NT21L6W Admiral Refrigerator - Instructions

Merely remove the front bottom screw that attached the ice maker to the refrigerator
Lift the ice maker gently off of the 2 top screws
Unplug the icemaker wiring harness from the back of the refrigerator, and remove
Snap off the end of the maker and remove the keeper for the wire arm
Remove the wire arm and install on new maker
Unplug the wiring harness from the old maker and plug into the new one
Plug the harness into the refrigerator, slip the new maker over the top screws, with the water feed tube inserted into the maker
Install bottom screw into the bracket that holds it in place.
This took less than 5 minutes.

****Make are you order Capacitor & Starter relay too (we ordered separtely so had to pay shipping twice)**** Super easy just open access panel on back near compressor and remove retention clip with fingers, remove & replace both capacitor & starter, put clip and access panel back on, plug in and allow 8 hours to cool! Works like new again! Hope it goes another 10 years

replacement was relative easy. The problem came with wire connector that had to be cut, stripped and crimped. The crimping was the dificult part. the connector was a problem to crimp.

Just kept working on it.

Disconncted power, pulled plug on disconnect, loosened 3 ice maker attach screws, removed ice maker. carefully removed old broken part, to understand reasembly. Reinstalled new water fill & bearing part.. hung icemaker and tightened attach screws. Reattached electrical plug.. turned on power, it all worked. .took about 45 min to remove, 15 min to reinstall. Right tools needed re disassembly AND ASSEMBLY

Repair done according to video and instructions. What you need to know is myself and my husband are adverse to all kinds of "simple" repairs because they never go well and we are not handyman kind of persons. This, I must say, was a delightful change in our typical experience of attempting to make our own repairs.
Thanks
Sandy

ordered a new shut-off valve. arrived in 5 days. installation had to wait a couple more day for i had to order a new compression nut. the reason i had to order a new nut was because the original nut was made of teflon and stripped easily when i tightened it to make a leak proof.joint. the new nut arrived in two days and was installed readily being that it was made of brass and consequently did not strip when i tightened to make a drip proof joint. finished in approximately twenty minutes' the video that this site has on the internet was of great value.

inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thick. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."

I have a Maytag Refridgerator with lower freezer and ice maker. Stopped making ice. Noticed the unit would fill up and freeze but the tray wouldn't rotate to drop the cubes into the tray. Cleared the frozen trays to see if it was just stuck but same thing happened. Replaced unit, not difficult with the exception that the top tray is ridiculously hard to get out. Never did do it, just worked around it. Working perfect now.

Removed the access panel on back of unit located the Run Capacitor on the compressor and removed the bad one and put the new one on and pugged refrigerator back in and it started up and works fine now

Like you video

Was told capacitor was problem 90% of the time.Capacior was not the problem.Bad start relay.

Remove bottom screw loosen 2 top screws unplug connector from back of icebox. Lift up and pull forward. Swap front cover full bucket stop bar and wire (plugs in) reinstall 10 minute job

the diagnosis was the most difficult step.. and trusting that the one visible nut was the only thing holding it on.. (there are 2 other clips that you need to use a little force on to detach). remove the ice maker (one nut, 2 clips, detach plug).. then remove the 3 screws holding on the 'face' , pry face off, you will see where the 'contact' has burned/melted/worn away. replace unit. 80% of the time, this is the problem (according to my research)

First had to remove baskets and door from freezer. Removed three screws; removed old ice maker; Attached new ice maker with three screws; removed arm from old ice maker and placed in the new ice maker. Replaced door and baskets