DNS24H9W Admiral Refrigerator - Instructions

although this piece s white, my refrigerator had clear plastic guides - both work OK. Remove meat drawer, remove glass shelf from refrigerator. Glass shelf is attached to metal frame by two clips at rear of shelf. Before removing, notice how the clips are fastened to the chrome trim so replacement will be easier. Remove clips with fingers. Glass shelf will then swing up and away from metal frame, allowing easy removal of drawer guide(s). Remove broken guide and replace with new. Lower the glass and re-attach metal clips. Replace metal shelf in refrigerator and re-insert drawer. That's it.

I removed the drawer, and removed the shelf and both rails. In the back were 2 clips to secure the shelf to the frame and stabilize the rails. Then I could move the glass shelf and access the broken rail and replace it with the beautiful new one. I feel like I Have a new fridge! I found the part on line even though I could not find the plate with the model number or year!

I unboxed the new drawers, measured and cut some 1/8 plexiglass strips to fit. I then glued the strips on the inside of both drawers to strenghten. The original and replacement drawers lack strength at the corners and crack. This was the third set I have replaced. Should not happen again.

Ordered the leveling bolts, very fast shipping, parts correct as shown. Purchased a condo by the shore, frige had no levelers, they went in smoothly & was done in no time.
Steve

took old socket out, ordered replacement part, dual socket no longer available. Turn off power to appliance, attach new single light socket, screw light socket and light socket holder back into place. Turned on power and it worked. No instructions included in packet, attached wrong first time, blew fuse, attached socket a different way, and it worked.

pulled out old socket and replaced supposed to be a duel socket but no longer exists

replacement was relative easy. The problem came with wire connector that had to be cut, stripped and crimped. The crimping was the dificult part. the connector was a problem to crimp.

I tilted the unit back enough to scew the new legs into the threaded holes.

Took out the old drawer and slid the new one

I called a local appliance store in town to get a replacement shelf.They did call me back and stated they could not find anything. I found this web site and (had my husband re-measure the size) ordered it on line. I received it in 3 days, and would strongly recommend this web site to anyone.

Simply inserted the shelf. So easy to find just what we needed from the website. We really got great service and the shelf arrived in three days. Thanks so much.

Screw bulb in and place cover over bulb.

The old light fixture and socket were easily removed. This was done with the power connected, but I already knew the switch didn't need to be handled. The solderless connectors are all insulated, so I just had to be careful. The new socket would not accept the connector for the "hot" (red) wire in the fridge, due to a design change. This is, of course, why you furnished a loose 3/16 inch crimpon connector. Rather than cutting the red wire (remember, the power is still connected), I obtained an insulated 3/16 connector of the opposite gender, and a short piece of red-insulated wire from an old fluorescent tube ballast, and made a jumper. The connector I provided (male) did not fit tightly in the original fridge connector, so I put a layer of resin-core solder on my male connector. You need tight connections. If the solder layer is too thick, it's easy to file down. Make sure to heat the solder sufficiently that the solidified solder is shiny and not dull gray. I used a 100-watt gun. 20 watts would probably work too. DO NOT USE ACID-CORE SOLDER OR FLUX ON ELECTRICAL WORK! I knew the switch was good, because I had checked for voltage at the socket terminals using my voltmeter, before I ordered the socket. It read 120 volts every time the door switch was open, and zero volts every time the door switch was pushed closed. A simple voltage tester would work here, too. Be very careful if you do this test or this repair with the power connected to the fridge; there is considerable potential to find yourself touching 120 volts with one hand while your other hand is touching a perfect "ground". There doesn't seem to be any choice if you want to test the switch. You do have a choice with the socket replacement - - the jumper described above. If you're not going to use the jumper approach, cut the power! If you are going to make a jumper and are not comfortable working on a "live" circuit, cut the power.