CNS22V8A (BR17B) Admiral Refrigerator - Instructions

evaporator coils were frozen solid and air wasn't flowing across them

read all directions first, then consider which steps you'd like to take

in any case...
- check for blockages in the upper and lower air vents that allow air from freezer side to cool the fridge-side
- inspect that the fan in the freezer side is actually turning and not blocked


- if no blockages and air is flowing between the sides...

- unplug the unit
- remove all goods from freezer and fridge
- remove freezer side racks
- remove rear panel on freezer side using philips screwdriver (note that the ice-cube tray motor housing must be freed by removing its screws. it can be pull out a bit to get to a single screw holding the top of the rear panel in place)
- allow the evaporator coils to evaporate all ice off, checking the drain pan under the fridge frequently - accelerate the process using a hair dryer or paint stripper (heat gun)
- disconnect the white wires from the connection block located about 2/3 of the way up the rear wall and check resistance using an ohmeter (see specs on back of fridge on circuit diagram)
- if you get a very high resistance reading, the heater element is likely broken. if so...
-- remove the 2 metal shields located horizontally across the evaporator coils (behind them are the two series-connected defrost heater elements)
-- visually inspect the elements - if they are discolored green or black, remove and inspect more closely (most likely they are blown, just like a light-bulb filament that shows black on the glass)
-- if you see nothing, remove them anyway (since high reading) and check connectors
-- replace them (likely only $30 to $75, depending on type)

- if coils seem ok, or if not suspect, check the defrost thermostat WHILE IT IS STILL IN A WORKING/COLD FREEZER.
- get the defrost thermostat into a coil chamber (other freezer or bucket of ice?) and check resistance using an ohmeter. It must be WELL-BELOW 40F to test it. When it is truly immersed in cold (as it would be in a working freezer), test the resistance. it should be 0-ohms when <<40F and some much higher resistance (>200KOhms) when > 40F.
- if not, replace it

-lastly, if neither the defrost heater elements are bad nor the defrost thermostat is bad, open up the defrost timer
-- the defrost timer is located in the fridge side, likely with the fridge thermostat knobs/controller
-- it is a 5-pin part that cannot be repaired. If all else is checked, most likely the defrost element is never coming on because the timer is not turning it on

Replaced entire ice maker. Turn off water where it comes out of the wall. Loosen two top screws and remove one screw at bottom. Lift unit up and off top screws and swivel out to the right and disconnect power plug from freezer. Warning new unit does not come with: 1. Power Cable 2. Front plastic cover. 3. Wire bail. Install in reverse order Do NOT toss old unit until new one is installed and working. My came with the bottom mounting bracket bent so I just used the old one. When installing old power cable into new unit be sure to put small sensor into clip. It's part of the cable harness assembly.

Unplug fridge, unpluged fan motor from plug socket, removed bracket screws, removed fan retainer clip from shaft. removed screws holding fan to bracket

When that one came and I went to install it, I found that my fridge was so old (almost 30 years) that the wire harness on the old icemaker could not be transferred to the new one. The old one was hand wired into the guts of the machine with wire nuts and other connectors. The new unit needs a plug in harness to match a plug connection on the ice maker. Also, the bent wire arm that senses ice bin levels was different, old unit hooked in with clips and such, new one pops into a socket in the new ice maker.

I called PartSelect back again, and the clerk spent a lot of time in the books (no parts in the online listings) and found new style connector and wire arm. Another 25 dollars and problem is solved.

Once those parts came, the actual installation was a breeze. Remove three screws, unplug the ice maker from the back wall of the fridge, plug new wire harness into new ice maker and the back wall of the frige, install new ice maker with the same three screws, pop the new style bent wire arm into place and pop the plastic cover from the old ice maker onto the front of the new one. Done! Took me ten minutes (plus two weeks of chasing parts, but only half an hour of actual time in those two weeks).

I let it make a couple of loads of ice that I disposed of (to capture any dust and crud that might have been on or in the new ice maker) and then turned it loose. We had a nice full bin of ice in the morning.

Since it was an older appliance I decided to replace the whole ice maker assembly. I carefully disassembled the old one and then installed the new one. piece of cake.

Reattaching the kickplate clip was easy, but the tab that holds in place was broken. It would slide back when the kickplate was installed. I fashioned a replacement tab out of a piece of 3/32 aluminum bent into a U with the hammer. To hold it in place I drilled and tapped one hole and used a 6-32 machine screw.

First had to remove baskets and door from freezer. Removed three screws; removed old ice maker; Attached new ice maker with three screws; removed arm from old ice maker and placed in the new ice maker. Replaced door and baskets

Removed old ice maker, had to use the wire shutoff from old ice maker installed new one. Very easy repair, very nice product cheapest price on internet.

Model#MBF2255KEW (bottom Freezer) Turn fridge and freezer controls OFF. Move fridge out away from wall to give yourself working space and to clean later. Disconnect electrical plug from wall. Turn off water supply at wall or floor. Put down towel to catch excess water and disconnect water hose at water supply, lay it on towel. Move to the inside of freezer and remove freezer bins by pulling the door all the way out as far as it will go and then lifting by the handle up. locate the two hooks in the back and push forward to clear the bar and move to a safe location. Push the two rails all the way back into the freezer. Un plug wire harness from freezer by squeezing both side of the plug at same time and pull off. Remove the 3- 1/4" nut screws (2 at top and 1 at bottom ) from the ice maker and remove. Take the front cover, Wiring harness and wire bail from old ice maker and place it on the new ice maker. Install new ice maker and connect the wiring harness plug to the freezer connection. Hook up water line hose and tighten. Turn water on and check for leaks. Plug fridge into wall outlet and set refrigerator and freezer controls to 3 until refrigerator is cold and then set as needed. Give the ice maker from 3 to 6 hours to freeze and wait for that magical sound of ice being dumped into the bin. Throw away first batch of ice to make sure there are no impurities. Check for the delivery date of the new ice maker before you start and have coolers and ice for perishables. I removed the old one on the delivery date and cleaned the fridge and freezer inside out. I came to this page to get my repair plan and I hope this will help someone else.

Replaced the valve and cleaned all the coils at the same time. The ice maker is spewing out ice. Wife is happy again.

Repair was as shown in the video except my refrigerator had screws instead of the plastic clips as shown in the video. Just had to loosen the two upper ones and remove the one lower one. All other steps were as shown in the video.

Removed the elec connection (after unplugging app) found it easier to remove from appliance. Remove the three screws ( do not temove,....just loosen, the top two) bottom must be removed! Insert the power connection, exchange the tilt up rod, line up the water connection and place back on the two top screws. Tighten and relpace the bottom screw. I found out the hard way.... you cant't see the two top screws . The slots on the ice maker just fit over the screw heads.... it's cold in there!!!

Hopoe this helps..

Cape Cod

the diagnosis was the most difficult step.. and trusting that the one visible nut was the only thing holding it on.. (there are 2 other clips that you need to use a little force on to detach). remove the ice maker (one nut, 2 clips, detach plug).. then remove the 3 screws holding on the 'face' , pry face off, you will see where the 'contact' has burned/melted/worn away. replace unit. 80% of the time, this is the problem (according to my research)

I performed basic troubleshooting to make sure there was power and water. Based on historical research on this particular ice maker, I decided that the best direction was to replace the entire assembly. I found this item on this site, ordered it and received it a few days later. I basically removed the ice pan and a few items in the freezer, removed the three mounting screws with either a flat blade screwdriver or nut driver, pulled the electrical harness out of the back wall of the freezer and transferred it to the new ice maker and then installed the new unit, really that simple. Iwas concerned at first, not seeing any activity in the new ice maker but after 15 minutes or so I heard ice falling into the ice bin. Well worth replacing seeing how simple this job was.

The video of the installation was the best help I have ever had. Rather that vague written instructions that are usually so poorly written they are of no help, the video showed exactly how to do it. I wish everyone provided videos like this!