21674B Admiral Refrigerator - Instructions

Replaced refrigerator cooling control. No luck. Replaced freezer cooling control. No luck. Coils were icing up. Unplugged frig and allowed coils to defrost. After more poking around, found that condenser fan was not spinning. Touch it and it'd start. That was definitely in need of replacement. Replacement was easy. Refrigerator is now running as it should.

Removed existing and installed the new part. The hard part is reaching to the back of freezer as it not very wide and is farily deep. Hard to get to arms in at the same time.

Removed old valve first, found part # on it.
Entered part # into search box on computer.
It came up with the right replacement part the first time!!!
Ordered part, it came in sooner than I thought it would.
I attached the supply line, pushed in the plastic outlet hose, connected the power line, and attached it to the refrigerator frame. We had a full container of ice the next morning.It couldn't of had been easier.

Ice make was still working but no water coming in to make ice . Pulled refrigerator back and found water valve at bottom of refrig close to the floor. I disconnected water line and electric plug - went to whirlpool web site - no help at all to confusing - found partselect and compaired picture of old valve with picture of new valve . When I got it in mail it took 30 min to install - working fine now hint - mark top of electric plug so you install correctly

order a new try and install

I used this part on a little, under-counter U-line ice maker that is the best little ice maker in the world. The single solenoid part from U-line cost more than twice as much as the generic GE one I ordered from you. It arrived in only 2 days and I was able to just remove the inlet and outlet line from the old solenoid and unscrew the bracket to remove it. I used the included bracket and one screw affix the new one to the ice maker, then just pushed on the inlet and outlet lines, tightened them on, plugged it back in and In about 20 minutes from start to finish, it was back in business, cranking out ice really quick as it was before. Could not imagine summertime in Texas without my U-line,,,Thank you!!!

Removing the old heater coil was a bit of a task as you need to take off all the brackets holding the heater coil and then remove the wiring from back of the coil. Installing the new heater coil assembly in the brackets and feeding the wirings back up to the top was a major task. Need to have long arms as the heater is located way back in the freezer compartment. The part was the exact match. The part was delivered in 2 days. Thanks alot. Will use your site again.

First of all I want to thank Michael from Carlisle,PA and this site for publishing Michael's info on the wiring specifics on the new 3 connector Start Relay ( WP2262185 ). The original relay only has 2 connectors The 2 orange wires which are combined to one female connector need to be clipped and separated each to its own connector. Refer to Michael's blog as to which wire goes to which connector on the Start Relay. I replaced the Run Capacitor, Start Relay and Overload just to be safe. The Start Relay was the actual culprit.Thank you for an excellent website!

I was told to order the run capacitor and the technician thought it would repair the refrigerator; but it did not. The appliance technician had to take the run capacitor off and install what he called a "hard start" and the refrigerator is operating right now.

Removed and replaced the old tray, which had lost its elasticity and wasn't emptying properly. This couldn't have been easier.
Several years ago, we had the same problem, so I called a repair service and paid a dude about $85 to diagnose the cause and correct it. This time, based on observing that prior repairman, I ordered the replacement part for about $25, from this outfit, and repaired the fridge in less time (including time online) than previously spent finding a repair service and dealing with it.

No repair needed. I had only to wash the new ones and use them.

removed back cover, removed fan motor and replaced with new one. connected new power wires. worked right away

Order the part from the Internet on Sunday, it mailed out on Monday and I received it on Tuesday. I unplugged the fan then undone 3 screws that held the fan bracket to the refrigerator pulled it out unscrewed 3 more nuts and replaced the fan on the bracket and I cut the old wire plug off the old fan and with 2 wire nuts put it on my new fan. Replaced the fan and bracket back on the refrigerator plugged it in and it works like a new refrigerator.

1. Removed food from freezer and unplug refrigerator or shut circuit breaker. 2. Removed freezer shelves 3. Unscrew all screws on inside back wall and removed back wall plate. Run a fan to defrost the coils. 4. Unscrewed 4 heater bracket nuts on front of cooling coils and removed heater elements. Mine were burnt so I knew I had the correct part. 5. Removed the heater wires from back panel. 6. Install new heater elements being careful not to leave oils from hands on glass tubes and connected 2 wires from heating elements to rear panel. Reinstall nuts to hold heater brackets. 7. Plug in and run refrigerator for 2 hours with doors closed. Remove upper rear panel on fresh food side then use a flat head screwdriver to turn red timer screw above refrigerator thermostat clockwise slowly until compressor shuts down. 8. Open freezer and waited a few minutes to watch defrost heater coils glow. If they don't glow you might need a new thermostat for the freezer which is located on rear panel or a new timer. 9. Unplug and reinstall rear panel and shelves. Plug in. It will take 24 to 48hrs. For temperatures to level out. Good luck.

Remove freezer contents, shelving, baskets, shelf brackets, basket rails. Then, remove the icemaker including the ice basket, the cube freezer and the motor assembly. Remove the back liner of the freezer compartment. Remove and replace the defrost heater assembly, using the old mounting brackets and connecting the wires to the same terminals. Reassemble. Discard excess screws :).