BS24X9DV (DN91B) Admiral Refrigerator - Instructions

Turn off refrig water supply, remove cardboard rear lower cover, disconnect two plastic lines (one for icemaker, the other for in-the-door water dispenser) and one copper fitting (supply line). Replace valve (mounted with one screw), reconnect, test for leaks.

The valve I was so sure was bad wasn't, replacing it didn't solve my problem. Turned out to be a frozen up icermaker water feed tube at the top rear of the refrig. The Fix: heat a metal rod of appropriate size in boiling water or with a hair dryer, poke it gently up into the water drop tube (sticks out just above the rear of the icemaker) from the inside and melt out the ice plug. Be sure to test this tube if you have the same problem, you should be able to disconnect the line on back of the refrig and blow air through the tube if it's clear. Saved the valve anyway for a spare.

When that one came and I went to install it, I found that my fridge was so old (almost 30 years) that the wire harness on the old icemaker could not be transferred to the new one. The old one was hand wired into the guts of the machine with wire nuts and other connectors. The new unit needs a plug in harness to match a plug connection on the ice maker. Also, the bent wire arm that senses ice bin levels was different, old unit hooked in with clips and such, new one pops into a socket in the new ice maker.

I called PartSelect back again, and the clerk spent a lot of time in the books (no parts in the online listings) and found new style connector and wire arm. Another 25 dollars and problem is solved.

Once those parts came, the actual installation was a breeze. Remove three screws, unplug the ice maker from the back wall of the fridge, plug new wire harness into new ice maker and the back wall of the frige, install new ice maker with the same three screws, pop the new style bent wire arm into place and pop the plastic cover from the old ice maker onto the front of the new one. Done! Took me ten minutes (plus two weeks of chasing parts, but only half an hour of actual time in those two weeks).

I let it make a couple of loads of ice that I disposed of (to capture any dust and crud that might have been on or in the new ice maker) and then turned it loose. We had a nice full bin of ice in the morning.

Reattaching the kickplate clip was easy, but the tab that holds in place was broken. It would slide back when the kickplate was installed. I fashioned a replacement tab out of a piece of 3/32 aluminum bent into a U with the hammer. To hold it in place I drilled and tapped one hole and used a 6-32 machine screw.

Removed old icemaker by removing two hex screws and one phillip's head screw.

Disconnected power connection to refrigerator.

Removed power connection harness and ice level sensor arm/levor and cover from old ice maker and installed on new ice maker.

Re-installed in refrigerator. It was simple on this model.

Removed the elec connection (after unplugging app) found it easier to remove from appliance. Remove the three screws ( do not temove,....just loosen, the top two) bottom must be removed! Insert the power connection, exchange the tilt up rod, line up the water connection and place back on the two top screws. Tighten and relpace the bottom screw. I found out the hard way.... you cant't see the two top screws . The slots on the ice maker just fit over the screw heads.... it's cold in there!!!

Hopoe this helps..

Cape Cod

Since it was an older appliance I decided to replace the whole ice maker assembly. I carefully disassembled the old one and then installed the new one. piece of cake.

The plastic fill cup part is also used to hold one end of the wire “one/off” switch that is manually activated or activated when the ice tray is full. This wire piece fell out because one end, that is part of the plastic fill cup, broke off. The wire switch was fine.

The video demos show you exactly what to do. The repair man showed me a trick to speed up the testing process. The trick is to insert a wire jumper cable to actuate the ice maker and make it rotate. But this isn’t necessary.

Hardest part of this fix is emptying the freezer (bottom with a slide out door) and removing the door.

Why this part is so expensive is beyond me. But I’m happy it was available for a 24yo fridge that still works!!

I watched the repair video on the web site a couple of times just to get comfortable with what to expect. (i.e. pressing tabs on wiring harness to remove, placement of lift arm for removal and installation) These instructions were a big help...I had the removal, modifications and installation completed in less than 30 minutes. Ice cubes (without the extra icicles) in 1 hour...

ordered a new shut-off valve. arrived in 5 days. installation had to wait a couple more day for i had to order a new compression nut. the reason i had to order a new nut was because the original nut was made of teflon and stripped easily when i tightened it to make a leak proof.joint. the new nut arrived in two days and was installed readily being that it was made of brass and consequently did not strip when i tightened to make a drip proof joint. finished in approximately twenty minutes' the video that this site has on the internet was of great value.

I have a Maytag Refridgerator with lower freezer and ice maker. Stopped making ice. Noticed the unit would fill up and freeze but the tray wouldn't rotate to drop the cubes into the tray. Cleared the frozen trays to see if it was just stuck but same thing happened. Replaced unit, not difficult with the exception that the top tray is ridiculously hard to get out. Never did do it, just worked around it. Working perfect now.

I watched the video regarding the instillation of this ice maker a few times and then followed it exactly. It was incredibly easy. We had ice cubes about two hours later and no longer had a leak making icebergs!

Repair done according to video and instructions. What you need to know is myself and my husband are adverse to all kinds of "simple" repairs because they never go well and we are not handyman kind of persons. This, I must say, was a delightful change in our typical experience of attempting to make our own repairs.
Thanks
Sandy

Had to cut the old part off with dremel then just install new part and put back in refrigerator. It is a good thing to know that the Yoke is a left threaded. Thanks James from Pineville.

Removed top drawer from freezer. Unplugged the ice maker. Uncrewed the bottom screw. Loosened the two top screws. Removed old ice maker. Removed all the parts that didn't come with the new ice maker and installed on new ice maker. Reinstalled the new ice maker. Started making ice with no leaks in about 3 hours.

First i used a nut driver to remove the bottom screw, the unclipped the two top clips by leaningthe bottom of the unit outwards. I used a mirror to see the two top clips as i could not see inside. Then i removed the wiring harness from the refrigerator. The unit came right out, i transerred the needed parts, and re-installed. Not too bad - about 45 mins. It works great!