GT15B2N3EA Admiral Refrigerator - Instructions

Great service. Unpluged old switch and pluged in new one. Works great

Pry old switch and pull out. Disconect two wires. Put two wires on new switch, must be inserted right and connections not loose. Put switch in, making shure wies do not come off and snap in place

Used a screwdriver to pry loose the old switch, swapped wires to the new switch and pushed it into the opening. Took about 2 minutes.

I noticed that the refrigerator was having trouble maintaining temperature. Thought it might be time for new one until I found out that a new frig was $5k to $7K. Just happened to notice that the light switch didn't look quite right (was not sitting sqaure to the door). Once I pressed it it came loose. I then realized the the lights were staying on (50 watts of heating). Replaced the switch and the frig started working like new.

I ordered the part online which arrived two days later. I slid the new retainer into the metal retaining bar, so that the whole piece including the prongs was inside the metal bar. Then I lined up the prongs with the holes and snapped them into place. It took about 3 minutes, and now we have our shelf back.

I simply measured for the correcy length, cut with a hacksaw, inserted the ends that attach it to the door and installed it on the door ..... simple.

removed the 2 screws that held the panel in place, had to reach up and push on locking tabs to lower trhe front of the panel. was able to then push on the locking tab of the switch to release it. removed the wires, replaced them onto the new switch, and snapped the switch into place. the rest was reverse of the uninstall process.

I just fixed them, thank you

After disconnecting the electricity. I followed the instructions as indicated in the "HOW TO" article on the website. I used a steel putty knife and pried the light switch out of its retaining hole. I worked the right side the most since this is the side with the retaining clip. After I removed the switch I transferred the two electrical outlets to the new switch and easily snapped it into place. Engaged the electric power and tested the switch.

I pried the old one out with a screw driver and pushed the new one in. I expected instructions in the box it came in but there were none.

Popped the old one out with a kitchen knife and popped the new one back in. It tool less than 15 seconds!!

My owners manual said to unplug fridge from elec outlet, use a kitchen knife to gently pry off the switch plate
(manual had a pictoral example), unclip the two wire, replace with on new switch and replace the switch. Close
door and plug back in. Open door to check that the lite
works. Walla! It did. Thanks!

Sincerely, Ron Marshall, Billings, MT

had it done by my husband, I did not do it

Please bear in mind I am 65 years old & it was harder to get up & down off the floor then to change the switch. Was very easy - watched video, unplugged unit. I used the putty knife at the right front corner to work loose, when it came loose had to loose the left side a little. The unit pulled out easily. detached the wired that had a single plug with 2 prongs on it. Attached the plug, pushed new switch into place. There was no way you could place wires on wrong prong. When done, plugged refrigerator back in & checked if working. I CAN SEE THE LIGHT and the food in the freezer now. Thank you for making an easy repair.

Ordered the entire seal kit for repair and seal of the basket and hub. One of the challenging tasks was to pull the drive bell off. If you crack or break it, no big deal, you won't reuse it but to make it simpler, use whats called a wonder bar or flat bar and use the hex head bolts in the base of the basket for leverage and work on opposing sides of the bell and it will slowly come up off the shaft instead of using a drive bell tool you'll only use once.
Once you pop that off, take the front panel off and lift back the top to expose the entire interior and exterior basket. remove the bolts in the interior basket and pull out to expose the exterior basket. Now, you need to get that honkin hex nut off the transmission output shaft which was probably the hardest part of the job. Here's the trick to get that off. Grab an 8 inch pipe wrench, reinstall the two hex bolts back into the hub assembly you just pulled out to remove the interior basket but leave them high enough to get the flat bar between them to stabilize the hub and use the pipe wrench to remove the giant hex nut. Once this is done, its all down hill.