GT21B4N3EV Admiral Refrigerator - Instructions

had it done by my husband, I did not do it

Please bear in mind I am 65 years old & it was harder to get up & down off the floor then to change the switch. Was very easy - watched video, unplugged unit. I used the putty knife at the right front corner to work loose, when it came loose had to loose the left side a little. The unit pulled out easily. detached the wired that had a single plug with 2 prongs on it. Attached the plug, pushed new switch into place. There was no way you could place wires on wrong prong. When done, plugged refrigerator back in & checked if working. I CAN SEE THE LIGHT and the food in the freezer now. Thank you for making an easy repair.

Ordered the entire seal kit for repair and seal of the basket and hub. One of the challenging tasks was to pull the drive bell off. If you crack or break it, no big deal, you won't reuse it but to make it simpler, use whats called a wonder bar or flat bar and use the hex head bolts in the base of the basket for leverage and work on opposing sides of the bell and it will slowly come up off the shaft instead of using a drive bell tool you'll only use once.
Once you pop that off, take the front panel off and lift back the top to expose the entire interior and exterior basket. remove the bolts in the interior basket and pull out to expose the exterior basket. Now, you need to get that honkin hex nut off the transmission output shaft which was probably the hardest part of the job. Here's the trick to get that off. Grab an 8 inch pipe wrench, reinstall the two hex bolts back into the hub assembly you just pulled out to remove the interior basket but leave them high enough to get the flat bar between them to stabilize the hub and use the pipe wrench to remove the giant hex nut. Once this is done, its all down hill.

i used a hair dryer and nut driver

tried installing the gasket on the unit. after fighting that for awhile, I removed the freezer door. after that, things went a little better. if your not mechanicly inclined.... I would advise you have it done by a service man.

I tried to remove the old light switch using a putty knife and a hammer. It was hard to compress the plastic tabs to pull it back through the hole, but all of a sudden, the lights came on. I guess banging on the switch freed-up the contacts. The new switch is now a spare part in case I need it.

ordered the parts. The bar took awhile to come in. The bar was too long for the fridge, so I had to hack of the end of it, then slid it into the two retainers I had put into the fridge.

After receiving the new part almost immediately,using two screw drivers, removed the broken switch from the plastic frame. Be careful not to scratch or otherwise tear the plastic...very pliable. Since the original switch was factory installed and the wires were packed in fiberglass insulation, the switch came out but the wires and clips were still in place and could not reach the new switch. It was necessary to pull them down with bent long nose pliers...used a lot of "pull" but the wires held up.Connected the switch, turned the power on and there was light! Reports from other users really took the uncertainty out of the task.

followed the video as instructed. Saved two repairman calls, one to find the problem, one to install. Net savings was about $130.00

I had ordered some other parts for something entirely different off your website and service was great. So after almost ten years of a dark refrigerator, because of a defective switch, I decided to see if you had the part to fix it... You did and the part got here in 3 days. I had a working light switch and all the light in the world where my husband needed it most (in the fridge). It took me at the most ten minutes to replace the part. All is well now and I have a happy husband who can find the leftovers just fine. Thanks for your great service!

We tried repairing with a new switch which was very easy to install but it didn't fix the problem.

This is an easy fix, simply remove and replace. What I was impressed with is that a how to video was provided along with my part. I wish all manufactures would offer this, the video was easy to understand and you had a good view of the operation. Thanks, a job well done.

I watched the video and thought "I can do this". Made some notes and then proceeded to remove the old switch and replace with the new one. Thank you.

I have never before seen a bulb with the filament intact not light. If the bulb's filament seems intact, screw the bulb into a known working lamp and see if it lights. When screwing it back into the socket in the fridge, it takes a bit of extra effort to fully seat (until it does, it won't light!). For replacing the switch, I unplugged the unit, used a paint scraper and worked it under the switch bezel from the right side. A bit of moxie, and the switch came out. The replacement switch had a different spade contact spacing than the original. I used a pair of scissors to cut the rubber bridge between the two switch wire connectors so I could connect to the new switch. In the end, it turned out to be the bulb. NOTE: The Model TC18KL is _not_ listed! What I finally found that the number "P7803211WL" on the sticker is actually a manufacturing code. Found this out by searching, and Sears' part search came up with matches.

I turned the metal pin to shut off the refrigerator. Then, I put the temperature control knob with the "0" facing out. I had read on the site that a pliers might be needed but it was not necessary. I just pushed it into place. Very simple!