS WAS A FAIRLY SIMPLE TASK.

Replaced entire ice maker. Turn off water where it comes out of the wall. Loosen two top screws and remove one screw at bottom. Lift unit up and off top screws and swivel out to the right and disconnect power plug from freezer. Warning new unit does not come with: 1. Power Cable 2. Front plastic cover. 3. Wire bail. Install in reverse order Do NOT toss old unit until new one is installed and working. My came with the bottom mounting bracket bent so I just used the old one. When installing old power cable into new unit be sure to put small sensor into clip. It's part of the cable harness assembly.

Repair was as shown in the video except my refrigerator had screws instead of the plastic clips as shown in the video. Just had to loosen the two upper ones and remove the one lower one. All other steps were as shown in the video.

I just popped out the old switch with a flat head screwdriver. Removed the connections and then installed new switch by reversing steps. Popped in back in and the light went on.

Replaced Icemaker