BDNS24L9 (CN91A) Admiral Refrigerator - Instructions

the diagnosis was the most difficult step.. and trusting that the one visible nut was the only thing holding it on.. (there are 2 other clips that you need to use a little force on to detach). remove the ice maker (one nut, 2 clips, detach plug).. then remove the 3 screws holding on the 'face' , pry face off, you will see where the 'contact' has burned/melted/worn away. replace unit. 80% of the time, this is the problem (according to my research)

Remove bottom screw loosen 2 top screws unplug connector from back of icebox. Lift up and pull forward. Swap front cover full bucket stop bar and wire (plugs in) reinstall 10 minute job

Removed old ice maker, had to use the wire shutoff from old ice maker installed new one. Very easy repair, very nice product cheapest price on internet.

The video of the installation was the best help I have ever had. Rather that vague written instructions that are usually so poorly written they are of no help, the video showed exactly how to do it. I wish everyone provided videos like this!

Removed the elec connection (after unplugging app) found it easier to remove from appliance. Remove the three screws ( do not temove,....just loosen, the top two) bottom must be removed! Insert the power connection, exchange the tilt up rod, line up the water connection and place back on the two top screws. Tighten and relpace the bottom screw. I found out the hard way.... you cant't see the two top screws . The slots on the ice maker just fit over the screw heads.... it's cold in there!!!

Hopoe this helps..

Cape Cod

Removed old ejector arm and installed new part.

Arrived soon than expected. Unplugged some wires, removed face plate, 3 screws--install and do reverse.

Easier than I would think---Saved $150- to have someone else do it.

Works fine.

Model#MBF2255KEW (bottom Freezer) Turn fridge and freezer controls OFF. Move fridge out away from wall to give yourself working space and to clean later. Disconnect electrical plug from wall. Turn off water supply at wall or floor. Put down towel to catch excess water and disconnect water hose at water supply, lay it on towel. Move to the inside of freezer and remove freezer bins by pulling the door all the way out as far as it will go and then lifting by the handle up. locate the two hooks in the back and push forward to clear the bar and move to a safe location. Push the two rails all the way back into the freezer. Un plug wire harness from freezer by squeezing both side of the plug at same time and pull off. Remove the 3- 1/4" nut screws (2 at top and 1 at bottom ) from the ice maker and remove. Take the front cover, Wiring harness and wire bail from old ice maker and place it on the new ice maker. Install new ice maker and connect the wiring harness plug to the freezer connection. Hook up water line hose and tighten. Turn water on and check for leaks. Plug fridge into wall outlet and set refrigerator and freezer controls to 3 until refrigerator is cold and then set as needed. Give the ice maker from 3 to 6 hours to freeze and wait for that magical sound of ice being dumped into the bin. Throw away first batch of ice to make sure there are no impurities. Check for the delivery date of the new ice maker before you start and have coolers and ice for perishables. I removed the old one on the delivery date and cleaned the fridge and freezer inside out. I came to this page to get my repair plan and I hope this will help someone else.

Replaced entire ice maker. Turn off water where it comes out of the wall. Loosen two top screws and remove one screw at bottom. Lift unit up and off top screws and swivel out to the right and disconnect power plug from freezer. Warning new unit does not come with: 1. Power Cable 2. Front plastic cover. 3. Wire bail. Install in reverse order Do NOT toss old unit until new one is installed and working. My came with the bottom mounting bracket bent so I just used the old one. When installing old power cable into new unit be sure to put small sensor into clip. It's part of the cable harness assembly.

I performed basic troubleshooting to make sure there was power and water. Based on historical research on this particular ice maker, I decided that the best direction was to replace the entire assembly. I found this item on this site, ordered it and received it a few days later. I basically removed the ice pan and a few items in the freezer, removed the three mounting screws with either a flat blade screwdriver or nut driver, pulled the electrical harness out of the back wall of the freezer and transferred it to the new ice maker and then installed the new unit, really that simple. Iwas concerned at first, not seeing any activity in the new ice maker but after 15 minutes or so I heard ice falling into the ice bin. Well worth replacing seeing how simple this job was.

Repair was as shown in the video except my refrigerator had screws instead of the plastic clips as shown in the video. Just had to loosen the two upper ones and remove the one lower one. All other steps were as shown in the video.

Removed all screws on back and 4 on front. That part is easy IF you have a Torx of the right size. Slip out the ice bin a bit and replace the drive ring. Reassembly is a bit harder since some internal shift can occur -- rotate or tilt the whole assembly to get two -- I think -- screws started. No need to over tighten screws; snug is good enough.

This was a very easy fix. I took the old ice maker out, including the electrical harness. Switched the harness and stop bar to the new ice maker on my bench, then installed the new assembly. Ice initially had some hollow cubes. I checked the ice maker for level. But it was fine. Thought it might be moving too fast. But it seems to have cleared up. Perhaps it took some time to completely cool down.

Unplug fridge, unpluged fan motor from plug socket, removed bracket screws, removed fan retainer clip from shaft. removed screws holding fan to bracket

Reattaching the kickplate clip was easy, but the tab that holds in place was broken. It would slide back when the kickplate was installed. I fashioned a replacement tab out of a piece of 3/32 aluminum bent into a U with the hammer. To hold it in place I drilled and tapped one hole and used a 6-32 machine screw.