NR640 Admiral Refrigerator - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Michael from Colorado Springs, CO
- Parts Used:
- WPW10662129
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
freezer and refrigerator compartments not cold enough
Used the suggested problem list here to narrow down that the repair was most likely the run capacitor. Poped the new one in and I now have better control of my compartment ranges. I have a temperature gauge in each compartment. Check them every opening of the doors.
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- Customer:
- Barry from FORD CITY, PA
- Parts Used:
- WPW10662129
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Freezer occasionally had a temperature alarm.Clicking noise also.
Was told capacitor was problem 90% of the time.Capacior was not the problem.Bad start relay.
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- Customer:
- Jacqueline from LEXINGTON PK, MD
- Parts Used:
- WPW10662129
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
No cold
Like you video
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- Customer:
- Adam from GLOVERSVILLE, NY
- Parts Used:
- WPW10662129
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Plugged it in.
Not so good that was not the problem. Fan is not seized and all the lights work and display is not on but lights up as well. No start once plugged back in after 15 minutes of being unplugged. Nothing same no change.
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- Customer:
- Johnnie from Saginaw, MI
- Parts Used:
- WP61001846
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
unit would not freeze
I removed all covers then removed screws from element and disconnected wires and removed it.
when installing the new heater I payed close attention to the routing of thw wires to insure that the terminals were connected properly. I then replaced all covers and turned the frig on and in a couple of hour it was working great again
when installing the new heater I payed close attention to the routing of thw wires to insure that the terminals were connected properly. I then replaced all covers and turned the frig on and in a couple of hour it was working great again
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- Customer:
- David from Kalamazoo, MI
- Parts Used:
- WP61001846
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Freezer and Frig was not cooling down. The freezer side was all froze up on the coils.
Unplug the Frig and left the freezer side total defrost. Mine was so frozen up, it took about 6 hours with the door open. I had a towel in the botton to catch all the water and ice that fell.
Removed all the shelving units. There are 3 screws that hold the ice maker in place. Loosen the 2 screws above the ice maker about 3 or so turns. Then remove the screw under the ice maker completely. Then lift the ice maker off of the 2 screws that you just loosened. Then with a small flat blade screwdriver, push the plastic clip that holds the connector of wires that plug into the ice maker.
Then remove the screws that hold the back plastic cover that conseals the coil.
Now you should see the coils. There is one heater unit in the middle and one at the botton. There is a screw on each side of the heater unit that you need to take out. They are screwed into a metal bracket that is part of the coil system. Once the screws are removed, you simply remove the heater units. They are plugged in at the top of the coil system on a circuit board. Unplug them from there, (one of the spades connector was slightly bigger then the other, so I new where to plug them back in). Fish all the wire and heater untis out and you are ready to re-oinstall the new units.
Getting the wires back up through the coils was tricky, but I was able to do it.
The hardest thing was working inside the freezer unit. It is not very wide and was sometimes hard to get both hand inside to work.
Removed all the shelving units. There are 3 screws that hold the ice maker in place. Loosen the 2 screws above the ice maker about 3 or so turns. Then remove the screw under the ice maker completely. Then lift the ice maker off of the 2 screws that you just loosened. Then with a small flat blade screwdriver, push the plastic clip that holds the connector of wires that plug into the ice maker.
Then remove the screws that hold the back plastic cover that conseals the coil.
Now you should see the coils. There is one heater unit in the middle and one at the botton. There is a screw on each side of the heater unit that you need to take out. They are screwed into a metal bracket that is part of the coil system. Once the screws are removed, you simply remove the heater units. They are plugged in at the top of the coil system on a circuit board. Unplug them from there, (one of the spades connector was slightly bigger then the other, so I new where to plug them back in). Fish all the wire and heater untis out and you are ready to re-oinstall the new units.
Getting the wires back up through the coils was tricky, but I was able to do it.
The hardest thing was working inside the freezer unit. It is not very wide and was sometimes hard to get both hand inside to work.
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Hinge missing from acquired refrigerator
We got a refrigerator at a yard sale for free. The door was off and much of it disassembled. When we put it together we realized the top hinge was missing. We asked the previous owner and they didn't have it. We found it with your wonderful web site which so wonderfully detailed the parts.
It was a breeze to put it together and we got a refrigerator for about $30.
It was a breeze to put it together and we got a refrigerator for about $30.
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- Customer:
- chris from woodland hills, CA
- Parts Used:
- WPW10662129
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
you have to turn it off and on to run.
Just like the video showed me.It still does not work. Have to turn it off and on to make it start up.I also replaced thermostat in freezer. Does not work.
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- Customer:
- john from irvine, CA
- Parts Used:
- WP61001846
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
refrigator would cool properly
The most difficult part was determining what the problem was, was it the defrost timer, the themostat or the heater. Once I diagnosed the heater the ordering was easy. Installing it took about 30 minutes but waiting for the frig to cool to the point where the thermostat opened took a little longer than I thought. When I saw that orange glow from the heater I knew I saved myself a hundred buck.
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- Customer:
- clifford from dayton, OH
- Parts Used:
- WP61001846
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
small space to work in.
Removed all screws in rear panel & removed (this was easy) . unpluged heater wires & fished out not easy. Used string and 3/8" nut for weight, droped behind evaporator to pull elect wire from heater. ( this was not easy) replaced rear panel & all screws.
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- Customer:
- Ba from Van Nuys, CA
- Parts Used:
- WPW10662129
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Refrigerator stop cooling
I did remove the run capacitor of the starthing kit of compressor and another one new. It work fine.
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- Customer:
- sarah from dearborn, MI
- Parts Used:
- WPW10662129
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
Compressor having hard time kicking on
I simply watched the repair video and did it! Super easy, needed start device and capacitor. As easy as unplugging the old and adding the new. The video helped and gave me confidence. Wives can fix fridges too! Saved me $2500. Looks like I'll need a new excuse if I want a new fridge.
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- Customer:
- Adam from Randolph, ME
- Parts Used:
- WPW10662129
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers
Frig not cooling.
After plugging in the new relay to no avail. I replaced the thermostat. That fixed the problem.
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- Customer:
- Burton from Pecatonica, IL
- Parts Used:
- WPW10662129
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Heard a five second buzzing sound repeated 4 or 5 times per cycle coming from rear lower left compressor side.
Removed the six screws holding the bottom access plate found at the rear of the refrigerator. This gives you easy access to the run capacitor that has a retaining clip. Remove the wire clip and pull out the capacitor (it has two quick disconnect terminals). Reverse the process using the new run capacitor to complete the repair.
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- Customer:
- Lynn from Phoenix, AZ
- Parts Used:
- 12002087
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers
light socket in fridge corroded, kills light bulbs
The old light fixture and socket were easily removed. This was done with the power connected, but I already knew the switch didn't need to be handled. The solderless connectors are all insulated, so I just had to be careful. The new socket would not accept the connector for the "hot" (red) wire in the fridge, due to a design change. This is, of course, why you furnished a loose 3/16 inch crimpon connector. Rather than cutting the red wire (remember, the power is still connected), I obtained an insulated 3/16 connector of the opposite gender, and a short piece of red-insulated wire from an old fluorescent tube ballast, and made a jumper. The connector I provided (male) did not fit tightly in the original fridge connector, so I put a layer of resin-core solder on my male connector. You need tight connections. If the solder layer is too thick, it's easy to file down. Make sure to heat the solder sufficiently that the solidified solder is shiny and not dull gray. I used a 100-watt gun. 20 watts would probably work too. DO NOT USE ACID-CORE SOLDER OR FLUX ON ELECTRICAL WORK! I knew the switch was good, because I had checked for voltage at the socket terminals using my voltmeter, before I ordered the socket. It read 120 volts every time the door switch was open, and zero volts every time the door switch was pushed closed. A simple voltage tester would work here, too. Be very careful if you do this test or this repair with the power connected to the fridge; there is considerable potential to find yourself touching 120 volts with one hand while your other hand is touching a perfect "ground". There doesn't seem to be any choice if you want to test the switch. You do have a choice with the socket replacement - - the jumper described above. If you're not going to use the jumper approach, cut the power! If you are going to make a jumper and are not comfortable working on a "live" circuit, cut the power.
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