GS22X8D3V (DP36A) Admiral Refrigerator - Instructions

Merely remove the front bottom screw that attached the ice maker to the refrigerator
Lift the ice maker gently off of the 2 top screws
Unplug the icemaker wiring harness from the back of the refrigerator, and remove
Snap off the end of the maker and remove the keeper for the wire arm
Remove the wire arm and install on new maker
Unplug the wiring harness from the old maker and plug into the new one
Plug the harness into the refrigerator, slip the new maker over the top screws, with the water feed tube inserted into the maker
Install bottom screw into the bracket that holds it in place.
This took less than 5 minutes.

Inserted the prongs of the replacement shut-off arm in the holes provided in the bracket.

Old ice maker leaking water and produced ice cubes with black inclusions. First, I removed old ice maker per video instructions. Transferred electrical cable, cover, and bail to new ice maker. First installation failed because I failed to make sure water tube correctly enter back of ice maker. No ice. Initially thought electrical cable wasn't firmly in place. Then I noticed frozen water dripping down back of freezer. A clue! Removed ice maker and reinstalled making sure water tube went through the hole in back of ice maker. Now the new ice maker works beautifully!

Followed the online PartSelect video instructions and it was very helpful. The ice maker has to cycle through before it starts making ice so don't be alarmed when nothing happens when you first hook it up.

I pulled the drive ring off of the icemaker and replaced it with the new part. Saved a $150 service call plus cost of part. It cost me a little over $11.00 and a repairman probably would have charged $30.

I did not do the repair yet, there is no schematic on how to route the hose; also no description of how to do the routing/connections.

I watched the repair video on the web site a couple of times just to get comfortable with what to expect. (i.e. pressing tabs on wiring harness to remove, placement of lift arm for removal and installation) These instructions were a big help...I had the removal, modifications and installation completed in less than 30 minutes. Ice cubes (without the extra icicles) in 1 hour...

The plastic fill cup part is also used to hold one end of the wire “one/off” switch that is manually activated or activated when the ice tray is full. This wire piece fell out because one end, that is part of the plastic fill cup, broke off. The wire switch was fine.

The video demos show you exactly what to do. The repair man showed me a trick to speed up the testing process. The trick is to insert a wire jumper cable to actuate the ice maker and make it rotate. But this isn’t necessary.

Hardest part of this fix is emptying the freezer (bottom with a slide out door) and removing the door.

Why this part is so expensive is beyond me. But I’m happy it was available for a 24yo fridge that still works!!

I switched the ring and still had the same problem. What caused the Drive ring to crack was the Ice maker drive was cracked also, when it filled with water it would tip. The ice was not freezing completely and would cause the ice to build up and the auger was froze with ice or a big piece of ice would jam it. So I replaced the Ice Tray, it is working like new. I have to buy another ice tray as inventory, although I know inventory is bad but I never agreed with that theory.

I watched the video regarding the instillation of this ice maker a few times and then followed it exactly. It was incredibly easy. We had ice cubes about two hours later and no longer had a leak making icebergs!

Removed top drawer from freezer. Unplugged the ice maker. Uncrewed the bottom screw. Loosened the two top screws. Removed old ice maker. Removed all the parts that didn't come with the new ice maker and installed on new ice maker. Reinstalled the new ice maker. Started making ice with no leaks in about 3 hours.

removed screws, pulled element out, and put new element in

There are 3 screws holding the icemaker in place. After removing the ice bucket, I removed the screws, then twisted the unit to gain access to the power plug. The plug is held in place by a plastic flap which is part of the connector. It has to be pushed down to remove the connector. The new unit went in perfectly and performed flawlessly for 3 days until the compressor blew out! After feeling some sense of accomplishment having fixed the icemaker, I learned that my neglecting to clean the vent grill in the front of the refrigerator had caused its demise. Don't forget to clean the dust out of the vents!

This was a very easy fix. I took the old ice maker out, including the electrical harness. Switched the harness and stop bar to the new ice maker on my bench, then installed the new assembly. Ice initially had some hollow cubes. I checked the ice maker for level. But it was fine. Thought it might be moving too fast. But it seems to have cleared up. Perhaps it took some time to completely cool down.

I disconnected power, turned off water supply, removed three hexhead screws, disconnected wiring harness plug, then reversed procedure. New icemaker seens to be a little slower in making cubes. However, the cubes are clean, perfect shape and THEY DO NOT CONTAIN ANY OF THE BLACK COATING AS THE OLD ICE MAKER CAUSED. THIS WAS A FAIRLY SIMPLE TASK.