211340 Admiral Refrigerator - Instructions

Loosen the screws on the sidewall (don't take them all the way out and drop them on the floor as I did) and remove the screw from the bottom bracket. Change out the electrical wires and the wire level sensor that does not come with the new unit. Put the new one in place and give it some time to cool down and make ice ( don't be impatient like I was and think the new unit was bad or that you replaced the wrong part)

figured out the condenser fan was kaput. Tried WD, worked for several days then gave out completely. Took off back of fridge and trained small fan on compressor while I ordered new condenser fan. The swap was easy, undid the housing bolts, stripped off the connector, reconnected and voila! works perfect.

First I removed all the screws from the back cover.
2nd removed fan nut and fan blade
3rd removed fan bracket
4th I traced wire to the condenser and disconnected wires from wire nuts.
Installed existing fan brackets to new motor kit
then reconnected wire nuts to new motor cord
Reinstalled fan nut and blade,
reinstalled cover, plugged it in and BAM .WORKS PERF!

had to cut approximately 1/2 inch off. It was a bit to thick used the pliers to squeeze it to a thickness it would fit in the slots

I got the product very quickly. (thank you) Looked at online instructions that were quite vague. Pulled plug.Removed the holder for the fan motor slid it out to see what I had. Removed the mounting screws (3) and slid the motor an fan blade out. I made a cut between the wires and marked the "top" wire to motor to be sure to spin in right direction. Removing fan blade hold down clamp was NOT explained at all but I noted that the shaft on the motor was threaded, so I used pliars and held the shaft white un-screwing clamp. I cleaned the fan blades with degreaser and scraped edges of opening on holder opening. Make sure to use ALL the NEW parts included with this kit when re-installing. They send them for a reason. When slpicing and connecting wires it is a 50/50 shot if you don't mark before cutting. You can connect and try plugging fridge back for moment and make sure it is blowing OUT. Put everything back together and after turning DOWN the thermostats twice, fridge is back to usual. Ice maker is cranking out ice and outside case is cool to the touch.

Note: This can be a DIRTY job especially with 4 dogs in house. Fir and grease don't mix well

removed old and instaslled new. biggest problem was getting to one of the screws.

I watched the video regarding the instillation of this ice maker a few times and then followed it exactly. It was incredibly easy. We had ice cubes about two hours later and no longer had a leak making icebergs!

It was easy after it was apparent that the run capacitor was plugged into the compressor. This was determined from a parts diagram of the actual model refrigerator. The part was the same but the location on the video was wrong. A large screwdriver was used to unplug the capacitor from the compressor. The temperature range of the refrigerator is still too wide but it's colder.

Disconncted power, pulled plug on disconnect, loosened 3 ice maker attach screws, removed ice maker. carefully removed old broken part, to understand reasembly. Reinstalled new water fill & bearing part.. hung icemaker and tightened attach screws. Reattached electrical plug.. turned on power, it all worked. .took about 45 min to remove, 15 min to reinstall. Right tools needed re disassembly AND ASSEMBLY

I replaced the run capacitor wich is located near the compressor, i first turned power off to fridge than remuved capacitor checked for continuity and the capacitor was the problem thanks

I have a Maytag Refridgerator with lower freezer and ice maker. Stopped making ice. Noticed the unit would fill up and freeze but the tray wouldn't rotate to drop the cubes into the tray. Cleared the frozen trays to see if it was just stuck but same thing happened. Replaced unit, not difficult with the exception that the top tray is ridiculously hard to get out. Never did do it, just worked around it. Working perfect now.

ordered a new shut-off valve. arrived in 5 days. installation had to wait a couple more day for i had to order a new compression nut. the reason i had to order a new nut was because the original nut was made of teflon and stripped easily when i tightened it to make a leak proof.joint. the new nut arrived in two days and was installed readily being that it was made of brass and consequently did not strip when i tightened to make a drip proof joint. finished in approximately twenty minutes' the video that this site has on the internet was of great value.

Removed top drawer from freezer. Unplugged the ice maker. Uncrewed the bottom screw. Loosened the two top screws. Removed old ice maker. Removed all the parts that didn't come with the new ice maker and installed on new ice maker. Reinstalled the new ice maker. Started making ice with no leaks in about 3 hours.

Adding water to Ice Maker, caused ice to be made. I assumed the Single Outlet Water Valve to be problem (despite %4 probability). I suppose problem could have been in the ice maker itself and it's interface to the Single Outlet Water Valve but fortunately the Single Outlet Water Valve solved the problem. The Parts Select replacement part video was very helpful and the replacement was fairly easy. Were the problem in the Ice Maker itself, I don't know that I could have justified the cost of the the repair for a 17 year old refrigerator.

I watched the repair video on the web site a couple of times just to get comfortable with what to expect. (i.e. pressing tabs on wiring harness to remove, placement of lift arm for removal and installation) These instructions were a big help...I had the removal, modifications and installation completed in less than 30 minutes. Ice cubes (without the extra icicles) in 1 hour...