22524-0A Admiral Refrigerator - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Joseph from Bloomfield Hills, MI
- Parts Used:
- 4318047
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers
Old Valve was dead
This was very easy and pretty fast to do and its working great...all for $40 bucks ! you can do this...trust me!
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- Customer:
- David from Granada Hills, CA
- Parts Used:
- 833697
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
refrigerator was overheating, condensor fan dead.
First I removed all the screws from the back cover.
2nd removed fan nut and fan blade
3rd removed fan bracket
4th I traced wire to the condenser and disconnected wires from wire nuts.
Installed existing fan brackets to new motor kit
then reconnected wire nuts to new motor cord
Reinstalled fan nut and blade,
reinstalled cover, plugged it in and BAM .WORKS PERF!
2nd removed fan nut and fan blade
3rd removed fan bracket
4th I traced wire to the condenser and disconnected wires from wire nuts.
Installed existing fan brackets to new motor kit
then reconnected wire nuts to new motor cord
Reinstalled fan nut and blade,
reinstalled cover, plugged it in and BAM .WORKS PERF!
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- Customer:
- craig from maple grove, MN
- Parts Used:
- 833697
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
noisy fridge, perimeter of door heating up
figured out the condenser fan was kaput. Tried WD, worked for several days then gave out completely. Took off back of fridge and trained small fan on compressor while I ordered new condenser fan. The swap was easy, undid the housing bolts, stripped off the connector, reconnected and voila! works perfect.
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- Customer:
- Jackson from Leesburg, VA
- Parts Used:
- D7824706Q
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Replaced leaking ice maker after minor screwup!
Old ice maker leaking water and produced ice cubes with black inclusions. First, I removed old ice maker per video instructions. Transferred electrical cable, cover, and bail to new ice maker. First installation failed because I failed to make sure water tube correctly enter back of ice maker. No ice. Initially thought electrical cable wasn't firmly in place. Then I noticed frozen water dripping down back of freezer. A clue! Removed ice maker and reinstalled making sure water tube went through the hole in back of ice maker. Now the new ice maker works beautifully!
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- Customer:
- Samuel from ALEXANDRIA, VA
- Parts Used:
- WPB5705307
- Difficulty Level:
- Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
Ice from icemaker taste metallic; new ice maker directly from box
I did not do the repair yet, there is no schematic on how to route the hose; also no description of how to do the routing/connections.
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- Customer:
- Cami from Carmel, IN
- Parts Used:
- WP61001846
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Freezer-side cold; Fridge-side warm of side-by-side Refridgerator
evaporator coils were frozen solid and air wasn't flowing across them
read all directions first, then consider which steps you'd like to take
in any case...
- check for blockages in the upper and lower air vents that allow air from freezer side to cool the fridge-side
- inspect that the fan in the freezer side is actually turning and not blocked
- if no blockages and air is flowing between the sides...
- unplug the unit
- remove all goods from freezer and fridge
- remove freezer side racks
- remove rear panel on freezer side using philips screwdriver (note that the ice-cube tray motor housing must be freed by removing its screws. it can be pull out a bit to get to a single screw holding the top of the rear panel in place)
- allow the evaporator coils to evaporate all ice off, checking the drain pan under the fridge frequently - accelerate the process using a hair dryer or paint stripper (heat gun)
- disconnect the white wires from the connection block located about 2/3 of the way up the rear wall and check resistance using an ohmeter (see specs on back of fridge on circuit diagram)
- if you get a very high resistance reading, the heater element is likely broken. if so...
-- remove the 2 metal shields located horizontally across the evaporator coils (behind them are the two series-connected defrost heater elements)
-- visually inspect the elements - if they are discolored green or black, remove and inspect more closely (most likely they are blown, just like a light-bulb filament that shows black on the glass)
-- if you see nothing, remove them anyway (since high reading) and check connectors
-- replace them (likely only $30 to $75, depending on type)
- if coils seem ok, or if not suspect, check the defrost thermostat WHILE IT IS STILL IN A WORKING/COLD FREEZER.
- get the defrost thermostat into a coil chamber (other freezer or bucket of ice?) and check resistance using an ohmeter. It must be WELL-BELOW 40F to test it. When it is truly immersed in cold (as it would be in a working freezer), test the resistance. it should be 0-ohms when <<40F and some much higher resistance (>200KOhms) when > 40F.
- if not, replace it
-lastly, if neither the defrost heater elements are bad nor the defrost thermostat is bad, open up the defrost timer
-- the defrost timer is located in the fridge side, likely with the fridge thermostat knobs/controller
-- it is a 5-pin part that cannot be repaired. If all else is checked, most likely the defrost element is never coming on because the timer is not turning it on
read all directions first, then consider which steps you'd like to take
in any case...
- check for blockages in the upper and lower air vents that allow air from freezer side to cool the fridge-side
- inspect that the fan in the freezer side is actually turning and not blocked
- if no blockages and air is flowing between the sides...
- unplug the unit
- remove all goods from freezer and fridge
- remove freezer side racks
- remove rear panel on freezer side using philips screwdriver (note that the ice-cube tray motor housing must be freed by removing its screws. it can be pull out a bit to get to a single screw holding the top of the rear panel in place)
- allow the evaporator coils to evaporate all ice off, checking the drain pan under the fridge frequently - accelerate the process using a hair dryer or paint stripper (heat gun)
- disconnect the white wires from the connection block located about 2/3 of the way up the rear wall and check resistance using an ohmeter (see specs on back of fridge on circuit diagram)
- if you get a very high resistance reading, the heater element is likely broken. if so...
-- remove the 2 metal shields located horizontally across the evaporator coils (behind them are the two series-connected defrost heater elements)
-- visually inspect the elements - if they are discolored green or black, remove and inspect more closely (most likely they are blown, just like a light-bulb filament that shows black on the glass)
-- if you see nothing, remove them anyway (since high reading) and check connectors
-- replace them (likely only $30 to $75, depending on type)
- if coils seem ok, or if not suspect, check the defrost thermostat WHILE IT IS STILL IN A WORKING/COLD FREEZER.
- get the defrost thermostat into a coil chamber (other freezer or bucket of ice?) and check resistance using an ohmeter. It must be WELL-BELOW 40F to test it. When it is truly immersed in cold (as it would be in a working freezer), test the resistance. it should be 0-ohms when <<40F and some much higher resistance (>200KOhms) when > 40F.
- if not, replace it
-lastly, if neither the defrost heater elements are bad nor the defrost thermostat is bad, open up the defrost timer
-- the defrost timer is located in the fridge side, likely with the fridge thermostat knobs/controller
-- it is a 5-pin part that cannot be repaired. If all else is checked, most likely the defrost element is never coming on because the timer is not turning it on
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- Customer:
- Bill from Granite Bay, CA
- Parts Used:
- D7824706Q
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Leaking water every time ice maker fillls.
Replaced entire ice maker. Turn off water where it comes out of the wall. Loosen two top screws and remove one screw at bottom. Lift unit up and off top screws and swivel out to the right and disconnect power plug from freezer. Warning new unit does not come with: 1. Power Cable 2. Front plastic cover. 3. Wire bail. Install in reverse order Do NOT toss old unit until new one is installed and working. My came with the bottom mounting bracket bent so I just used the old one. When installing old power cable into new unit be sure to put small sensor into clip. It's part of the cable harness assembly.
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- Customer:
- Jimmy from LIBERTY, TX
- Parts Used:
- 4318047
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Wrench set
Ice maker wasn't getting water
Removed old water valve on bottom right back side of fridge installed new one which actually took less work
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- Customer:
- William from Mashpee, MA
- Parts Used:
- D7824706Q
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
ice maker quit
Removed the elec connection (after unplugging app) found it easier to remove from appliance. Remove the three screws ( do not temove,....just loosen, the top two) bottom must be removed! Insert the power connection, exchange the tilt up rod, line up the water connection and place back on the two top screws. Tighten and relpace the bottom screw. I found out the hard way.... you cant't see the two top screws . The slots on the ice maker just fit over the screw heads.... it's cold in there!!!
Hopoe this helps..
Cape Cod
Hopoe this helps..
Cape Cod
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- Customer:
- Anson from Algonquin, IL
- Parts Used:
- D7824706Q
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
No Ice Production
I performed basic troubleshooting to make sure there was power and water. Based on historical research on this particular ice maker, I decided that the best direction was to replace the entire assembly. I found this item on this site, ordered it and received it a few days later. I basically removed the ice pan and a few items in the freezer, removed the three mounting screws with either a flat blade screwdriver or nut driver, pulled the electrical harness out of the back wall of the freezer and transferred it to the new ice maker and then installed the new unit, really that simple. Iwas concerned at first, not seeing any activity in the new ice maker but after 15 minutes or so I heard ice falling into the ice bin. Well worth replacing seeing how simple this job was.
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- Customer:
- Frankie from Panama City, FL
- Parts Used:
- D7824706Q
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Cracked Ice Maker causing leak
Removed old ice maker, had to use the wire shutoff from old ice maker installed new one. Very easy repair, very nice product cheapest price on internet.
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- Customer:
- Edwin from Mount Washington, KY
- Parts Used:
- 4318047
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Wrench set
The old ice maker water valve washer in the water inlet port went bad and was leaking. Lasted for 35 years,
The Whirlpool water inlet valve was better design than the original. All I had to do was drill 2 holes to mount it since it didn't mount in the same location as the old one. I liked the push in connection for the water outlet to the ice maker better than the original plastic screw connection.
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- Customer:
- Stephen from OTTUMWA, IA
- Parts Used:
- D7824706Q
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
IceMaker was leaking
Had to remove the freezer door. Held on by 4 screws. Removed bottom screw on old icemaker and loosened the top 2. Slid the old icemaker up, removed the wiring harness and installed it on the new one. Took the wire out that turns the icemaker off and installed it on the new one. Hooked new icemaker on 2 screws, installed bottom screw and installed freezer door. Turned water back on and started making ice.
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- Customer:
- Bobby from HARLEM, GA
- Parts Used:
- D7824706Q
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Icemaker stopped making ice
Model#MBF2255KEW (bottom Freezer) Turn fridge and freezer controls OFF. Move fridge out away from wall to give yourself working space and to clean later. Disconnect electrical plug from wall. Turn off water supply at wall or floor. Put down towel to catch excess water and disconnect water hose at water supply, lay it on towel. Move to the inside of freezer and remove freezer bins by pulling the door all the way out as far as it will go and then lifting by the handle up. locate the two hooks in the back and push forward to clear the bar and move to a safe location. Push the two rails all the way back into the freezer. Un plug wire harness from freezer by squeezing both side of the plug at same time and pull off. Remove the 3- 1/4" nut screws (2 at top and 1 at bottom ) from the ice maker and remove. Take the front cover, Wiring harness and wire bail from old ice maker and place it on the new ice maker. Install new ice maker and connect the wiring harness plug to the freezer connection. Hook up water line hose and tighten. Turn water on and check for leaks. Plug fridge into wall outlet and set refrigerator and freezer controls to 3 until refrigerator is cold and then set as needed. Give the ice maker from 3 to 6 hours to freeze and wait for that magical sound of ice being dumped into the bin. Throw away first batch of ice to make sure there are no impurities. Check for the delivery date of the new ice maker before you start and have coolers and ice for perishables. I removed the old one on the delivery date and cleaned the fridge and freezer inside out. I came to this page to get my repair plan and I hope this will help someone else.
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- Customer:
- Tom from MINNEAPOLIS, MN
- Parts Used:
- 4318047
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Wrench (Adjustable)
We would come home from wintering in Texas and the ice maker would again work for about a week. Decided to replace the valve because it wasn't expensive.
Replaced the valve and cleaned all the coils at the same time. The ice maker is spewing out ice. Wife is happy again.
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